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Route Description: центру В стены
Ascent record of Sergei Kolobaev's team via the East Face of Pik Engels (6510 m) in the Pamir Mountains in 1984, rated as Grade 6 difficulty.
PASSPORT
I. High-altitude class 2. South-West Pamir 3. Peak Engels 6510 m via the Center of the eastern wall 4. Difficulty category — 6 5. Elevation gain: 1410 m, wall length 900 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 530 m, average steepness of the wall — 70°. 6. Pitons hammered:
| rock | bolt | chocks | ice |
|---|---|---|---|
| 90/18 | 1/8 | 82/21 | 18 |
Route Description: ледовым каскадам СЗ стены
First ascent to the summit of Corona (4810 m) via NW wall, diff. cat. 6A, 1210 m height difference, 5 days, 42 hours of travel time.
Passport
Climbing category — winter I. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range
- Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via NW wall ice cascades, category I route. Presumed difficulty cat. — 6A, first ascent, combined. Height difference: 1210 m, length — 1400 m. Length of 5th — 6th difficulty sections — 980 m. Average slope — 63°. Pitons driven: | rock | chocks | ice | | :--: | :----: | :-: | | 87⁄52 | 37⁄75 | 55⁄0 |
- Climbing hours: 42 h, days — 5
Route Description: центру С стены
Description of the ascent made by a team of climbers to Peak Svobodnoy Korei (4740 m) via the center of the North Face in Tian Shan in 1991, category of difficulty 6A.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — technical
- Ascent region — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge
- Pik Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m, via the Center of the North Face
- Difficulty category — 6A
- Height difference — 740 m, length — 890 m, length of sections with 5th diff. cat. — 490 m, 6th diff. cat. — 330 m. Average steepness of the main part — 71°
- Pitons hammered:
- rock — 35/20
- bolt — 18/13
- chocks — 57/28
Route Description: С стене
Ascent to Peak Svobodnaya Korea (4777 m) via the north wall along the route of category 6B complexity, climbed by a team from the Krasnoyarsk Kraisport Committee in February 1995.
I. Technical Class
- Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range
- Pik Svobodnaya Korea, 4777 m, via North Face (Semiletkin's route)
- Difficulty category 6B
- Elevation gain 677 m, length 1060 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 67°, including 6B category difficulty at 85° (4320 m – 4570 m)
- Pitons used: rock 142/74, bolted pitons 104/40, ice screws 44/2
- Climbing hours 48, days 7 (including preparation)
- Overnight stays: five nights in a tent on a platform
- Team leader: Balyezin Valery Viktorovich, International Master of Sports Team members:
Route Description: В кф.
Description of the first ascent of peak 4107 m in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range along the eastern spur, grade 2B, rock climbing route.
Ascent Passport
on p. 4 I 07 m. First Ascent. I. Climbing category — first ascent 2. Ascent area — Kyrgyz range, Golubina lake area 3. Summit p. 4 I 07 m. via E. counterfort, route character — rock 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 570 m, length of sections 2–3 cat. diff. — 145 m, average steepness — 47° 6. Pitons driven: rock — 8, ice — 0 7. Number of walking hours — 8 h 8. Number of overnight stays — none 9. Leader — Getman I.S. MS Participants:
- Kuznetsova T.A. P sport.
Climbing Peak Shokal'skogo via the North-East Face, Inyl'chek Range, with a detailed analysis of the route's tactics and technical details, Category 6 complexity.
Passport
- Class of high-altitude technical ascents
- Inylchek Ridge
- Peak Shokal'skogo via the northeast wall
- Complexity category — 6
- Height difference — 1172 m. Total route length — 1362 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 824 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 71°
- Pitons hammered: | 135 | 4 | 109 | 53 | | :-- | :- | :-- | :-- | | 46 | 4 | 41 | 0 |
Route Description: С гребню, траверс
Description of the traverse of the Karlytau Peak and Marble Wall Peak summits in the Central Tian Shan, made by the team of the Central Sports Club of the Ministry of Defense of the Republic of Kazakhstan in 2001 via a new route of category 5B complexity.
Ascent Passport
- Central Tian Shan, Sarydzhan range, Marble Wall glacier.
- Traverse of peaks Karlytau (5450 m) – Marble Wall (6400 m) from Marble Wall glacier, first ascent.
- Submitted – 5B cat. diff. (tentative).
- Route character — combined.
- Route height difference — 2030 m.
Route length – 4316 m.
Length of sections: V cat. diff. – 2500 m, VI cat. diff. – 300 m.
Average steepness:
- main part of the route (sections?) – 70°
Route Description: С гребню
Report on the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Khan Tengri Peak (6995 m) via the North Ridge, category 5B difficulty.
Russian Alpinism Championship
High-altitude climbing category
Report on the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Khan Tengri, 6995 m via the North Ridge, 5B category of difficulty
team captain team coaches
- V. A. Arkhipov
- N. N. Zakharov
- V. V. Balezin
- G. Krasnoyarsk
2005
Route Description: центру В стены
Description of the first ascent via the center of the East Face of Khan-Tengri peak in Tian Shan with a detailed description of the team's technical actions and route characteristics.
Passport
- High-altitude class
- Tian-Shan, South Inylchek Glacier
- Khan-Tengri peak, via the center of the East Face
- Assumed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
- Elevation gain — 2000 m, route length — 2420 m Length of sections with 5–6B category of difficulty — 1340 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 67° (5000–6700 m). Including:
- 80° (80 m)
- 85° (140 m)
- 90° (80 m)
Route Description: правой части В стены
Ascent to the summit of Sugan-Bashi via the North-Eastern wall, 6A category of difficulty in winter conditions.
Ascent Passport
- Climbing category: winter.
- Climbing area: Caucasus, Sugan Range.
- Peak, route: Sugan-Bashi (4450 m), via the North-Eastern wall.
- Complexity category: 6A.
- Height difference:
- including the actual wall part — 1060 m (excluding the ice fall)
- sections with a steepness of 90° and above — 270 m
- total route length — 1270 m