SummitMate
@SummitMate
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
Climbing Mount Everest via the South Col route: a description of the challenging itinerary, key stages, and necessary skills for successfully conquering the world's highest peak.
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Route Description: ЮВ гребню
Climbing Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, a description of the challenging route and key points for climbers.
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Route Description: Ольга (В - З), траверс
Report on the traverse of Olga peaks (Eastern - Western) in the South Chuya ridge of Altai, category of complexity 2A.
Ascent Passport
- Altai, South Chuya Range, classifier section 1.3
- Olga (Eastern — Western), traverse.
- Proposed category: 2A.
- Route type: ice and snow.
- Route elevation gain: 700 m. Route length: 1970 m. Length of sections with category V: 0, category VI: 0. Average slope: 27°.
- Pitons left on the route Total: 0, drilled pitons: 0.
- Team's total climbing time: 25 hours, 2 days.
Route Description: С ребру
Description of a 1B category difficulty route to Ostriy peak via the north edge in the South Chuya ridge in Altai.
PASSPORT
- First Ascent
- Altai, South Chuya Ridge
- v. Ostriy via N ridge
- Category 1B difficulty proposed
- Height 3751 m, elevation gain 420 m, length 850 m
- Equipment: ice screws — 3 pcs.
- Overnight stays: not required
- Climbing time 10 hours from bivouac to bivouac, 5 hours from glacier to glacier.
- Leader: Barnov S.I. — 1st sports category
Route Description: СВ гребню
Route description to the summit Ostriy via NE ridge, category IIb, Altai, South Chuya ridge.
Passport
- First Ascent
- Altai. South Chuya Ridge, Akkol River valley
- v. Ostyry via NE ridge
- Proposed category 2B
- Height 3731 m, elevation gain 420 m, length 680 m
- Pitons: Ice screws — 8 pcs.
- Total climbing time 12 hours from bivouac to bivouac 7 hours from bergschrund below the ridge to the glacier under S ridge
Route Description: С гребню
Description of the ascent route to the Pamjati Voshooditeley peak (Everest Climbers Memorial peak, 3720 m) via the north ridge, category 3A on Altai.
Passport
- Category of first ascent.
- Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Sofiyskiy Glacier area.
- Peak Pamyati Voskhoditeley na Everest (3) via N ridge.
- First ascent of category 3A difficulty is proposed.
- Height 3720 m, elevation gain 450 m, length 1520 m.
- Pitons: 16 ice screws for protection.
- Climbing time 12 hours.
- Overnight stays: not necessary.
- Leader: Mokhova Valentina Mikhaylovna, 1st sports category.
Route Description: траверс
Traverse of the "Pamyati voshoditeley na Everest" peaks in the Beloo-Chuysky ridge of Altai, category 4A, first ascent in 1998.
Passport
I. Category of First Ascent. 2. Altai, South-Chuya Ridge, Sofiyskiy Glacier area. 3. "Pamyati voskhoditeley na Everest" (B-3) traverse with ascent via the NE ridge snow-ice saddle. 4. Proposed category 4A, first ascent. 5. Height of the eastern summit 3710 m, western 3720 m. Elevation difference 920 m, length 1760 m. 6. Pitons: 22 ice screws for belay. 7. Climbing hours 13. 8. Overnight stays: not necessary. 9. Leader Drakin Andrey Valentinovich CMS.
Route Description: кулуару с севера
Route description to Peak Ostri (3731.2 m) via ice and snow gully with ridge exit and bypassing gendarmes.
July 13, 2001
ASCENT DOCUMENT for the summit "Peak 300 years of St. Petersburg"
- Ascent category – Ice and snow.
- Ascent area – Altai, South Chuya Ridge.
- Peak – Peak 300 years of St. Petersburg, Height – 3514.5 m, combined route – snow, ice, rocks.
- Expected category – 2A.
- Route characteristics: height difference – 500 m, length – 1100 m, average steepness – 45° (excluding the ridge).
- Number of ice screws used – 12, rock anchors – 2.
- Total climbing hours – 11 hours.
Route Description: кулуару с севера
Description of the first ascent to **Peak Petra I** (3422 m) in Altai via ice-snow route, category 1B complexity level.
ASCENT PASS TO THE SUMMIT "Pik Petra I"
July 10, 2001
- Ascent type — ice and snow.
- Ascent area — Altai, South-Chuya Ridge.
- Summit — Pik Petra I, height — 3422.0 m, route is combined — snow, ice, rocks.
- Expected category — 1B.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m, length — 900 m, average steepness — 45° without a ridge.
- Number of ice screws driven — 12, rock screws — 2.
- Number of hours on the move — 7 hours.
Route Description: Сестра (Ср-З), траверс
Traversing Sestra (Middle) and Sestra (3) peaks in Altai, cat. 2B, combined route, 800 m, 5 hours from the bergshrund.
Passport
- Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Akkol gorge (Sofiysky glacier area), 1.3
- Sister (Middle) – Sister (3) 3721 m traverse.
- Proposed category 2B, first ascent.
- Route type — mixed.
- Height difference 225 m. Distance 800 m. Average slope of the main part of the route 29°, total route 22°.
- Ice screws used — 6.
- Total climbing time — 5 hours (from the bergschrund).
- Leader Drakkin Andrey Valentinovich CMS, 1st sports category, № 68.
- Participants: Abornev S. — 3rd sports category