Climbing Passport

Appendix I

1. Climbing type — rock.
2. Climbing area: spurs of the main Caucasian ridge from Chiperazau pass to Kitlod pass.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: Termen-bashi — 4050 m via the northern counterfort.
4. Expected difficulty category — 3–4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m average steepness — 50° length of sections:

Report on the Second Ascent

Dulnev's Route, Tyutyu 2nd Western peak via the left part of the South face of the South ridge. Assumed 5B category of difficulty. Multidisciplinary Mountaineering Club "FREELINE", Pyatigorsk.

Passport

1. Class: technical.
2. Central Caucasus, Kullumkol gorge.
3. Tyutyu 2nd West via the left part of the South face of the South ridge, 4420 m.
4. Assumed 5B category of difficulty, second ascent.
5. Height difference: 920 m, length — 1100 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, NW spurs of Adyr ridge, north of South Sabalyk glacier, from Adyrsu gorge side.
3. Peak 3800 m, from Southeast, first ascent.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 1B.
5. Elevation gain of the route 400 m.
6. Pitons used 1/0.
7. Number of climbing hours — 7 h.
8. No overnight stays on the route. Bivouac on South Sabalyk glacier moraine.
9. Leader Kiselev Nikolai Petrovich, Candidate Master of Sports.

44. Maly Donguzorun from the south (route 1Б category). From the "Baksan" alp camp along the highway up the Baksan valley. Before reaching the "Itkol" hotel, cross the bridge over the Baksan river below the confluence of the Donguzorun river, and also over the Donguzorun. Then move along the gorge path, which goes through a beautiful dense forest almost without ascent along the right bank of the Donguzorun; further, the path rises sharply, exits the forest and leads to the Donguzorunkel lakes. From the second lake:

• along the right bank of the river flowing into it, go to the right-bank moraine of the Nameless glacier, lying under the southern slopes of the Maly Donguzorun peak;
• then ascend the moraine and at its end, turning right, descend to the talus couloir descending from the East ridge, to the right of a small snowy slope of Maly Donguzorun (from the second Donguzorunkel lake — 1.5–2 hours);
• on the right or left side of the couloir (rockfalls go along the couloir!) ascent to the talus,

DESCRIPTION

First ascent of the northeast ridge of Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak of cat. diff.

by the group of instructors from "BAXAN" alpine camp on September 15-18, 1958

Caucasus Sylan gorge

Brief characteristics of SYL-TRAN-KEL-BOSHI peak.

Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak (3,806 m) is located in the watershed ridge running east from Elbrus. It separates the Su-Boshi valley from the Irik-Chat valley. The following peaks are located west of Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak in this ridge:

• Mukol
• Kagem
• Irik-Chat to the south of Kuby-Santyg. The path to Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak starts from Verkhniy Baksan settlement.

Ascent Record

(Nesendag from Vakhchag Pass, Category 1B difficulty)

1. Type of Ascent Combined
2. Ascent Area 2.9. Eastern Caucasus
3. Peak, its Height, and Route Nesendag (3925 m), from Vakhchag Pass
4. Anticipated Difficulty Category 1B

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Winter category.
2. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Nukatly ridge.
3. Nukatly South-West, 3776 m, via West Nukatly Pass, combined route.
4. Category 1B difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 550 m, average steepness — 30°, length — 1100 m, sections of category 1 difficulty — 500 m, category 2 — 450 m, category 3 — 150 m.
6. Pitons were not used, protection through rock formations.
7. Climbing hours — 3.
8. Overnight stay in the upper reaches of the Maradukal River below West Nukatly Pass (3100 m).
9. Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich — Candidate Master of Sports.

Ascent Passport.

1. Winter category.
2. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Temir-otrog ridge, Nukatl ridge.
3. Temirgokh, 3926, via the right part of the Southeast slope, combined route.
4. 2A category difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, average steepness 30°, 1st category difficulty - 650 m, 2nd category difficulty - 550 m, 3rd category difficulty - 650 m, 4th category difficulty - 40 m.
6. Pitons were not used.
7. Climbing time - 4 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route. Overnight stay in a hut (2350 m) in the Temiror valley.
9. Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich - CMS

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area
2. Ascent class
3. Peak, its height
4. Ascent route
5. Estimated difficulty category
6. Route characteristics
7. Pitons driven:
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics
9. Surname of the leader and participants, their qualifications

2.4.1748

I. DESCRIPTION OF THE TRAVERSE OF THE PEAKS PIK KILAR "FIZKULTURNIC STALIN" - KAYARTA-BASHI 3A cat. diff. The first ascent of the route was made on May 14, 1961, by a group of climbers from Tyrnyauz, consisting of:

1. Shamaev I.A. - leader
2. Fatakhov Kh.A.
3. Drobot S.Yu. The group assessed the route to Pik Kilar from the North Karata-Mu glacier (via the "Shakhtyor" pass) as 1B cat. diff.

Route Description

Day 1 - approach. From Tyrnyauz, ascend the gorge to the fork of the Sakashil-Su and Kayarta-Su rivers; before descending to the suspension bridge over the Kayarta-Su, turn right-up along a well-developed pack trail - into the Kayarta-Su gorge. After 0.5 hours and 40 minutes of walking, the trail leads to a small clearing with tall grass and a large stone, and soon exits to meadows near the summer pastures. From the clearing, another 200-300 meters of trail goes through the forest, then exits to meadows, onto a small grassy ridge (with an irrigation ditch along it). Further along the trail, along a stream, through meadows, ascending low grassy hills, we approach the river. Passing small clearings with a stream, we ascend along the cliff above the riverbank and exit to the point where the gorge turns. The gorge turns almost 90° to the left (southeast). Before reaching the river bend, at the beginning of a steep, overgrown with rhododendrons cape on the opposite bank, cross the river where a convenient ascent to the cape is visible. Ascending to the cape, the trail goes along a wide terrace along the high, steep riverbank. Overcoming a small stony ridge, we descend to a large grassy area with a stream.