Report

On the ascent of Peak Shchurovsky via the West face (through the "Gendarme" "Surkov")

Central Council of the DSO "Avangard"

Kiev — 1967

Data on team members

32. Western summit of Elbrus via the Western shoulder (route category 2B, fig. 8–10). From the village of Terskol, ascend first along the road, then along the trail on the right side of the Azausue valley and, after 4 hours, reach the initial bivouac at the Old Panoramic Viewpoint (Stary Krogzor) located on the southernmost (southeastern) spur of the Elbrus massif. From the Panoramic Viewpoint (departure at 2–3 am) turn left and via the moraine, and then along the Maly Azau glacier, reach the snowy plateau. Across the plateau (covered crevices!), then along a small, gently sloping snowy slope, reach the rocky ridge to the right (north) of the Khotiu-Tau pass and the Nameless avalanche glacier descending into the Ullukam valley. From the Old Panoramic Viewpoint, 4–4.5 hours. Here, turn right and along the simple rocks of the ridge, reach the rocky ridge descending into the Ullukam valley, along the right bank of the avalanche glacier. Traverse this ridge and along simple, in places moderately difficult, destroyed, snow-covered (cornices!) rocks of the ridge, ascending in the direction of the Western shoulder, reach the snowy ridge. Along the sharp (cornices!), then wide snowy ridge, ascend to the Western shoulder of the Elbrus massif. On a small snowy saddle to the right of the shoulder — bivouac. From the Khotiu-Tau pass, 3–5 hours. From the saddle, ascend northeast along the snowy fields with gradually increasing steepness, traverse left to avoid the Western summit of Elbrus and reach below the northwestern rocky ridge of the Western summit. From here, along the simple rocks of the ridge or along the snow beside the rocks — a steep ascent to the Western summit of the Elbrus massif. From the shoulder, 5–6 hours.

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Pik Kavkaz Zapadny (4037 m) — first passage of the route via the North-Eastern wall, cat. diff. 3A by the team St. Petersburg-2 from February 2 to 3, 2020.

I. Ascent Report

69. Ai­lama via South­east Ridge (com­bi­na­tion route, E. Abal­a­kov, cat.5B, fig. 5, 15, 16). From Tsurun­galskaya saddle of the Main Caucasus Range (point 65, 63):

• 250–300 m up­wards over rocks of medium dif­fi­cul­ty be­low the first rock tur­ret of Ai­lama South­east Ridge;
• 200–220 m up­wards over rocks of me­dium-above dif­fi­cul­ty and dif­fi­cult rocks, cor­n­ers, couloirs to the tur­ret's shoulder;
• 50–60 m along a nar­row ledge on the left from the shoulder;
• 120 m up­wards over snow­cov­ered, de­stroyed rocks of me­dium dif­fi­cul­ty of the couloir to the snow col be­hind the I tur­ret.

74. Aylama via the II bastion of the South Face (a combined route, Sh. Margiani, 5B cat., fig. 5, 15, 16). From the platform at the top of the Left Rib (point 72):

• 150 m up a steep snow-ice slope to the bergschrund;
• after crossing the bergschrund, ascend 40 m up a steep snow-ice slope to the rocks on the right side of the III bastion;
• from here, 40 m across simple rocks. Up to the wall. 30 m up difficult rocks of the wall with a crack onto a ledge. Then directly up 8–10 m across rocks of medium difficulty, then 12 m up the wall to a small platform, from where there is a 40 m ascent up rocks of medium difficulty to a platform under a large boulder. From the platform on the Left Rib, it takes 3–4 hours.

79. Ailama via North Face (the route is combined, V. Ivanova, 5B cat. diff., fig. 5, 17, 19). To the right of the Nuam-Kuam glacier (pic. 78) descend under the North Face of Ailama peak and, having passed under it (closed crevices, landslides, avalanches), approach the first right rocky counterfort of the North-East ridge of Ailama. From here, from the plateau upwards along the steep ice-and-snow slope to the first rocky outcrop of the counterfort. From the outcrop traverse upwards — to the right along the ice-and-snow slope with the intersection of ice gullies and two rocky outcrops to approach under the middle of the Lower (I) narrow rocky belt of the North Face of Ailama (stones, avalanches, landslides). Along steep rocks of above average difficulty 20–30 m up to the I rocky belt. From it 200–300 m up to under the II wide rocky belt to the right of a small snow patch. Along a difficult wall with two small shelves 50–60 m up to a wide shelf. On the shelf a sitting bivouac is possible. From the shelf 50–60 m up along steep rocks of above average difficulty (“live” stones) to the II rocky belt. From it 150–200 m up along a steep ice-and-snow slope to under the III rocky belt. Along difficult rocks of the wall 50–60 m up to a small site. On the site — a bivouac. From the initial bivouac — 12–14 hours. From the site along icy rocks of above average difficulty 30–40 m up to the III belt. Further 300–350 m up along a steep ice-and-snow slope with rocky outcrops to under the IV rocky belt. Along difficult rocks of the wall 10–12 m up to shelves. Along them 25–30 m up-to-the-right and through a difficult 5–6-meter wall exit to a wide shelf. Further:

• Along the shelf 30 m up-to-the-left
• Up 15 m along rocks of medium difficulty

73. Aylama via the III Bastion of the South Face (combined route, Sh. Margiani, 5B cat. dif., fig. 5, 15, 16). From the ledge at the top of the Left Edge (point 72):

• 150 m up a steep snow-ice slope.
• Having overcome or bypassed the bergschrund via difficult rocks on the left, ascend 80–100 m up a steep snow-ice couloir along the rocks on the right side of the III Bastion.
• Then turn left and up:
  • 40 m via difficult rocks of the wall,
  • then 40 m via moderately difficult rocks.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

19

1. Climbing category — rock climbing
2. Climbing area, ridge — Main Caucasian Ridge from Kitlod pass to Gezevtsеg pass.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — traverse of Belaya Neznakomka (4200) — Chyornaya Neznakomka (4100) with ascent to the South Gendarme of Belaya Neznakomka via the southeast wall.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference 600–700 m; b) average steepness — 60°
6. Pitons hammered: — for belay, for intermediate rock anchors: 35 — ice screws: 6

41. Be­laia Ne­zna­kom­ka via the South­west Ridge of the Main Ridge’s (MR) Junction Pillar (combined route, Sh. Dadesh­keliani, 4A cat. dif., fig. 5, 8). From the “Zes­ho” al­plager down along the road. Past the second bridge, turn right into the first right lateral gorge. Having passed the farm, along the trail, and then along the grassy talus, reach the moraine areas at the upper (left) part of the terminal left-bank moraine of the Neznakomka Glacier. Initial bivouac. 2–2.5 hours from the “Zesho” alplager. From the Moraine areas (departure at 3–4 am), ascend 150–200 m traversing right along the snow-firn slope of the Black Neznakomka’s Main couloir. Then traverse up and right along the ice-snow slope left of the central “ram’s foreheads” of the gorge and the ice falls of the glacier lying above them until you reach the left side of

Report on the ascent via the Central Bastion of the northern wall of Peak Burovsky (via the center of the bastion)

List of participants in the assault group

TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the northern wall.

• Height difference of the route: 1060 m
  • Including the most challenging sections: 410 m
• Steepness of the route: 80–90°
  • Including the most challenging sections: 80–90° | Date | Section № | Steepness of the section | Height of the section, in m | Terrain characteristics | Technical difficulties | Type of belay | Weather conditions | Departure time | Time of stopping at bivouac | Travel hours | Rock pitons | Ice screws | Bolts | Dural and wooden wedges | Bivouac conditions | Weight of daily ration, in grams |