1. Ascent to Semenov-bashi peak (3608 m) from the southwest — 1b category of difficulty (Fig. 10)

From the “Alibek” alpine camp along the trail through the stream under the waterfall to the bivouac site. From Dombay plain 2.5–3 hours. From the bivouac:

• along the stream up the trail to a steep grassy slope;
• after passing the slope, exit to the left ridge of the upper moraine;
• further along the talus — to a wide couloir divided by a ridge into two parts. Up the ridge and through heavily destroyed rocks — exit under the ridge of the forepeak (in the couloir, it is possible to ascend to the left of the ridge, but the path is more rockfall-prone!). 50–60 m below the ridge — traverse to the right and through a gentle wall (15 m) along the shelves — exit to the forepeak. From the forepeak — descent into the gap (insurance, piton!) and along the destroyed rocks of the ridge (50–60 m) — exit to the summit. From the bivouac to the summit: 5–6 hours. The entire path is rockfall-prone! Descent along the ascent route to Dombay — 6–7 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

10. Archimedes from the north-west via couloir — category III difficulty (V. Ryazanov, V. Benkin, A. Ryabukhin, V. Samokhvalov, and V. Chernov — July 8, 1961). The path from the Bezengi alpine camp to the left-bank moraine of the Maly Ukyu glacier behind the Southern counterfort of the Ukyu peak summit see in description 3. Immediately behind the Southern counterfort of the Ukyu peak, [move] right to a large scree and, in its lower part, partially snowed couloir that is snow-ice in its upper part (rope up! the couloir is prone to rockfall). 60–70 m up the rocks on the right side of the couloir, then traverse the couloir left and 60–65 m up the rocks on the left side (beware of streams!). Above the couloir's mouth, from under the slabs, move to the right side of the couloir and exit to the North-West

99. The North summit of Kayashkishubashi via the North-Eastern buttress - Cat. 1B (G. Stepanov, Yu. Vuslik, O. Degtyarev, V. Eremeev, V. Ershov, V. Kompanovsky, V. Kos, O. Lomakin, D. Muzhev, V. Nagolny, A. Snesarev and R. Khabatov - December 7, 1955, Fig. 33). From Mukhol village, follow the pack trail up, then along the slope of the right bank of the Chainashki river. At the foot of Chuprobashi peak - bivouac. From Mukhol village - 6-7 hours. From the bivouac, ascend the scree, then the snowy slopes to a wide couloir. Ascend the right side of the couloir; 60-70-meter "sheep's foreheads" in the middle part of the couloir are traversed via the central gully; further ascent on scree leads to the Eastern snow cirque formed by Kayashkishubashi and Chuprobashi peaks. Traverse the scree, then the snow-ice fields and slopes of the Unnamed glacier left-upwards, below the left slopes of the North-Eastern buttress of Kayashkishubashi peak. Below the buttress - bivouac. From the first bivouac - 7-8 hours. From the plateau, ascend simple and moderately difficult rock terrain ("live" rocks!) to the North-Eastern buttress of the peak. Along the edge of rocks and snow, in places via broken simple rocks, ascend to the summit rock pitch, 30-40 meters, and via it (belay!) reach the North summit of Kayashkishubashi. From the bivouac below the buttress - 3-4 hours. Descent via the ascent route to the bivouac below the buttress - 1.5-2 hours. Recommendations for climbers:
100. Number of participants - 4-20 people.
101. Initial bivouac - grassy slopes, Chuprobashi peak.
102. Departure time - 4-5 am.
103. Equipment: main rope - 2×30 m; auxiliary cord - 1.5 m; rock pitons - 2-3; rock hammer - 1; carabiners - 7-8; tent - 1.
104. Bivouac locations - on the Unnamed glacier and on simple rocks of the North-Eastern buttress.

57. Krumkol via the South Ridge, cat. 3B (Kronok and Kolt — 1930; D. Salov and Yu. Golizdra — August 27, 1937; Fig. 19). The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the left-bank moraine of the Krumkol Glacier under the scree slopes of the South Ridge of Krumkol peak see in description 42, the path from the fork of the Dykhsu and Karasu gorges — in description 43. From the moraine:

• 300 m up the scree Southwest slope,
• then along a wide scree snow-filled couloir ascent to the South Ridge of Krumkol peak. Along the route:
• along a simple, heavily destroyed rocky ridge,
• then along a gently sloping snowy ridge and slope ascent to under a 30-meter rocky belt, which is passed through a central rocky couloir (insurance!). Further:

The Western ridge - category 4B difficulty (G. Pro­kudaev, I. Kor­zun and V. Na­u­menko — July 1936). The path from the Bezengi alpine camp to the initial bivouac under the Sella pass see in the description 42. From the bivouac site across the glacier (in crampons!) in the direction of the snowy couloir descending from the saddle between the Pik Pushkina and the Unnamed 4880 m. Bergschrund bypass along the avalanche chute and behind it 80–100 m up the icy-snowy couloir (rockfall!). At a large rocky "tooth" to the right — exit to the rocks of the Southern counterfort of the Unnamed 4880 m and up to the right along the moderately difficult rocks to the ridge of the counterfort. Further movement along:

• moderately difficult rocks,
• simple rocky sections,
• snowy slopes,
• ledges,
• small 2–4-meter walls (insurance!),

25. Panoramnaya Peak via East Ridge - Cat. 2B (A. Ermolaev, V. Vexler, A. Dobrushin and A. Kiselev - August 5, 1963; Fig. 7, 8). The path from the Bezengi alpbase to the bivouac on the South Ridge of Utug rock pinnacle is described in 18°. From the ridge, descend to the snowy plateau of the glacier, above the third step of the icefall and along it to the left and upwards, parallel to the ridge. From the glacier, to the left and up a snowy couloir to the saddle of the South Ridge below Utug rock pinnacle. From the saddle, make a 60–70-meter descent to the Southeastern plateau of Panoramnaya Peak. Ascend across the plateau, then up a snowy slope to the left of a rock pinnacle and to the right of a small rocky outcrop to the saddle on the East Ridge of Panoramnaya Peak. Ascend along the snowy (watch out for cornices!) and easy rocky ridge to below the rocky tower of Panoramnaya Peak. Traverse rocky, heavily snowed ledges (belays required!) to the left of the tower, spiralling left and upwards to the summit of Panoramnaya Peak. From the initial bivouac - 4–5 hours. Descent via the ascent route - 2–3 hours. Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants - 4–8 people.
2. Initial bivouac - South Ridge of Utug rock pinnacle.
3. Departure time - 4:00.
4. Equipment: main rope - 2 × 30 m; auxiliary cord - 2 m; rock pitons - 2–3; ice screws - 3–4; rock hammer - 1; carabiners - 8; crampons - 4 pairs; tent - 1.
5. Bivouac sites - on glaciers and their moraines, on the Southeastern plateau of Panoramnaya Peak.

a stream or a snowfield closing it and 500–600 m up along the grassy slopes and scree of the Western ridge of pik Semenovskogo. Further, a climb to the shoulder along simple rocks. From the shoulder, there is a 200–250-meter traverse with an ascent along the scree and simple rocks on the right side of the ridge (protection needed!); then 30–40 m left and up, an ascent to the ridge behind the gendarme. Along the 12–15-meter ridge and a 10-meter ledge on its left side, there is a descent into the gap. From the gap, 300–350 m up along simple rocks («loose stones!») and scree of the ridge or its left side, further, an ascent onto a snowy slope along the slabs and then an ascent to the top of pik Semenovskogo along it.

• From the left-bank moraine — 4–5 hours
• Descent along the ascent route to the moraine — 1.5–2 hours Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants — 4–20 people.
2. Initial bivouac — left-bank moraine of the Eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier.
3. Departure time — 5–6 am.
4. Equipment: main rope — 2×30 m; rock pitons — 2–3; rock hammer — 1; carabiners — 6–7; tent — 1.

40. Peak Tikhonov via NW ridge — 4A cat. diff. (V. Lubenets, V. Volchenko, L. Kalishevsky, I. Kunaev, V. Lebedev, V. Nikolaenko, A. Ovchinnikov and A. Sevostyanov — August 23, 1951). The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the overnight stay on the Southern ridge of the Utug spire is described in route 18. From the overnight stay:

• Descent to the glacier above the third stage of the icefall
• Crossing the glacier to the right towards the Northern counterforce of Peak Tikhonov
• Through the bergschrund — ascent up the steep 150-meter snowy slope to the saddle

23 Ulluuuz via the E slope of the W ridge — 5A cat. diff. (V. Samokhvalov, A. Ryabukhin, Yu. Slezin and O. Trubnikov — August 7, 1964). The path from the "Bezengi" alp camp to the Severny Ulluuuz glacier see in description 12. On the moraine of the glacier under the slopes of the Archimedes peak — a bivouac. From the bivouac (in teams and with crampons!) across the glacier and then up, 200–250 m to the right of the lower rocky outcrop. Through the bergschrund, ascent straight up 700–800 m along the ice-snow slope, then — along a not very pronounced couloir, to the right of the second triangle of the rocky outcrop (insurance! avalanches!) — with an exit to the snow plateau of faults above the triangular rocky outcrop. From the plateau:

• ascent along the snow slope through the bergschrund;
• further along the snow-ice slope 200–250 m up to the lower rocky right outcrop under the summit tower (avalanches!);
• on the right side of the outcrop (“live” stones! pitons!) 10–15 m up. From the top of the outcrop:
• 300–400-meter traverse left-up along the ice-snow slope under the rocks of the summit tower (piton!);
• along the ice slope-couloir ascent to the saddle of the Eastern ridge of the Ulluuuz summit.

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope: