Russian Mountaineering Federation

Team Report

MAGNITOGORSK MOUNTAINEERING CLUB FIRST ASCENT ON PIK MAGNITKA, APPROX. 5A CAT.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area – 5.3.3 Pamiro-Alai;
2. Object of ascent – Pik Magnitka, via SW ridge, 4477 m;
3. Category of difficulty 5A;
4. Route type – rock;
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 957 m;

Б­.­краса­ви­ца

Passport

1. Ice class
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Snezhnaya via the northwestern wall.
4. Proposed category 3B (first ascent).
5. Elevation gain 500 m. Length 750 m.
6. Ice screws 26 pcs.
7. Moving time 12 hours from base camp to base camp.
8. Overnight stay not required.
9. Leader Kirikov A.

V. Snezhnaya 3. North ridge couloir Drakin A.V. Altai. May 4, 1992

Passport

1. Class: snow-ice.
2. Altai: Severo-Chuysky ridge, Akturu gorge.
3. V. Snezhnaya via the western couloir of the north ridge.
4. Proposed category 2B first ascent.

As­cent cer­ti­fi­cate №1 Re­gion — Re­pub­lic of Al­tai, Se­ver­no-Chuйsky ridge Moun­tain — Snezhnaya 3800 m via the cen­ter of the north­west slope Sup­posed — CA cat. dif., first as­cent. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route — ice and snow. 5. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route: dif­fe­rence in height of the main part 540 m, length of the route — 870 m. Length of sec­tions 4 cat. dif. — 340 m, 3 cat. dif. — 360 m, 2 cat. dif. — 170 m. Av­er­age steep­ness of the main part — 45° 6. Used on the route: ice screws — 80 7. Num­ber of mov­ing hours — 7, days — 1. 8. Leader: Iv­liev An­drey Vla­di­mi­ro­vich 1st sports rank

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF NOVOSIBIRSK REGION

Report

On the ascent of the team from Novosibirsk

to the summit Snezhnaia 3800 m via the center of the northwestern slope. Presumably 4A cat. diff. First ascent. Leader: Ivliev Andrei Vladimirovich Participants:

• Kulishova Alena Maratovna
• Pintsov Anton Nikolaevich
• Khudiakov Roman Konstantinovich

PASSPORT

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Region — Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge.
3. Peak Snezhnyaya (3800 m), via ice couloir on S wall, ice and snow route.
4. Anticipated difficulty category — 5A–5B (winter), first ascent.
5. Height difference: 1100 m. Wall height difference — 800 m. Length: 1700 m. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 655 m. Average steepness of the wall — 56° (2700–3500 m).

The summit of Spasatel via the northwestern slope through the "pillow" of Spasatel Barnov S.I. Altai, Severo-Chuyskiy Ridge, 1.2

Passport

1. Category: first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuyskiy Ridge, Karakabak gorge, 1.2
3. Spasatel peak, via the northwestern slope through the "pillow" of Spasatel, ice-snow.
4. Proposed — category 3B, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 420 m; length — 730 m. Length of sections with category V difficulty — 10–15 m. Average steepness of the route — 30–35°.

Passport

1. Class — first ascent.
2. Altai. Severo-Chuysky ridge, Maashey gorge, left glacial couloir of the northern slope.
3. Proposed name — Pik Sporny (3362 m).
4. Presumably — 3A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain — 700 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 40°.
6. Ice screws were used on the route.
7. Team's walking hours — 9.
8. Nights stayed — none.
9. Team members:

V. Stazhеров peak from Znachkistov pass, 2A cat.

From the camp, move up towards the Big Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash, following the riverbed, to large rocky "ram's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree. Further, move along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazhеров peak. On the moraine ridge, there is a glaciologists' camp, and behind the ridge, there is a lake. It takes 3–3.5 hours to walk from the camp. It is a convenient place for an overnight stay. From the moraine lake, move up towards Znachkistov pass. The ascent goes first along the scree, then along the snowy slope. Time — 1.5–2 hours.