Report

on the ascent to the summit 3423 m (peak NPI) via the western ridge from Otryog pass, presumably category 1B, first ascent

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Western Caucasus, Aксаут region, Bolshaya Marka valley, section 2.2 of the classifier of routes to mountain peaks.
2. Summit: 3423 m (peak NPI), via the western ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference: 150 m (total – 650 m) Route length (technical part): 250 m. Length of sections with category III difficulty: 100 m.

Fig. 33

8. Ascent to Mitnikov Peak (3700 m) via the Eastern Ridge — Cat. 3B (Fig. 33)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, follow the trail, then cross the Dombay River via a ford, and ascend along grassy slopes, scree, and rocky outcrops on the left side of the Inye Glacier (in rope connections on the glacier!) to a snow plateau. Continue:

• Left — ascend to the col between Maly Inye Peak (Zoloto Peak) and the spur of the Eastern summit of Jughuturuchat.
• Cross the col and exit onto the Eastern Jughuturuchat Glacier (the glacier is avalanche-prone,

PASSPORT

1. Category — rock.
2. Caucasus, Aksaut gorge.
3. Marukh-kaya peak via the N slope and W ridge.
4. Proposed — 3A cat. diff. (combined), first ascent.
5. Height difference — 400 m, length — 650 m. Average steepness of the route — 35–40°.
6. Pits were not left on the route.
7. Climbing hours on the route — 8.
8. Overnight stops — I (on Marukhkay pass).

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - technical 2. Ascent area - Main Caucasian Ridge and its spurs from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass. 3. Peak (height, name) - Marukh-Kaya, 3700 m, northeast wall. 4. Proposed category of complexity - 4A. 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 700 m; average steepness - 60°; length of sections - 55 m, 5-6 pitches. 6. Pitons hammered: for belay, for creation of I.T.O. rock - 22 ice - bolts -

Fig. 3

2. Ascent to the Marukh-bashi summit via the northern ridge — category 3B difficulty (Fig. 3B)

From the Yuzhno-Karakayskiy pass (overnight stay on the moraine under the pass) ascend up to the right along the snow to the right side of the ridge to the rocks. Then move left along the rocks for 60 m and reach the main ridge. Along the heavily fragmented rocks of the main ridge (rockfall hazard!) ascend 90 m upwards and continue along the clearly defined ridge to the slabs. Bypass the slabs on the right (40–50 m) and reach the first ascent. From the ridge, move right to bypass the ascent (8 m), then climb 20 m upwards along the wall of the ascent (piton protection!) and reach the

Fig. 3

1. Ascent to the Marukh-bashi summit (3798 m) via the southeastern ridge — category III difficulty (Fig. 3A)

From the bivouac on the South Karakay glacier — ascend to the saddle in the southern ridge between the Marukh-kaya and Marukh-bashi peaks. From the glacier, cross the bergschrund and then ascend a steep snowy slope for 150–170 m (belay!) to a rocky outcrop, and on its left side, reach the snowy slope above the rocky outcrop. Ascend the snowy slope with a steepness of 55–60° for 130–150 m (belay!), exit onto the ridge to the right of the first gendarme, and then continue along the ridge to the second gendarme. To ascend the second gendarme, initially climb straight up (slabby rocks, piton belay!), then traverse 8–10 m under the top of the gendarme to the left along ledges, and

Bolshaya Marka

Fig. 11

Ascent to Bolshaya Marka peak (3768 m) - Cat. 1B (Fig. 11)

From Dombay plain, take the road to the "Alibek" alpine camp and continue on the trail to "Semidesyatitrekh" pass. The journey from Dombay plain takes 5-6 hours. From the pass, descend north down a steep snowy slope (ensure belaying!), then traverse scree and grassy slopes to reach a meadow in the Kiche-Teberda gorge. Set up a bivouac. The total time from Dombay plain is 8-9 hours. Continue by traversing a grassy slope (under the trigonometric point) upwards to the left, towards the western edge of the ridge. Then, proceed up a large scree slope into a hanging valley bounded by the southwest ridge on the right and the west ridge of Bolshaya Marka peak on the left. A high rock face is visible on the slope of the western ridge. Ascend the slope under the rock face, bypass it on the left, and continue up the slope to the northern buttress of the peak. Traverse scree to reach the col between the peak and a large gendarme. Then:

• proceed right-upwards along a rocky slope (weathered rocks!),
• reach the ridge,
• then traverse ledges to the summit.

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, Daut valley, classification table number 2.2
2. Peak Kyshkadzher 3837 m (by GPS), via the 3rd ridge
3. Category of difficulty — 4A (presumably), first ascent
4. Route character — rocky
5. Height difference of the route — 260 m Route length — 760 m. Average steepness of the route — 28°
6. Total equipment used: Rock pitons — 7, Nuts — 37
7. Left on the route during descent — 1 bolt piton

Ascent Record

1. Ascent level — technically challenging
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus
3. Peak, its height, ascent route —

• Zapadnaya Klukhor-Kaya, 3500 m, via the northwest ridge

4. Category of difficulty — 3B
5. Route characteristics — height difference 800 m, average slope 40–45 degrees
6. Total climbing hours — 16–18
7. Overnight stay — on Hokkel Glacier
8. Group composition:

Fig.­ 1

3.­ Ascent to the summit Uzlovaya Kara-kaya (Zapadnaya Dvuushka, 3620­ m) from the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass — category of difficulty (see Fig.­ 1)

From the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass, first along a steep (45–50°) snowy slope, and then along the ledges upwards to the slab (protection!). Under the slab, along the ledges to the right and on the right side of the slab (piton protection!) — exit upwards to the ridge. Further along the right side of the ridge (simple rocks, but heavily destroyed, prone to rockfall!) — ascent to the ledge with several pinnacles. Under the ledge, exit to the left side of the ridge and along the moderately difficult rocks (protection through the ledges!) — ascent to the yellow ascent. Bypassing the yellow ascent first on the left 5–6 m, and then up the crack