PIK VLADIVOSTOK (4257 m) from Pereval Tsentralny via southeast wall, cat. III, 5A — first ascent

Ascent leader — Sharadin V.I. Team members:

• Timofeev V.N.
• Merkovich V.B.
• Lebedev G.I.
• Baranov V.A.
• Prokopovich S.K.

Dnepropetrovsk, 1980

Climbing Area

Route Characteristics Table

Weather conditions during the ascent were good.

Route Description

From the base camp under the Zamin-Karor massif, ascend to Pereval Tsentralny. Overnight on the moraine of Pereval Tsentralny. From the overnight site, ascend to the control cairn on Pereval Tsentralny, then move left to the southeast wall of Pik Vladivostok. The route starts 15–20 m left of the ridge of the pass. It is recommended that all team members wear galoshes while climbing.

Section R0–R1. The ascent begins on inclined slabs for 5–8 m, then left and up through a small cornice (difficult passage) along a 20 m wall, traverse 5 m to a shelf — insurance point.

Section R1–R2. Up the wall left and up under the cornice. The cornice is overcome with the help of a ladder, followed by a traverse to the right to an inner corner, along the inner corner to the right up the wall for 5 m, exit to a 2×8 m shelf. First control point.

Section R2–R3. Up the crack (no holds in the crack area) for 15 m — difficult free climbing, pass on ladders using boxes and ice pitons. Before exiting, the crack overhangs — pass only with the help of a ladder, holds are practically absent. After exiting — medium-difficulty climbing for 7 m, then to the right along a hollow — easy rocks — under the left part of a large cornice (a rock with a hole).

Section R3–R4. The cornice is bypassed to the left of a large rock — 10 m up, then left traverse for 25 m along smoothed slabs (difficult free climbing, passed with a rope — feet on friction, hands on an inclined shelf). The traverse leads to a scree shelf.

Section R4–R5. Up and left from the insurance point along an inner corner (difficult climbing) for 15 m, then along the inner corner — under a small overhang for 20 m. Insurance point — standing on a ladder.

Section R5–R6. To the right under a small overhang — difficult climbing for 30 m. It is recommended to organize an insurance point under the overhang, as a convenient insurance platform after the overhang is sometimes "shot" with rocks from above.

Section R6–R7. Up a faintly expressed inner corner for 7 m and up a vertical crack for 10 m (difficult climbing), then 10 m along wet inclined slabs — to the right, exit to an inclined shelf. Under a large rock — second control point.

Section R7–R8. Up a slab for 6 m, then up and right along an inclined scree shelf (caution — "live rocks" which, if dropped, "go" along the inner corner of section R5–R6). Along inclined slabs — to a large shelf. Overnight is possible on the shelf.

Section R8–R9. Very difficult traverse to the left under a bastion (border of snow and rocks, loose small rocks, slabs are smoothed, pitons "go" poorly). Cross very carefully!

Section R9–R10. From under the overhang at the beginning of the bastion, left — into an inner corner (difficult exit!). Then on a ladder, pass the next overhang for 3 m through a crack. Up a chimney for 10 m, then to the right for 5 m and organize an insurance point on the wall.

Section R10–R11. From the insurance point up the wall (caution, after 8 m a difficult section with brittle holds begins). Another 10 m up and to the right and up along a small chimney, exit to a small shelf — a convenient place for insurance.

Section R11–R12. From the shelf up a chimney for 15 m of difficult climbing (2 m after the shelf, better use a ladder). Continuing to move along medium-difficulty rocks, after 20–25 m exit to the pre-summit ridge.

Section R12–R13. Along the ridge simultaneously to the right for 40 m, then with running belay exit to the summit of Pik Vladivostok.

Descent via route cat. III, 3B.

Section R2–R3

Section R6–R7 (climber under the cornice before chiseling)