Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Peak 3352 "Altyn" via the North-Eastern ridge, category 2B, by the team of AUSB Uzunkol from Stavropol on August 14, 2023.

I. Ascent Passport

Bazaryurt

via NW ridge by Baranov S. N. East Caucasus 2.11 PASSPORT

1. Route type — combined
2. East Caucasus, Yatukh-Dere, Shakhnabad, Kusar-Chay gorges
3. Bazaryurt via North-West ridge
4. Presumably 1B category of complexity — first ascent
5. Height difference — 926 m, length — 2450 m

Route Description

The peak named after Manshuk Mametova, a glorious daughter of the Kazakh people and a Hero of the Soviet Union, is located in the main ridge of the Maloalmatinsky spur. To the south of it lies the peak Antikainen, and to the north lies the pass of the same name (3750 m). From the Mynzhilki weather station:

• Cross the Malaya Almatinka river.
• Go around the ancient moraines of the Manshuk Mametova glacier and the western ridge of the Antikainen peak.
• Move along the foot of the ridge, gradually gaining altitude.
• Ascend via the right lateral moraine of the Mayakovsky glacier to the last couloir descending from the southern side of the western ridge of the Antikainen peak. Ascend the couloir to its fork and continue along the right branch (the rocks are crumbling, be careful!). Then, via the talus on the left side of the couloir, reach the junction of the lateral and main ridges. Cross the talus and reach the main ridge. The Antikainen peak rises insignificantly above the ridge and is an acute tower with a cairn (tur) on it. The route continues north along the snowy ridge, which leads to a large gendarme with sheer walls. The gendarme is easily bypassed from the western side via a huge depression. Behind it lies a snow-ice ridge 100–120 m long. Here, one should stay on the western side, as the ridge drops to the east with a wall and cornices, leading to the rocky massif of the Manshuk Mametova peak.

Partizan 2B cat. via West face from Ledik Igla

Route description.

The summit of Partizan is located in the main ridge of the Malo-Almatinsky spur. It rises with two rocky towers above its snowy-ice foundation. From the south, the peak is connected to the peaks of Igly Tuyksu by a long, heavily serrated rocky ridge; to the north lies the peak of Ordzhonikidze. They are connected by a 200-meter snow-ice ridge with powerful cornices on its eastern side. From here, the Partizan glacier flows down to the west. The initial bivouac can be conveniently set up on the moraine of the Igly Tuyksu glacier. The ascent begins by approaching the base of the left snow-ice couloir adjacent to the massif of the Ordzhonikidze peak. Traverse the narrowest part of the couloir and exit onto the ice slope. Belaying is with pitons. Crampons are necessary. If the ice sections are heavily exposed, one can:

• turn left onto the rocks
• ascend them with piton belaying to the upper snowy slope
• move along the slope towards the northern tower of Partizan

Tuyuksu via North Ridge from the Tuyuksu Iglau Glacier, 3B cat.

Route description.

Cross the Tuyuksu glacier in its initial part, move to the right lateral moraine, reach the Tuyuksu Iglau Glacier and follow it to the rocky ridge located on the north-north-eastern slope of the summit massif. The ascent begins here. The first rock is bypassed on the right via a snowy-icy couloir with an exit to the saddle. Further, the path goes along easy rocks to a 15-meter rock wall, with piton belay. A new section of easy rocks leads to a 20-meter rock wall. It can be overcome:

• via a narrow cornice on the left side
• on the right via inclined slabs (caution! "live" stones)

I. Climbing category — rock. 2. Climbing area: Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloalmatinskoye gorge. 3. Peak, its height, climbing route: p. Uчитель (Teacher), 4030 m, Southwest counterfort. 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 4B. 5. Route characteristics — rock route, height difference 400 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 115 m, average steepness — 70°. 6. Number of pitons: rock — 32 (including 4 for creating intermediate belay anchors); ice — not used; bolt pitons — not used; clamps — 2 pieces. 7. Number of climbing hours — 13 (including 3 hours spent on route preparation). 8. Surname, first name, patronymic of the leader, participants, their qualification.

1. Shapovalov Valery Nikolayevich — 1st sports category (leader)
2. Merkeev Sultan Nurtayevich — 2nd sports category (participant)

Route Description

The starting point of the route is described in the ascent description to the summit of Uchitel 2A cat. sl. from the East. Further path follows the ridge connecting both summits. The first and second gendarmes are bypassed on the left. The remaining ones are overcome head-on. Then a неслож­ный спуск (easy descent) into the pass, movement along the ridge to the very summit of Pioner. The descent from the summit is to the left along the ridge to the Pioner­sky pass (3870 m), from it to the moraine of the Mametova glacier and along the trail to return to the initial bivouac. The traverse takes 7–8 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac at the Alpin­grad site.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• main rope — 2×40 m
• expendable repschnur — 5–6 m

Northern ex­co­nus

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class 2. Ascent Area 3. Peak, its height, ascent route 4. Proposed difficulty category 5. Route characteristics: 6. Number of pitons for belay and descent organization: 7. Number of travel hours 8. Number of nights and their characteristics first ascent Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ala-Archa tourist center; Ak-Sai glacier cirque. v. Korona (I-st tower),

Route Description:

The ascent to Chugur Pass (following the "Kichkinekol from Chugur Pass" route) is to the right of the "Parus" rock. From Kichkinekol Pass, it takes 2 hours. From the pass, follow the right side of the 500-meter ridge, initially a broken rocky ridge (watch out for cornices on the left!), then a snowy ridge to reach the summit. From Chugur Pass, it takes 2.5 hours. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route to Chugur Pass and takes 1.5 hours.

• When ascending from the northern side, from Chugur valley, set up the initial bivouac under the Chugur glacier on the right lateral moraine, on the shore of a dried-up lake. From here, the ascent to Chugur Pass goes along the right side of the snowy slopes of the glacier, then up a steep (up to 40°) 80-meter snowy slope.