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Report on the first ascent of the route of 6A category of complexity to Shokoladny peak via "mirrors" of the Southwest wall in the Caucasus.

Rock climbing Classification Commission Alpinism Federation of Russia

Report

on the first ascent of the route to Shokoladny Peak (3650 m) via the "mirrors" of the Southwest wall (proposed 6A category), made by the team of Poltava Regional Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Leader: Pugachev S.A., Master of Sports, instructor-methodologist category II Coach: Zagirnyak M.V., Honored Trainer of Ukraine, Master of Sports

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Description of the climbing route to the summit Alyr-Su-Bashi (4370 m) via the north-western ridge, complexity category 3B.

AADIP-CY-5ALUU 4370 m

3. Route Description

Route of ascent to the summit ALYR-SU-BASHI via the northwest ridge (4370 m) Route category 3B The summit ALYR-SU-BASHI is located in the northern Alyr spur of the Main Caucasian Range, between the Goudunov and Granovsky passes. Three ridges radiate from the summit:

  • to the North
  • to the Northwest
  • to the South A counterforce extends eastward to the Bashdy glacier.
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Report on the first ascent to the summit of Kion via the 3A category route on the South face of the East shoulder.

REPORT

On the first ascent to the peak of Kion, via the route South wall of the Eastern shoulder by the team of AK "Kaskad" 2024

I. Ascent Report

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the team leaderEgorin Sergey Vladimirovich, Master of Sports.
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsPuzyrev Dmitry Vyacheslavovich — 2nd sports rank, Bryukhina Anastasia Vasilievna — 2nd sports rank.
1.3Full name of the coachEgorin Sergey Vladimirovich
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Report on the first ascent of a Category 3A route on the southern wall of **Giryag** peak in Ingushetia on October 29, 2020.

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF GIRIAG VIA THE SOUTH FACE ROUTE OF 3A DIFFICULTY CATEGORY BY THE TEAM OF MOUNTAINEERING CAMPS MANAGEMENT FOR THE PERIOD FROM OCTOBER 29, 2020 TO OCTOBER 29, 2020

I. Ascent Passport

№№ p.p.1. General Information
1.1Full Name, sports rank of the team leaderKergin Ivan Vasilyevich — 2nd sports rank
1.2Full Name, sports rank of the team membersSmorodina Natalia Valeryevna — 3rd sports rank
1.3Full Name of the coachYakovenko Alexander Nikolayevich — Master of Sports
1.4OrganizationMountaineering Camps Management
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
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Report on the first ascent of Adдала-Shukhgelmeэр Mountain (4151 m) via the North-East wall in 1984, category of difficulty 5B.

PASSPORT

  1. The route is combined
  2. East Caucasus 2.9, Kila River valley
  3. Mt. Addala-Shukhgelmeer (4151) via the north-eastern wall.
  4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
  5. Route characteristics: a. Elevation gain: 1100 m. b. Average steepness of main sections: 68° (3250–4080 m) c. Length: 1550 m (II cat. — 350 m; III cat. — 340 m; IV cat. — 460 m; V cat. — 400 m.)
  6. Pitons driven:
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First ascent to the summit Butnubmez Glavny (3932 m) by the northwest couloir and Jnmu ridge, 2A category of complexity.

ASCENT REPORT I. Category of the first ascent. 2. 2.10. Dagestan mountains, Nukatl ridge, Kabza gorge. 3. Butnubmeer Glavny peak, 3932 m, via North-West couloir and South ridge, combined route. 4. Proposed: first ascent, cat. 2A difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, route length 1200 m, including 1st cat. difficulty – 660 m, 2nd cat. difficulty – 450 m, 3rd cat. difficulty – 80 m, 4th cat. difficulty – 10 m, average steepness 40°. 6. Pitons driven – 2, snow anchors placed – 3, pitons left on the route – 1. 7. Climbing hours – 4. 8. No bivouacs. Overnight stay in BL, in Kabza gorge (2800 m). 9. Leader:

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Description of the Dubovikov route on Erydag (5A) with comments and details of the ascent, based on the experience of climbing in February 2020.

A couple of comments after the ascent — February 2020 — on the Dubovikova route on Erydag 5A.

Section 0–1

At the starting point — 2 internal corners — we climbed the right one. The start is with a lift, then it "climbs" 2-3 times — stood in the runner loop. There is at least 1 bolted hook on the section. The start on the left corner seems easier, but then you might want to switch to the right one. Section 1–2: everything is logical, no comments. Section 2–3 on the cornice — several pitons (bolted hooks), (didn't climb out). From point 3, the crack of section 4–5 is clearly visible (at the very beginning of the grotto, the left part of the grotto).

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Report on the ascent of the Saint Petersburg Alpine Federation team to the summit of Selda via the South-West wall, complexity category 3A.

Report

of the St. Petersburg Alpine Federation team on the ascent of Sel'dy peak (3664 m) via the Southwest wall The proposed category of complexity is 3A

Eastern Caucasus.

Team leader: Kirill A. Mazurov Team coach: Tatiana I. Timoshenko St. Petersburg 2017

Ascent Passport

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First ascent of Shalbuzdag Northeast Peak (3500 m) via the right bastion gully on the south face, March 3-4, 1998, category 5A.

Ascent Passport

  1. Winter ascent class.
  2. Region 2.10 mountains of Dagestan, Chekhychay gorge, Shalbuzdag ridge.
  3. Shalbuzdag North-Eastern, 3500 m, via the gap in the right bastion of the South wall.
  4. 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: Height difference: route — 230 m, wall — 210 m (from 3270 m to 3480 m), average steepness of the wall — 70°, route length 506 m, wall section 246 m, section lengths:
    • 1 — 250 m
    • 2 — 20 m
    • 3 — 38 m
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Report on the passage of a 4A category route to the summit Dolomit Severny via the right part of the western wall.

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Dolomit Severny via the right part of the western wall, category 4A by the team led by Popov V.I.

I. Climbing Passport

1. General Information
Full Name, sports rank of the leaderMorozov A.E., CMS
Full Name, sports rank of the participantsBaib G.A., Shironin D.S., 2nd sports rank
Full Name of the coachPopov V.I.
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object
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