ELBRUS EASTERN AND WESTERN PEAKS TRAVERSE VIA THE SOUTHERN SLOPE 3–4 cat. dif. From the village of Terskol, ascend via the road on the left bank of the Terskol River. The road almost immediately crosses to the left side of the southeastern spur of the Elbrus massif into the Azau gorge and gradually ascends to the "95" checkpoint, then to the "105" checkpoint and further to the ice base. The road serpentines can be bypassed via trails in many places, starting from the transformer booth near the village of Terskol. From the village of Terskol, 5–6 hours. From the ice base, descend from the moraine onto the glacier, then make a steep ascent. Continue upwards along the gentle snowy slope, gradually bearing left, moving in a broad snowy hollow until the slope steepness increases sharply (to 30–35°). Here, turn left and, ascending via a traverse onto a snowy rise, after 300–350 m, reach the rocky ridge where the Priyut 11 ( Refuge of Eleven) is located (to the left of the ascent path — hidden crevices). From the ice base, 1.5–2 hours. In summer, the path from the ice base to Priyut 11 is usually marked with wooden stakes every 40–60 m. Another ascent option to Priyut 11 is possible: from Terskol by car to Azau, then via the cable car and from the cable car station upwards along the broken rocks and snowfields — from the station, about 3–3.5 hours. At Priyut 11, it is advisable to have an active acclimatization day with an exit to the Pastukhov rocks.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Elbrus West via the Western slope through Utyug for the category of complexity by the team of the "Maximum" Sports and Alpine Club of Pyatigorsk State University for the period from June 20 to 28, 2020.

I. Climbing Report Passport

Description

Climbing route to the summit SOVIETSKY VOIN 2A category of complexity. The summit elevation is 4052 m. The Soviet Voïn peak is located in the Eastern spur of Elbrus. From the junction of the Baksan valley and the Adyl-Su gorge, take the road to the settlement of Elbrus, located at the entrance to the Irik-Chat gorge. Follow the lower trail on the right bank of the Irik-Chat river upstream through the gorge. The trail goes along a grassy slope past sand pillars and small forests to the confluence of the Irik and Chat rivers. At the forest boundary, there are "Lower Camps" (3-3.5 hours from the Adyl-Su tourist center). Then the trail goes up to the right along a steep grassy slope (40 minutes - 1 hour) and leads to a large stone on a flat area - "Middle Camps". From here, the ascent follows the trail along a grassy slope, then through the "Verbliud" (Camel) - a steep grassy slope - the trail comes out onto a moraine and further along the moraine and snowy slope to the saddle between the Soviet Voïn peak and the Kezgen-Bashi peak. The exit to the saddle is to the right of the Soviet Voïn peak. From the "Middle Camps" to the saddle - 3-3.5 hours. From the saddle, ascend to the left up the inner corner 5-6 m. Piton belay. Then, along simple rocks upwards in the direction of the ridge to the second inner corner. Traverse below the inner corner and up its right side 5-6 m. Then move onto a slab to the right and along the slab to a large protruding stone. From the stone, along moderately difficult rocks 20-25 m, reach a sharp ridge crest, from which then move onto a smooth inclined slab leading to the ridge of the Soviet Voïn peak. From the saddle to the ridge - piton belay, handrail. Then along the ridge (simple rocks) ascend to the Soviet Voïn peak. From the saddle to the summit - 1-1.5 hours.

¹

1. DIFFICULT ROCK FORMATIONS
2. "КО­НЕК" (the "horse" or ridge)
3. SHELF ("POLKA")

North-West Federal District Championship in Alpinism (high-altitude technical class)

Climbing Report

on the ascent of Dzhailik peak (4424 m) via 1st S buttress of 3 rib (M. Franzuzov's route, 1970, 5B grade) The route was completed on August 5, 2024. Participants:

• Yakuba
• Nikolai
• Chetverikov
• Denis

Contents

Kichkidar-Yunom, combined, 3B

Route description:

The exit is from the Djailyk tourist camp, moving along the right (orographically) bank of the Kulumkol River past the cow shed and further along the moraines to the middle Kichkidar overnight stays near the Yunom glacier. Travel time is 2.5–3 hours. From the middle Kichkidar overnight stays:

• Up the glacier along the ridge, leaving it on the left;
• Exit via easy rocks to the saddle;
• Further up the snow-ice slope in the direction of the left gendarme of the "hare". The bergschrund under the "hare" is usually bypassed on the left. The time taken to move from the middle Kichkidar overnight stays to the left gendarme of the "hare" is 2–2.5 hours. From the left "hare", easy rocks on the pre-summit ridge lead to the summit of Kichkidar. The time taken for this section is approximately 0.5 hours. From the summit of Kichkidar, bypassing the "hares" on the right (belay!!!), move in the direction of the Yunomkara summit, keeping to the right side of the ridge (there may be cornices on the left) until the first gendarme of the three on the ridge, before the wall on the Yunomkara summit. Options for overcoming the gendarmes:

St. Petersburg Climbing Championship 2021 (altitude-technical class) Report on the ascent to Tyutyu West peak (4233 m), via the S wall, I. Khatskevich, 1973, cat. 5A The route was climbed by the team of the Federation of Alpinism of St. Petersburg St. Petersburg 2021

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, from the Gumači peak to the Kitlod pass. Section No. 2.4.1 of the classifier of routes to mountain peaks.
2. Tyutyu West peak (4233 m), via the S wall, I. Khatskevich, 1973.
3. Route character – combined.

PASSPORT

1. Ice and snow ascent class
2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge
3. Ulu-Tau East peak, 4058 m via the right edge of the N face (Monucharov route)
4. Complexity category 5B
5. Elevation gain 700 m, length 950 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 50 m. Average slope of the route 50°
6. Pitons used: rock: 23/0, drilled: 0/0, chocks: 45/3, ice screws: 55/0
7. Climbing time — 12 hours, descent — 9 hours

Passport

1. Type of ascent — ice and snow climb.
2. Region of ascent — Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Adyr-Su valley.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Ullutau East, 4058 m, via rocky outcrops of the North face, West ridge (route by Yu. Chernoslvin, 1965)
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference of the route — 650 m
   • route length — 850 m
   • length of sections category 5 — 85 m (central part of the Big rocky outcrop)
   • length of sections category 3–4 — remaining part of the rocky outcrop

XXXV USSR Championship rock class

Report

On the ascent of p. Shchurovsky (4259 m) via the north-eastern wall, category 5B route by V. Abalakov of the SA and Navy team Team leader Zhak V.V., team coach Dzhibradev Yu.G. When developing the tactical action plan for the route, the team considered the following factors:

• the volume of information about the route available to the team before the ascent;
• the weather conditions in the ascent area;
• the duration of the approach to the route;
• the level of preparedness of the team members. To expand knowledge about the route, the team decided to observe it for a day preceding the ascent. On July 21, team members continuously observed the route (see observation and radio communication log). The observation results allowed for some adjustments to the stated tactical plan, according to which the team planned to complete the route in 10-11 hours.