Passport

Ascent to the "Bezымянная" peak via the southwest ridge

1. Class of ascent — technical.
2. Area of ascent — Caucasus, Bezengi area, southwest spur of Dykh-Tau (Fig. 1).
3. "Bezымянная" peak 4050 m, in the spur of Dykh-Tau (Fig. 2).
4. Proposed category — 3.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1300 m; b) route length — 900–1100 m of snow-ice slope; c) average steepness — 35–45°.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock 2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Klukhor Pass to Chipperazau Pass 3. Peak — Vostochnaya Dvoynyashka, 3830 m 4. Estimated difficulty category — 5A 5. Route character — combined 6. Route characteristics: a) height difference 840 m b) length of sections with 4th cat. diff. 340 m c) length of sections with 5th cat. diff. 320 m

Report on the First Ascent to v. Zamok from the Northwest (Training Gathering of the Central Council of the LOKOMOTIV Sports Society)

Southeast Ridge of v. Zamok

(View from v. Burevestnik) View of v. Zamok from the ridge of v. Dolomit. The route of the first ascent to v. Zamok from the northwest wall.

46

Report

on the second ascent of Mt. Adyrsu (4370 m) via the South-West wall through the central bastion from August 8 to 10, 2008, by the sports group of AUSB "Ullutau" consisting of:

• Privalov S.A. - leader
• Olkhovikov A.V.

Contacts

AUSB "Ullutau" Leader Privalov S.A. Coach Semykin B.I. 361602 KBR, Nalchik, tel. 8-8662-77-09-87 elimaso3@mail.ru, tel. 8-9272527095 sembi53@mail.ru, tel. 8-9053319763 The heights mentioned in the report were determined:

Ascent Passport

I. Technical class. Combined route. 2. Central Caucasus. Digoria. Main Caucasian Range. 3. Tajmazi Glavnaja 3803 m. Western ridge. 4. Category 3B difficulty. 5. Height difference 600 m. Average steepness of sections determining the complexity of the routes is 60°. The total length of these sections is 160 m. Route length is 1150 m. 6. Pitons driven for belay: rock - 10 ice - 3 placements used - 11

Tsikhvar­ga

Tsikh­var­ga (4132 m) is a key peak of the Main Ridge between the peak Kain to the northwest and the Gur­ziv­ts­ek pass to the southeast. Beyond the pass lies the peak Sau­al­khoyne. The northern ridge of Tsikh­var­ga extends into a long spur with the peaks Tsagor and Legauta. The spur separates the Fastag gorges to the east and Bartuy to the west, with glaciers of the same name in their upper reaches. 80. Tsikh­var­ga via the Northwest Ridge (combined route, category II) From the settlement of Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people), cross the Karaugom river by bridge and follow a forest road to the settlement of Nogkau. From here, move along a forest trail on the right bank of the Bartuy river. Further:

• the trail crosses to the left bank by bridge,
• after 2-3 km, returns to the right bank,
• along the right bank, approaches the right-bank moraine. Along the moraine ridge, then via scree and a steep snowy slope, reach the Bartuy glacier 200-250 m above its tongue. Initially, ascend on the right side of the glacier (closed crevices), then cross it to the left and emerge under the left side of the first step of the icefall on the Eastern branch of the Bartuy glacier. Further:

21. BUBIS — CHANCHAKHI, traverse (combined route, cat. 4B)

Ascent to the summit of Bubis via the normal route (cat. 2B) from the Tsey-Raug pass. Descent from the summit of Bubis along the southeastern snowy ridge to the saddle below the summit of Tbiliza-Mta. Ascent up a new slope (40–45°) to the summit of Tbiliza-Mta. Descent from the summit of Tbiliza-Mta initially along a gentle (30°) snowy ridge, then down an ice and firn slope (120 m, 70°, piton belay!) to the ridge before a large "gendarme". Bypass the large "gendarme" from the left (in the direction of travel) from the north along a steep (60°) firn slope, followed by an ascent (50 m) onto the ridge. Bypass all encountered "gendarmes" from the right (in the direction of travel) and along a heavily damaged rocky ridge to the Tsey–Tbiliza pass. From the pass, ascend to the summit of Chanchakhi via the normal route (cat. 4B). Descent from the summit of Chanchakhi to the Tsey–Tbiliza pass via the normal route (cat. 4B). When traversing the summit of Chanchakhi in full, the category of the Bubis—Chanchakhi traverse is 5A (approximate).

28. VILS Peak via the Northwest Ridge /combined route, cat. 5A/ From the base camp in the direction of the Green hill on the moraine of the Skaaz glacier to the point where you turn left into the couloir leading under the Vils wall. The landmark is the top of the wall, which has a characteristic trapezoidal shape. Follow the scree into the couloir, then follow the snow, keeping to the right side of the couloir. (The couloir is rockfall-prone) walk on the rocks to the right, and higher up on the snow (40°, 200–250 m) to the narrowing of the couloir opposite the rocky ridge with gendarmes leading under the peak wall. Cross the couloir with an avalanche gully (belay via ice axe) to the rocky ridge. First control point: straight up the ridge rocks to the "gendarmes". Overcome the "gendarmes" head-on, descend through the cleft down into the couloir. Then, on the left side of the couloir, bypassing the gendarmes. In the couloir, there is flow ice (50°, piton belay). To the right along the scree rocks. Then bypass the gendarmes on the left along the ice (step cutting, piton belay) to the internal corner to the right, leading to the beginning of the first wall. From the first gendarme to the beginning of the wall is 250 m. Along the internal corner and then left-up to a narrow shelf at the beginning of the wall. Control point. The wall is monolithic with a limited number of holds. Straight up through the clefts (20 m, 80°) traverse to the right into a recess (good belay point) and left-up to a ledge. The ledge is to the right and up to a two-meter shelf. Along the crack above the shelf to a wide cleft and straight along it to a ledge for belay (90 m, piton belay). Then up along the feather-like steep rocks to a gendarme on the ridge. No water. Snow in the couloir to the right. Control point. Bypassing the gendarmes to the right (piton belay 40 m). Then along the slabs (45–50°, piton belay) to the right and up under the second wall (200 m).

Ascent Log

1. Climbing grade — technically challenging.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasian Ridge and its spurs from Chipperaza Pass to Ortokara peak.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Latsga (3999 m) eastern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 620 m average steepness — 52° length of sections — 5th cat. diff. — 197 m
6. Pitons hammered: for belay and for creating R.P.E. rock pitons 56