PIK VLADIVOSTOK (4257 m) from Pereval Tsentralny via southeast wall, cat. III, 5A — first ascent Ascent leader — Sharadin V.I. Team members:

• Timofeev V.N.
• Merkovich V.B.
• Lebedev G.I.
• Baranov V.A.
• Prokopovich S.K.

PIK GEOLOGOV 3B DIFFICULTY LEVEL

FROM THE SOUTHEAST Peak Geologov is located in the Maykura area at the junction of three ridges. It is at the end of the Maykura glacier above the mine and is clearly visible from there. The height is about 4200 m. Approach: You need to drive by car to the end of the road. Then, after walking for 15-20 minutes across the moraine, we reach the snow-ice slopes of the glacier and approach the beginning of the steep ascent to the ridge leading from the summit. We camp on the glacier. The time taken for the approach is 1.5-2 hours. From the campsite, we ascend to the ridge via any snowy gap in the rocks and move to the right to reach the summit. From the last gendarme on the ridge, the start of the route is clearly visible, beginning with an ascent to the western spur of the ridge. Section R1: We approach the start of a clearly visible steep ledge traversing the ridge from right to left via a snowy slope (possibly icy in autumn). The length of this section is 150 m, with a steepness of 20°. Tie in before reaching the rocks and bergschrund. Section R2: Ascend to the ledge, which does not reach the snow, and move to the right onto the rocks from its beginning. We circumvent a patch of snow (4-5 m) above via the ledge with a steepness of 55-60° and a width of 50-60 cm, and reach the first belay point (60 m) on a good platform. The protection is via pitons (1-2) and rock features. The rocks are of moderate difficulty. Section R3: Move directly along the ridge, veering to the right, to reach a connecting ridge under the start of a clearly visible negative wall on the ridge. The movement is alternating, with protection via rock features, and the length is 60 m.

Ascent to the summit — DVUZUBKA from the Ivizak peak — 1B category of difficulty. The ascent to the summit is made from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, located under the Bivachnaya peak. From the camp, you should:

• go up along the Igizak River
• first along grassy slopes and scree
• then, after 40–50 minutes of movement, cross to the left bank of the river
• begin the ascent up the steep western slope of the valley The slope has rock outcrops. Further ascent on snow leads to the Big Igizak cirque and the Dvuzybka on the plateau. Between the peaks of Bolshoy Igizak and Dvuzybka, there is an unnamed peak. The ascent to Dvuzybka should be made from the saddle between the unnamed peak (Dvuzybka pass). The exit to the pass is on snow. From the pass:
• to the right along the scree,
• then along easy rocks, ascend along the ridge. Then the ridge narrows, and small walls up to 2 m appear. Insurance is simultaneous. Before the summit, you should descend into a shallow depression to the right along a ledge, as the ridge has steep walls to the left. The ascent to the summit from the saddle is 5 m along moderately difficult rocks.

Route Description

First Ascent of Peak Yastreb (Takob district of the Gissar Ridge) Dushanbe. 1963

Description of the Peak and its Location

Peak Yastreb is located in one of the southern mountain spurs of the Gissar Ridge system, known as the Sanginavishta mountains. The most convenient approaches to the peak are from the tributaries of the Takob River — Taykutal and Drishint.

• Taykutal
• Drishint Peak Yastreb is the highest peak in the Takob district. Its height is approximately 4300 m. The peak rises sharply among the surrounding peaks and has a characteristic silhouette with very steep rocky slopes and a double summit, which is why the local population calls it "Dushokha," meaning "two-horned."

5.2

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical ascent
2. Ascent area — PAMIR-ALAI, HISSAR RANGE
3. Ascent route — ZAMIN KAROR EASTERN-II 4554 m, from the north via the edge
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1204 m, average steepness 59°, length of complex sections — 830 m.
5. Hooks used: rock — 123, ice — 11, bolt — 0
6. Total hours on the route — 25.3 hours
7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — 2 bivouacs
8. Team name: team from Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society

"... I felt offended that someone had been here before me, and at the same time I was proud of the human mind and will. From here, he had already conquered the mountains..." N. V. KRYLENKO "On unexplored Pamir"

Zamin Karor

Climbing history of the area

From V. Stukhin's report, 1976 Diagram # 3 Photo # 1. X — pass Tsentralny

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Gissar Ridge
3. Peak — Zamin Karor (Eastern) 4767 m, via the northwestern wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1065 m; b) length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1228 m; c) average steepness — 65°.
6. Number of pitons:

5. Assault team and observation group composition. | # | Full Name | Year of Birth | Sports Rank | Responsibilities and Participation in Events | | :-: | :------------------- | :-----------: | :---------: | :------------------------------------------- | | 1. | Lapshin L. L. | 1943 | MS | Team Captain and Coach | | 2. | Lavrukhin V. I. | 1948 | CMS | Deputy Captain | | 3. | Tkachev V. K. | 1937 | MS | Participant | | 4. | Korzhavin A. P. | 1939 | CMS | Participant | | 5. | Kim T. | 1947 | CMS | Did not participate | | 6. | Filipov A. K. | 1947 | CMS | Did not participate | Observation Group:

1. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alay
3. Peak, its height, and route — Zamin-Karor, East peak 4767 m, from the north through the central part of the black triangle, first ascent.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 6th cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference: 1452 m. Length of sections:
   • RII – 465 m
   • RIII – 275 m