Castle Rock — 7

Description prepared by: Max Kostrov and Olga Kostrova Castle Rock, "Sokoliny" route, 6A, F7a+ (or VI, A3), 370 m — Crimea Castle Rock, "Sokoliny" route Photo by: Alexey Osipov, 1999 We all climb and belay on rocks differently. And what is written in the "gray footnotes" should be considered. The "Sokoliny" route was first ascended 20 years ago in 1985 by Yuri Lishayov ("Fantik"). The line of the route beautifully and practically crosses the sheer

Castle — 9

Author: Vladimir Mogila, Odessa

Yuri Lishayev's route "through the cave" 6A, VII+, A2, 360 m

On November 17, Vladimir Mogila with Alexey Zhilin (Odessa) finished "repairing" Yuri Lishayev's ("Fantik") route "Through the cave". "...We did the main work three weeks ago, and this time we put the final touches. We did not alter the route, but only tried to restore it:

• Equipped reliable stations.
• Replaced some old drilled holes' pitons. Removed unnecessary ones.
• Cleaned the route from old pitons and chocks.

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Genesis on Masya via Castle

Written by ivantern, June 16, 2016 12:12 PM. Spring Crimea is so alluring, tempting to climb somewhere higher because it's still too cold to swim in the sea, and most cafes are not yet open, making the choice of where to go quite limited. Fedor and I, preparing for a competition in the rock climbing category, decided based on the description that it would be a good idea to practice some aid climbing on Masya, as a "warm-up" for Integral via Castle. On May 2nd, taking advantage of the sunny weather and light wind, we set out on the route. The guidebook promised entertainment at the level of A1–A2, but Fedor for some reason decided to climb it free. Not that we usually do that. No, we're not those who prioritize pure style, for example. But somehow it just happened that way. On Integral, we met a team of three quick climbers with one rope. They immediately told us that we should have started the route 10 minutes before them.

Ka­la­nykh-Ka­ya. 1. "Ob­lom" Massif: Ka­la­nykh-Ka­ya (623 m) Map: Difficulty: 1B Author: Lav­ri­nen­ko A., Tse­ma E. Time to complete: 1–3 hours Route description:

• From the "Myth" restaurant parking lot, go right — up the asphalt road to a large clearing
• Across the clearing, up at 11 o'clock in the direction of the mountain
• Approach via terraces overgrown with forest, no clear trail R1–R2: 60 m, I–n/k

Ка­ла­ных­ — Ка­я. 2. «Жу­чок» Massif: Ка­ла­ных­ — Ка­я (623 m) Map: Difficulty: 1Б Author: Лав­ри­нен­ко А., Це­ма Е. Year of route creation: 2016 Time to complete: 1­–3 hours Route description: The mountain Ка­ла­ных­ — Ка­я is located west of Иль­яс­ — Ка­я, directly above the Лас­пи tract. It is the highest point of the До­нгуз Ору­н massif. The "Жу­чок" route, 1Б category. From the "Миф" restaurant parking lot, go right — up the asphalt road to a large clearing. Across the clearing, at 11 o'clock, in the direction of the mountain. The approach is through terraces overgrown with forest; there is no clear trail. The starting point of the route is marked by a huge pine tree growing on a ledge in the lower part of the wall.

"Sand Castle" - a new route on the Kastropolskaya Wall

A new route on the Kastropolskaya Wall by Evgeny Poltavets (ExtremeTeam, Kharkov) and Alexander Lavrinenko (Odessa). Having had enough of the usual "Small Mountains", Alexander Lavrinenko and I followed our established tradition and set out to make a first ascent. This tradition probably didn't develop by chance. After racing against the clock on familiar routes, we felt an uncontainable urge for adventure and creative expression. Alexander Lavrinenko Evgeny Poltavets

Object

Kastropolskaya Wall, Crimea

Kilse-Burun — 6.

Via the inner corner of the left edge of the central part of the massif, 2A (II, 60 m)

The approach to the route is the same as for routes No. 3, No. 4, and No. 5. Along the inclined terrace of the western part of the massif 200 m to the right to the circus that separates the western and central parts of the massif. Through it to the right to the left edge of the central part (R0–R1: 600 m, 40°, no tech). The main part of the route goes along a long discontinuous inner corner located on the left edge of the central part. The inner corner (section R2–R5) sometimes widens, sometimes narrows, in places turning into a chimney. In its most difficult section - the exit from the inner corner to a long

Kilse-Burun — 4

Via the center of the fourth counterfort of the western part of the massif (Three Pines), 2B

This route name was chosen by the first ascenders, apparently, because its main part passes through three groups of pines, or maybe they got lost on this simple route — as if between three pines. The approach to the route starts at the same place as route №3, 50 m east of the "36–18" pillar of the old highway. First along the trail, and then simple rocks 100 m up and left to a long sloping terrace. Along it 150 m to the right to the base of the fourth counterfort. On sections R0–R1 and R1–R2, 80 m up simple rocks in the central part of the counterfort to a large shelf with a spreading oak tree. List:

• R0–R1: 40 m, 50°, I
• R1–R2: 40 m, 60°, I On section R2–R3 — 40 m up a long steep gully to a group of pines. This is the most difficult section of the route (R2–R3: 40 m, 70°, III).

Kilse-Burun — 7.

Up the wall on the left edge of the central part of the massif, 2B (A. Brynza's route, 1990)

The approach to the route starts approximately 200 m west of the campsite. An additional landmark is that the route begins under a rock cirque located between the western and central parts of the massif. Up a gentle slope for 70 m to the start of the main part of the route (R0: 70 m, 40°, category I). On the section R1–R2 — up 40 m on simple rocks. Then (section R1–R3) up and right along a crack to a group of trees (R1–R2: 40 m, 65°, I; R2–R3: 40 m, 70°, II). On section R3–R4 — up and right 40 m to exit into the right part of the rock cirque. Here it is necessary to overcome a large fault in the wall (R3–R4, 40 m, 70°, II). On section R4–R5 — up and right to a large internal corner located on the left edge of the T-part of the massif (R4–R5, 40 m, 60°, I; 40 m, 45°, I). The remaining part of the route completely coincides with route №6. On sections R5–R6 — R8–R9 move up a long internal corner to exit onto a terrace. The most difficult part is the exit onto the terrace. Here you need to move on the right side of the corner. On the terrace, the main part of the route ends (R5–R6: 40 m, 60°, I; R6–R7: 40 m, 70°, II; R7–R8: 40 m, 70°, II; R8–R9: 20 m, 70°, II). From the terrace, enter a wide couloir (section R9–yayla) and up it 200 m on simple rocks to exit onto the summit plateau (R9–yayla: 200 m, 45°, category I).