Ai-Petri Uzunkol — description of the 1B alpinist route from SK Greta

Route description:

From the "Uzunkol" base, cross the bridge to the right bank of the Uzunkol river, then downstream along the bank to the third (from the bridge) green couloir. Go up along it to the left — along the stream (no trail) to the uppermost grassy saddle in the first (it's always on the right) rocky ridge. From the base — 2 hours. Through the saddle, enter the neighboring talus cirque of Ai-Petri, cross it, and approach the base of the lateral rocky couloir, which divides the visible part of the summit slope in half. The landmark for the entrance to the couloir is a separate rocky outcrop. To the right of it are "ram's foreheads", to the left — a grassy slope with rocky outcrops. Higher up, the rocks turn into walls of reddish color.

Ak-Bashi from Ak Pass, combined, 2A

Route description:

From "Trud" campsite ascend snowy talus slopes to the foot of Ak Pass. Reach the pass via talus slope with small ledges. From the pass, follow the ridge left, bypassing the first sentinel on the right. In the first half of summer, when the ledges are covered with snow, the sentinel is ascended "head-on" along its crest. Then, via ledges right of the ridge, reach its snowy section. Ascend 400-meter snowy ridge to a saddle before the first summit. The summit is ascended via broken rocks. Descend from the summit into a gap along the right side of the ridge (loose rocks!). From here, via talus gully and broken ridge, ascend the main summit of Ak-Bashi. 6 hours from the campsite. Descent from the summit via the ascent route to the campsite takes 3 hours.

• Departure time from the campsite should be no later than 5:00;
• Ascending to Lozhny Ak Pass is not recommended as snow slabs are possible on the slope at the beginning of summer, and a steep glacier becomes exposed by the pass in autumn.

Aktur Uzunkol — description of the 1B alpinist route from SK Greta

Route description: The trail to Ak pass begins from the first tributary flowing into the Myrdy river below the first bridge from the top on the right bank, and leads left along the trail upwards along steep grassy slopes in the direction of the Pyramida peak. After 1.5 hours, the slope becomes gentler, and the trail goes along small rocky-grassy terraces. 40 minutes later, on one of the terraces to the left of the trail, on a wonderful lawn thickly overgrown with grass, next to a crossing stream, there are good places for tents, no firewood. A couple of rocky-grassy ascents lead to the glacier flowing from under the Pyramida and Ak-bashi peaks. We ascend to the glacier to the right along the trail via small and medium talus and snowfields and enter a small glacial cirque north of the Ak-bashi peak, ending with a ridge of heavily destroyed rocks. A small depression in the ridge is the Ak pass. Orienting our movement towards the saddle of the pass, we cross the glacier and ascend to the pass via snow and then destroyed rocks. From the pass, we ascend to the peak via a snowy (at the end of summer — talus) slope. Descent is via the ascent route. Path chronometry:

• ascent to the tongue of the glacier — 3 hours;
• along the glacier to the pass — 1 hour;

Passport

Ascent to the "Bezымянная" peak via the southwest ridge

1. Class of ascent — technical.
2. Area of ascent — Caucasus, Bezengi area, southwest spur of Dykh-Tau (Fig. 1).
3. "Bezымянная" peak 4050 m, in the spur of Dykh-Tau (Fig. 2).
4. Proposed category — 3.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1300 m; b) route length — 900–1100 m of snow-ice slope; c) average steepness — 35–45°.

Gvandra in Uzunkol — description of the 1B alpine route

From the Myrdal bivouac, ascend via talus and moraines to the snowy slopes on the right. Climb them to reach the plateau of the Myrdal glacier. On the right part of the glacier, via a snow-ice slope, bypassing a rocky outcrop on the right, reach the Ak-Tyube pass, located to the left of the Gvandara Malaya peak. From the bivouac — 2.5 hours. At the pass, turn left and follow the snowy ascents of Gvandara Vostochnaya's eastern ridge to its rocky section:

• Bypass the rocks on the left, along the boundary between snow and rock (protection needed!);
• Then, ascend along the 300-meter snowy ridge — a "knife-edge" (beware of cornices!) to the subpeak. By the end of summer, there may be exposed sections with regelation ice on the ridge. Possibly of interest to you: msklaser.ru — metal flashlights at the best prices in Moscow! From the subpeak, follow the left side of the ridge (with huge cornices on the right!) with steep snowy ascents to reach Gvandara Vostochnaya. From Ak-Tyube pass — 4 hours. Descend via the ascent route. Possibly of interest to you.

Gvandra East Peak

Ascent from the col between Srednyaya and East peaks, cat. II. For the approach to the col, see the description of the traverse of Srednyaya and Main Gvandra. From the col, ascend the snowfield to a snowy gendarme and descend from it to a lowering in the ridge. Bypass the first rocky "finger" on the right via an inside corner, 5 m — piton! Descend into a gap to the 2nd "finger" along the snowy ridge. Bypass the next "finger" on the left along the snow. Careful belaying — the snow layer is very thin on the slabs and on the rolled-in ice! The third "finger" is a monolithic rocky block of reddish color — pass it on the left along a chip — pitons! Belay! The rest of the group members can go left of the chip using a fixed rope. From the "finger" top, descend along the snow to the col to the last gendarme-"finger". Bypass it on the left along a ledge with an overhanging slab — belay! Piton! — and reach the rocky ridge, which leads to the eastern peak. From the col to the summit — 3–3.5 hours.

GVANDRA PEAK – 3993 m

1. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak from Ak-Tyube Pass – Cat. 1B
2. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak via the northern edge from Ak-Tyube Glacier – Cat. 2B (Description of the route as you move towards the peak) Difficulties
3. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak – Cat. 1B The path to the bivouac is described in the description of the Kara-Baschi peak. From the bivouac:

• straight across the moraine to the Morde Glacier;

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Uzunkol tourist center, Western Caucasus
3. Ascent route — Gvandra East peak 3900 m via the eastern ridge
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3A category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics — height difference 700 m, average slope 45°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying: — rock: II — ice: 2

Гре­ве­ив от Цен­тр. Гва­ид­рь к Вос­то­чно­му — 2–5 км. becomes Distance from Tsentr. Gvaidry to Vostochny — 2–5 km.

GvandrauZunkol — description of the climbing route "ZA" from SK Greta

Route description:

From the Myrdy bivouac, ascend via scree and moraines to the snowy slopes on the right. Climb the slopes to reach the Myrdy glacier plateau. From the plateau, move towards the Western summit of Myrdy. Ascend via snowy slopes and a wide couloir to the right of the summit to reach the Lozhny Myrdy pass. The Eastern ridge (second from the Ak-Tyube pass) is located opposite this pass. If approaching the ridge from the pass, then:

• Cross the plateau perpendicular to the pass saddle
• Ascend to the right lower part of the ridge rocks via snowy (steep at the top) slopes