Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR Climbing Championship 1971. Category I ascent details: 2. Region of ascent: 3. Route of ascent: high-altitude and technical. Central Pamir. eastern wall of Peak Kommunizm with further traverse of the massif. 4. Characteristics of ascent: height difference 1750 m, average slope 65°–70°, length of difficult sections 1500 m. 5. Number of pitons: rock — 188; ice — 38; bolt 6. Number of climbing hours: 74.5 h.

South-West Pamir, Shugnan Ridge, Peak 5190, ascent via North-Eastern wall. Climbing Report. USSR Climbing Championship. Technical Climbing Class. GENERAL VIEW OF PEAK 5190 /SHUGNAN RIDGE/ UPPER BASTION

The Peak of Courage

Transfigured by the last rays of the sun, the Trans-Ili Alatau mountains become a fantastical sight… The departing sun's final beams slide along the ridge, painting the ice- and snow-capped peaks a fiery red. As the light fades, one peak remains aglow like a torch against the darkening sky: Pik Komsomola. Mountains, like people, have their own biographies. Little is known about unconquered peaks beyond their altitude, while others have inspired poetic legends. Pik Komsomola belongs to the latter category of majestic mountains with an intriguing history. The people of Almaty had attempted to conquer Pik Komsomola, looming above their city, on multiple occasions, only to be forced to retreat each time. With each failure, the peak's reputation grew, and legends about its inaccessibility were born. Thirty-seven years ago, T. Beloglazov, I. Mysovskiy, and V. Gorbunov successfully ascended Maloalmatinskiy peak (now known as Pik Komsomola). This inaugural ascent is considered the birthdate of high-altitude mountaineering in Kazakhstan. In the summer of 1935, on the initiative of the capital's Komsomol organization, a mass Komsomol alpinada was organized to conquer Maloalmatinskiy peak[^1]. In a single day, 250 participants reached the summit. The public highly praised the mountaineers' feat. The Presidium of the Kazakh Central Executive Committee issued a special decree: "The Kazakh Central Executive Committee notes the brilliant victory of the Almaty Komsomol members, who, in honor of the 15th anniversary of the Kazakh SSR, conquered Maloalmatinskiy peak in a group of 250. Such an ascent has occurred for the first time in the history of mass mountaineering." The Kazakh Central Executive Committee expressed gratitude to all participants and hoped that each of them would become an organizer of mass mountain conquests. The Presidium of the Kazakh Central Executive Committee decreed:

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau.
3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their heights: Southwest wall of Peak Yuzhny Talgar — 5000 m.
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • elevation gain 1000 m
   • average steepness 65°
   • length of complex sections 650 m.
5. Number of pitons hammered in — 68.

Photo MII General photo of the summit —

• team route
• route via N.face, 5A cat. diff.
• route via N.W. face
• traverse 5Е cat. diff.
• δ — control tower
• (○) — overnight locations The photo was taken on July 13, 1964, at 7°0, lens "Industar" 26 M, F=5 cm, distance to the summit 2 km, point M2, 3650 m.

Photo 1. Its profile — the western wall of the 5th Koronna tower (view from the Izyiskatel summit, 1966, after bad weather)

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Jacques Balmat

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Central Tien Shan, western Kok-Shaal-Tau.
3. Peak 4850 "Verny" via the NW buttress of the wall.
4. Proposed: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 916 m, length — 1028 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 478 m, of which 6 category of difficulty — 112 m, average steepness: main part of the route 71° (3934–4594), of which 6 category of difficulty 83° (4006–4266).
6. Pitons driven: | Category | Driven | Left | | :--------- | :----- | :---- | | Rock | 53 | 13 |

Climbing Report for the USSR Alpine Climbing Championship

1. Climbing category — High-altitude.
2. Climbing area — North Inylchek Glacier, Central Tien Shan.
3. Climbing route — North slope of Khan-Tengri 6995 m, Kuzmin's route, 6B category of difficulty.
4. Climbing characteristics:
   • Elevation gain — 3000 m
   • Average slope approximately 50°
   • Length of most challenging sections — 1300 m
5. Pitons used:
   • Rock pitons — 82

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