Ascent to the summit — DVUZUBKA from the Ivizak peak — 1B category of difficulty. The ascent to the summit is made from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, located under the Bivachnaya peak. From the camp, you should:
- go up along the Igizak River
- first along grassy slopes and scree
- then, after 40–50 minutes of movement, cross to the left bank of the river
- begin the ascent up the steep western slope of the valley
The slope has rock outcrops. Further ascent on snow leads to the Big Igizak cirque and the Dvuzybka on the plateau.
Between the peaks of Bolshoy Igizak and Dvuzybka, there is an unnamed peak. The ascent to Dvuzybka should be made from the saddle between the unnamed peak (Dvuzybka pass). The exit to the pass is on snow. From the pass:
- to the right along the scree,
- then along easy rocks, ascend along the ridge.
Then the ridge narrows, and small walls up to 2 m appear. Insurance is simultaneous. Before the summit, you should descend into a shallow depression to the right along a ledge, as the ridge has steep walls to the left. The ascent to the summit from the saddle is 5 m along moderately difficult rocks.
The descent from the summit is made via the ascent route. For a large group of climbers, a descent may be recommended (there is little space on the summit) further along the ridge to the right to the north for 20–30 m to the next depression, from which:
- initially along a steep, narrow snowy couloir,
- turning into a steep slope at the bottom,
- descend into the Big Igizak and Dvuzybka cirque on the plateau.
The descent from the plateau to the valley is better done to the right (more on snow) under the northern slopes of Big and Maly Igizak along a snowy hollow to the Igizak River and further along the valley to "Zelyonaya Polyana".
RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CLIMBERS.
- Number of participants — 10 people
- Initial bivouac — "Zelyonaya Polyana"
- Departure time — not later than 7:00
- Equipment for a group of 10 people: rock pitons — 2 pcs., hammer — 1 pc., carabiners — 2 pcs., main ropes — 4×30 m.
TIME CALCULATION
- "Zelyonaya Polyana" — plateau: 3 hours
- Plateau — Dvuzybka pass: 0.5 hours
- Ascent along the ridge to the summit: 1 hour
- Descent from the summit back to "Zelyonaya Polyana": 2 hours
Total: 6.5 hours
