REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. "Dzhailyk" (4533 m) via the Southwest Counterfort of the Western Ridge by the Dzhailyk Alpine Camp team (first ascent) Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich 1983 Alpine Camp "Dzhailyk" 360 000 Nalchik, P.O. Box 47 Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich 141 400 Moscow Region, Khimki, Aptechnaya St., 6, apt. 17 Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich

I. Technical difficulty category 2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge 3. Peak Dzhadlyk via the West counterfort of the Western ridge 4533. 4. Proposed — 4th category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1025 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 7° (3870–4350), including 6th category of difficulty — 85° (3870–3900) 90° (3930–3940), 90° (4140–4155), 85° (4170 — traverse 20 m) 6. Pitons hammered in: rock (65+5ˣ)/12 6/4

PASSPORT

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge.
3. To Jailyk via the South ridge.
4. Category 5A.
5. Route length 803 m. Steepness of the main part of the route (wall) — 90 (R6–R15).
6. Pitons hammered: | Rock | Nut | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :-: | | 34/5X | 22/4X | 0/0 |

Dzhailyk via Western Ridge (V. Ruzhevsky route, 5A cat.) The route is sometimes called “Women's Five” or “Dombay Five”, implying easy dry rocks (up to cat. V) that can be realistically climbed in a day even by women. We have a good opinion about women climbers, as this route is not that easy; moreover, in bad weather it becomes virtually impassable, unlike “Monakh”.

• A bivouac can be set up at “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki” (Upper Kichkidar Camps) or on the saddle below Donkin Pass.
• From the Western Yunom Glacier, move from the bivouac to the base of the Western Ridge of Dzhailyk peak.
• Via the avalanche debris and ice-snow slope of the Central couloir, along the rocks on the left side, approach the first inner corner at the base of the Western Ridge.
• From “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki” it takes about 1 hour. From here:
• Up the moderately difficult 30-meter inner corner, then via smoothed steep 40–50-meter slabs ascend to the Western Ridge of Dzhailyk peak.
• Via monolithic steep slabs of above-average difficulty with short difficult walls on the Western Ridge, ascend 200–250 m to the Lower Triangle summit plateau.
• From the plateau, 50–60 m up a steep smoothed slab of above-average difficulty, then 30 m up a wall with a chimney-crack to a rock outcrop.

Ascent Passport

1. Technical grade
2. Caucasus. Adyr-su gorge
3. Djailik via the left part of the 1st South Western ridge (M. Franzuzov's route variant, 70)
4. First ascent of a new 5A variant approximately
5. Height difference: 600 m Length: 1000 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade: 40 m Average steepness of the wall part of the route: 67° Height difference of the wall part: 150 m

Ascent Passport

I. Technical category 2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su, Kulumkol valleys 3. Jailyk peak via the right edge of the 1st Southern bastion of the Western ridge, 4533 m 4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent 5. Height difference: 730 m, length — 1015 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 240 m. Average steepness of the wall section of the route — 79° (3850–4100 m), including 6 cat. diff. — 75–95° (3905–4050 m) 6. Pitons hammered:

• rock: 53 (hammered) / 50 (left)
• bolt: 12 / 4
• chocks: 85 / 70

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, branching off from Mestia-tau peak, Djailyk knot between Donkin and Killar passes.
3. Peak — its height, ascent route: Djailyk 4533 m, combined route via south-southwest wall of the southern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 890 m.
   • Average steepness up to the summit ridge: 64°.
   • Average steepness of the most difficult "key" part of the route: 89°.

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge
3. Jailyk peak via the West face of the South shoulder, D. Laskavyi route, 1978, cat. 5B
4. Height difference 850 m
5. Average slope 58°
6. Length of sections with cat. 5–6 difficulty – 157 m
7. Pitons used:

   Category	For belay	For artificial climbing

North Caucasus and Southern Federal Districts Climbing Championship

high-altitude technical class

REPORT

On the ascent of Jailyk peak via the 3rd wall of the S. shoulder of the S. ridge (D. Laskavy's route) 5B category of complexity by the team from Rostov Region for the period from July 24–25, 2024.

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: