MAP — DIAGRAM OF THE CLIMBING AREA

Brief description of the approach to the route

The approach to the start of the first ascent route from the Talgar alp camp is along the trail along the Sr. Talgar River to the Shumikhinsky overnight stay, located at the foot of v. Karaulchita (2 h 30 min); then cross to the left (orographic) bank of the river and along the trail approach the "Tekegrad" overnight stay (1 h 15 min). From the "Tekegrad" bivouac, the path goes along the moraine of the South TEU glacier in the SW direction. 400–500 m before the glacier tongue, turn in the southern direction, cross the lateral moraine of the glacier towards the 70-meter tower, which ends the NE buttress of v. Karatash. The approach from "Tekegrad" to the start of the route takes 25–30 min.

Brief explanation for the route table

At the foot of the ice slope, it is necessary to rope up and move vertically upwards to the beginning of the characteristic internal corner, using stones frozen in the ice, sometimes with step cutting. Climbing the inner corner (section R1–R2) is quite difficult:

• rocks are fragile;
• in some places 2–3 m wall;

Romana Ziasto traversing: 8th: Mine-maw, S. Tolgar, P. Tolgar, N. Tolgar, “right”, N. V. Tolgar (left — right)

Location, History of Ascent, and Approach Routes

Peak named after I. V. Kurchatov is located in one of the spurs of the Left Talgar river basin and closes the Rusakova river gorge, which flows into the Left Talgar river (see map). The peak is clearly visible from the Kuldzhinsky tract on the segment between Malaya Stanitsa and Almaty tobacco farm, and has an impressive appearance. Its approximate height is 4200 m. It is not surprising that, being unclimbed, it attracted the attention of mountaineers from the Institute of Nuclear Physics of the Academy of Sciences of the Kazakh SSR. From the scientific town of INF, its summit stands out with its strict outlines against the background of surrounding peaks (photo 1, 2). Therefore, in August 1966, a group of mountaineers from INF consisting of:

• Saprykin V. D. — Master of Sports
• Il'inykh A. M. — 3rd sports category
• Gubanova A. M. — 3rd sports category
• Mukhamedshina D. M. — 3rd sports category accompanied by an observation group, made the first ascent to the unnamed peak 4200 m. Paying tribute to the achievements of the outstanding Soviet physicist I. V. Kurchatov (1903–1960), the mountaineer-physicists, as the first ascenders, named the conquered peak after I. V. Kurchatov.

Route Description

From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier, exit onto the Tuyuk-Su glacier and, moving along the left lateral moraine, cross the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier that flows into it. Then follow the talus along the rocky ridge connecting the peaks of Lokomotiv and Kosmodemyanskaya. The ascent to the Lokomotiv peak is described above (category 2A difficulty via the North ridge). Bypassing a series of gendarmes on the right via moderately difficult and easy rocks, descend to the saddle between the peaks of Pogrebetskogo and Lokomotiv. Ascend to the peak of Pogrebetskogo via snowy, not very steep slopes, and occasionally talus. Then move along the eastern ridge to the Tuyuk-Su pass. From there, descend to the glacier to the foot of the ridge of the Tuyuk-Su peak, and, bypassing it on the left, head to the initial bivouac. The traverse takes 10–12 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — not limited.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00 AM.

Northern Tien-Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau

Peak Oktyabrenok

via the right edge of the first Bastion 3B category of difficulty

Climbing Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien-Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe valley.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrenok 3650 m, via the right part of the Western ridge
3. Proposed: 3B category of difficulty

The approach to the bastion is described in the previous section (1.5 hours), but there is no need to bypass it from the right; the route goes along the left, main, face. At the top of the bastion, it joins route 3A, which leads to the summit. View of Mynzhipin from the road.

Orjonikidze via SW slope along the NE ridge from Orjonikidze Pass

Route description.

Peak Orjonikidze is located in the central part of the Malo-Almatinsky spur, is the highest point in this area. It is a large rocky massif with lateral ridges extending to the northwest and northeast, has significant glaciation:

• the East Orjonikidze glacier descends into the lateral valley of the Left Talgar;
• it is framed by the West Orjonikidze hanging glacier on the western side. The starting bivouac is at Orjonikidze Pass (3980 m). The approach to it is through the Tuyuk-Su glacier and its right lateral moraine, the Tuyuk-Su Needles glacier, and then to the foot of the pass. After overcoming a large talus, exit to the middle, and in the upper part of the slope - to the fine talus. The ascent length is up to 300 m. The ascent begins in a southerly direction:
• along the talus,
• then along easy rocks turning into a crumbling ridge.

Ascent Log

1. Sports organization: Republican Climbers' Club of the Kazakh SSR.
2. Ascent classification: Technically challenging.
3. Assault leader: Akinenkov M.V. — Candidate Master of Sports.
4. Participants: — Belovol E.V. — 1st category, Denisov V.G. — 1st category, Popenko Yu.S. — 1st category.
5. Peak name, height: "Yuzhny Talgar", 5017 m.
6. Geographical area: Trans-Ili Alatau, Tian Shan.
7. Route: South-West wall.
8. Route height: wall section height difference — 520 m, including most challenging sections — 450 m.
9. Difficulty category assessment — 5B.

World Climbing Championship High-Altitude Technical Class National Team of the Republic of Kazakhstan

Peak Trud, 4635 m via the west face, 5B cat. diff. (first ascent)

General photo of the summit

Taken from Kroshka glacier on May 26 at 19:00

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge:

Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Middle Talgar

2. Summit name, route name:

Карта­-­схе­ма района Схе­ма хре­бов За­пад­но­го Са­я­на Duty officer of the Siberian Regional Rescue Team, Krasnoyarsk tel.: (3912) 28­-­90­-­01 The Sayan mountain system is located in southern Siberia, northeast of Altai, west of Lake Baikal. The Sayan mountains are divided into two separate mountain systems:

• Eastern Sayan
• Western Sayan The Borus mountain ridge is located in the south of the Krasnoyarsk Krai, on the border with the Republic of Khakassia. The nearest settlement is the urban-type settlement Cheremushki (300 m above sea level). The settlement of the hydroelectric power plant Sayano-Shushenskaya, which is located 2 km from the center. The approach from the settlement to the base camp takes 3-4 hours. The Borus ridge consists of five peaks. The highest point in the area is p. Borus, 2320 m above sea level. The old name of the peak is гора Пойлов (Poylov mountain), named after one of the pioneers of the region. Borus is the most visited area, a tourist center for:
• athletes,