1. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, 2.3
2. Peak name: Dalar, North-Eastern edge
3. Category 5B complexity
4. Route type: combined
5. Elevation gain: 1000 m Route length: 1422 Section lengths:

• Category V complexity: 830
• Category VI complexity: 10 Average steepness:

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Western Caucasus, from Nakhar pass to Chipperaza pass 3. Mt. Dalar, right part of the North Face (V. Shopin route) 4. Category 5B difficulty, third ascent 5. Route elevation gain — 760 m, route length — 1060 m, wall elevation gain — 500 m, wall length — 640 m, length of sections with category 5-6 difficulty — 370+280=650 m. Average steepness of the wall — 70° (3270–3720 m) 6. Pitons driven: rock bolt anchors 149/24 (0+7)/(–87/11) 7. Team's walking hours — 28 and days — 2. 8. Joint snow overnight stay.

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class
2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
3. Dalar via the center of the bastion (Ivaschenko route 1982)
4. Proposed category: 6A
5. Height difference: 939 m, of which 520 m is wall climbing; total route length is 1310 m, of which 550 m is wall climbing Section lengths:

• Category 5 – 250 m
• Category 6 – 210 m

6. Average steepness of the wall section — 71°

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - rock II. Ascent area - W. Caucasus from Klukhor Pass to Azau Pass. III. Peak - Dvoynyshka 3830 m. East peak. IV. Proposed difficulty category - 5A V. Route character - combined. VI. Route characteristics:

• height difference - 940 m.
• route length - 1490 m.
• incl. snow-ice sections - 1150 m.

Category II Ascent

I. Rock Class. 2. Western Caucasus. 3. Dvoynyashka Zap. peak, 3743 m, via 10В wall, second ascent. 4. Category of difficulty — 5Е. 5. Height difference — 650 m, total route length — 1050 m, length of sections with 5 — 6 category of difficulty — 500 m. Average steepness — 78° 6. Pitons hammered — (for belay / for creating I.T.O. / rock ice bolt anchors) 55/18 0/0 4/2 88/26 7. Number of climbing hours — 21, days — 2.

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
2. Name of the peak: Dalar via the left part of the N wall.
3. Proposed — 6A category of complexity (Snesarev — Shopin combination)
4. Route type: rock
5. Height difference: 950 m. Route length — 1200 m. Length of sections:
   • 5th cat. diff. – 415 m
   • 6th cat. diff. – 280 m

Report

On the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Centralny (3760 m) via the western wall edge, category 5A, made by the team of Krasnodar mountaineers August 2008

Contents

Letter to the Climbing Federation of Russia Comments on the route Ascent details General photo of the summit

3. Ascent to South Dolomite via the west face — Cat. 3B

Elbrus divides the surrounding mountains into two very different areas. The Baksan area with its peaks around 4000 m and above is much harsher in terms of climbing conditions compared to the Western Caucasus regions. This is evidenced by:

• large altitude differences,
• heavily broken glaciers,
• mandatory snow at high altitudes. In contrast, the area west of Elbrus — Uzun-kol — is mostly purely rocky. All peaks in this area (except Gvandra) are below 4000 m. Climbing usually doesn't involve overcoming significant glaciers, and all steep slopes are free of snow and ice. The Zamok peak is located in the Main Caucasus Range. Together with Dalar and Dvoinyashka, it forms the base of a horseshoe that encompasses the upper reaches of the Kichkinekol River, which, merging with Mordy, forms Uzun-kol. In terms of height, Zamok (3930 m) is second only to:
• Gvandra
• Dalar The two peaks of Zamok — Eastern and Western — are situated on a ridge, the northwestern part of which leads to Dvoinyashka, while the southeastern part stretches in an arc, curving around the Zamok glacier from the south. This southeastern part of the ridge had not been traversed before the ascent described below. To the northeast from the Western peak of Zamok, a ridge leads, steeply descending to the Burvestnik pass, and then slowly rising to the Filter peak. To the south-southwest from the same Western peak, the South Counterforce extends. Significantly west of both Zamok peaks and all its gendarmes, the North Counterforce leads to the Bolshoy Kichkinekol glacier. The main difficulty in climbing in the Uzun-kol area lies in overcoming complex rock walls of heavily broken rock ridges; however, climbs usually don't take much time. Examples of relatively short but extremely complex routes include the well-known wall routes:

Report on the second ascent by the team from the multifaceted mountaineering club "Freeline" in Essentuki

To the summit of Zub Sofruju

via the direttissima of the western wall, 6A category of difficulty Leader: Popov Mikhail Lvovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich Essentuki 2020 Addresses: 357600, Stavropol Krai, Essentuki, Oktyabrskaya St., 434, apt. 59 Popov M.L. 89282657130