Fig. 22

1. Ascent to the summit of Zub Sofruju — category 2B (Fig. 22)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, cross the bridge over the Alibek River and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakaysky couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend 300 m up. Then, move left into the Sofrujinsky couloir (prone to rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya Polyana (Bear Glade). From Medvezhya Polyana, initially follow alpine meadows (trail), then snow, and after 300–350 m, move left of the eastern slopes of Belalakaya to reach the Sofrujinsky bivouac. The journey from Dombayskaya Polyana takes 5–6 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams!), descend to the Sofrujinsky Glacier, traverse between the upper and lower icefalls, and reach the base of the summit massif. Ascend the steep (50–55°) snow slope (partially rocky), reach the ridge, and follow it to a snow saddle. Continue along the snowy ridge to a wall. In the second half of summer, ice is present on this section — crampons and ice axes are required. The ridge is sharp (belay required!).

• Ascend the 18–20-meter wall (2 pitons!)
• Continue along the broken ridge to a steep ascent

Gvandra Tsentralnaya from the saddle from Glavnaya, combined, 1B

Route Description

The ascent to the upper plateau of Gvandra is described in the route "Gvandra Vostochnaya from the saddle from Gvandra Tsentralnaya peak". On the plateau, go left - to the saddle between Glavnaya (left) and Tsentralnaya (right) peaks of Gvandra. Ascend to the saddle via a snowy slope closer to Glavnaya peak. In the lower part, the slope is cut by a bergschrund - pass via a bridge or a gap with ice blocks (belay!). The ascent from the saddle to Glavnaya peak coincides with the description of the route "Gvandra Tsentralnaya - Glavnaya" for this section of the path. From the point of reaching the plateau to the summit - 3 hours. Descent from the summit to the bivouac takes at least 3.5 hours. If you go along the ridge to the right from the saddle, it will be the beginning of the route to Tsentralnaya peak. Behind the snowy saddle, a rocky ridge begins. Bypass its ruined rocks on the right. Behind the rocks, traverse the snowy slope and, to the right of the main ridge, via a couloir, reach below a 10-meter wall. If there are no cornices on the left on this section of the ridge, move along the ridge without entering the couloir. Having overcome the 10-meter wall (50°), reach Tsentralnaya peak via simple ruined rocks.

M22. Gvandra Main — East

(combined route, cat. difficulty) See routes M14, M16, M18 — M20.

• when moving from the Central summit, pass the gap in the upper part of the ice couloir descending into it;
• when descending from the East summit, be careful, especially in bad weather, — one can end up on a slope that descends from the pre-summit to the right, which is very similar in its character to the correct slope leading towards Ak-Tyube pass. The false slope ends in ice-serac falls!
• departure time from Myrdy bivouac — at 2–3 a.m.;
• it takes 12–14 hours to complete the route;
• the traverse can be planned with an intermediate bivouac on the Gvandra ridge.

Gvandra Centralnaya - Glavnaya, 2A

Route description:

The path to the saddle between the Eastern and Central peaks is described in route M1 6. From the saddle, turn left and, having overcome a small gendarme "head-on", reach the "saw" - a heavily jagged rock ridge. Bypass the "saw" on the left along shelves and small walls. Then, along a 200-meter snowy ridge, reach the "dome". From the "dome", descend to the left to a steep snow-ice couloir. Cross it below the ridge line (belay!). In low-snow conditions, a wide crevasse appears in the upper part of the couloir, extending to the top of the ridge. To cross the couloir, it is necessary to descend to the bottom of the crevasse and ascend the ice wall on its opposite side. Beyond the couloir, ascend a simple scree ridge to the Central peak. From the saddle - 4 hours. From the Central peak, descend a 10-meter wall to a saddle leading to Gvandra Glavnaya. Then, bypass the ridge cornices via couloir R4. If there are no cornices, do not enter the couloir, but move along the ridge up to R6. From here, along a 150-meter section of simple rocks to the left of the ridge, reach a snowy saddle. From the saddle, ascend to the Main peak along a narrow, turning into a sharp, snowy ridge with a steep rise (belay!). To the right are huge cornices, to the left are steeply falling snowy slopes. From the Central peak - 2 hours. The descent from the peak to the saddle is via the ascent route. Then, down to the right along a steep snowy slope with a bergschrund at the bottom to the snowy fields of the upper Gvandra plateau. Walk across the plateau under the slopes of the Central peak in the direction of the saddle and then descend along the ascent route towards the Lozhny Myrd y pass. From the Main peak to the bivouac - 3 hours.

• departure time from the Myrd y bivouac should be no later than 4 am.

Dalar Uzunkol — description of the 4A climbing route from SK Greta

Approach via the Zapadny Dalar glacier to the slopes of the Dalar pass. Ascend to the pass along a snowy slope (35–45°) with a bergschrund, which is overcome via a bridge or ravine. On the pass, under the rock outcrops of the Kirpich summit ridge, is a bivouac site. From the pass, descend south, then along ledges and slopes, bypass the southern counterfort of Maly Dalar. Along snowy slopes, ascend under the rocks leading to the saddle between Maly Dalar on the left and Dalar on the right. Ascent to the saddle:

• Initially, it goes along small ledges, then along an internal angle with a stop R1.

Dalar via Northwest ridge, peak Shokoladny, combined, cat. 4B

Route description:

From the bivouac, traverse the plateau to reach the foot of peak Shokoladny. Ascend the snow and scree slopes, transitioning to broken rocks in the upper section, to reach the peak (category 2A difficulty). The ascent from the bivouac takes approximately 1.5 hours. From the peak's summit, descend steep rocks to the left and downwards, circumventing the first drop of the ridge via chimneys and internal corners. From the second drop of the ridge, perform a rappel to a narrow saddle adjacent to the "Palets" gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the left, then rappel leftwards to a ledge and follow it to regain the ridge. Subsequently, descend 25 meters down steep rocks and perform another rappel down an overhanging wall. The broken rocks lead to a saddle between peak Shokoladny and Dalar. Bivouac sites are available on the left, beneath the overhangs. The descent from the peak's summit takes around 2 hours. From the saddle, traverse rightwards along ledges that cut through Dalar's western wall, eventually leading to the main ridge beneath the summit tower. The ledges vary in width and have a general inclination to the right. From R8, a narrow cleft ascends upwards, culminating in a ledge beneath a couloir with a waterfall. Ascend via the couloir-chimney and a series of ledges (R10), overcoming a gendarme on the ridge "head-on," to reach a snowy and icy ascent leading to the junction of the north-eastern and north-western walls of the summit tower. From R13 (end of the ascent), a series of ledges traverse along the wall to R16 (avoid the edge of the ledges due to loose rocks!). From the upper ledge, ascend a narrow crevice to a vertical wall (R17–R19), then again via a crevice to reach a gap in the summit ridge (R21).

North-West and Central Federal Districts Alpine Championship. Technical Altitude Class. 2024

Report on the Ascent of Dalar Peak (3988 m) via the Eastern Ridge (V. Kavunenko Route, 1964), Category 5A, Combined Terrain

The route was completed by the team from the Alpine Club of St. Petersburg, under the auspices of the "OGK" (St. Petersburg). Team Captain: A.V. Kichurchak.

Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Andrey Vladimirovich Kichurchak, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Elena Vadimovna Aleksandrova, 1st sports rank
1.3	Full Name of Coach, Sports Rank	D.M. Kiselev, Candidate Master of Sports
1.4	Organization	St. Petersburg Alpine Federation, "OGK" Alpine Club

North-West and Central Federal Districts Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Technical Class 2024. Report on the Ascent to Mt. Dalar via the East Ridge (Kavunenko Route, 1964) 5A Category of Complexity.

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Strizhko Yulia Gennadyevna, 2nd sports rank.
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Radkova Maria Alekseyevna, 2nd sports rank. Rodyukov Oleg Yuryevich, 2nd sports rank.

For the championship of the Central Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society in the category of technically complex ascents.

DALAR PEAK

via the western wall

Team of the Spartak CS DSS Alpine Camp "Uzunkol"

Korablin B. N.	— team leader
Belyaev Yu. S.	— deputy team leader
Korshunov D. M.	— team member
Paunksnis R. A.	— team member

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope: