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Ascent Passport

1. Class — technical.

2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge.

3. Summit — Treshkova Peak via the North-Eastern spur (height 4870 m).

4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A.

5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 870 m,
• average steepness — 46°,

Ascent Passport

I. Category of technically complex ascents 2. Pamir-Alay. Alay Ridge. Podkova Kosmonavtov. 3. Titov Peak (approximately 4800 m) via the northern counterfort. 4. 4B category of difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: a) height difference 700 m; b) length of section with IV–V category of difficulty 350 m; c) average steepness 53°. 6. Pitons hammered for belay and creating ITO:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class - technically challenging.
2. Ascent area -
3. Peak Uzbekistan 5150 m above sea level via the left bastion of the northeast wall.
4. Difficulty category - approximately 5B.
5. Route characteristics height difference 935 m average steepness 75° length of sections | I | II | III | IV | V | VI |

Dugoba alpine camp 5.1A 105. IIIa Report on the ascent of Pik Uzbekistan via the North-Eastern wall 1976 Protocol No. 81 from August 30, 1976, reviewing the ascent of Pik Uzbekistan, category 5B, via the NE wall, "credited". Present: the group in full:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: technical
2. Ascent region: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
3. Ascent route: Peak Uzbekistan 5140 m (via the ice board of the northern wall)
4. Route characteristics height difference: 1050 m, average steepness: 65°, most challenging sections: 90°
5. Length of sections: III cat. diff. — 420 m, IV cat. diff. — 160 m V cat. diff. — 535 m, VI cat. diff. — 120 m
6. Pitons used:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge 3. Peak, its height, v. Uzbekistan, 5100 m, ascent route: northern wall (second passage) 4. Difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1050 m, average steepness — 65°, section lengths: 2 diff. cat. — 35 m, 3 diff. cat. — 180 m, 4 diff. cat. — 380 m, 5 diff. cat. — 540 m, 6 diff. cat. — 95 m 6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Certificate

1. Technical category.
2. Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge, Dugoba river basin.
3. Peak "Uzbekistan", 5100 m, category 5B via North wall, V. Rassokha, 76.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 900 m (by altimeter); route length — 1270 m; length of category V sections — 60 m; category VI sections — 20 m; average steepness:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Uzbekistan, 5140 m, via the center of the North face
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B category
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 1000 m Average steepness 65° Section lengths:
   • III category — 240 m

Description of the ascent route to the summit Ulitor 4680 m via North spur of West ridge, category 3B difficulty (orientation)

The summit Ulitor 4680 m is located in the spurs of the Alay ridge in the Kollektorskiy range between the summits Fergana and Zachetnaya. To the east of Ulitor lies the pass Fergana, category 1B difficulty, and to the west - the pass Ulitor, category 2B difficulty. To approach the start of the route from the alplager "Dugoba", it is necessary to:

• ascend along the Dugoba gorge (via a trail) to the confluence with the Ulitor river,
• then along the Ulitor river gorge (via a trail) to the 3600 m campsite. From there, continue up the gorge (keeping to the right-hand side):
• initially via a trail,
• then across moraines,
• emerging onto the Ulitor glacier and traversing its center towards the summit Ulitor.

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Brief description of the approach to the route

From the Dughoba alpine training and sports base, follow the Dughoba River upstream to the Sukhoy Log gorge (1.5–2 km), 15–20 minutes. Here, cross the Dughoba River via a bridge to the right (orographic) bank. Then ascend Sukhoy Log to the ridge between the peaks Maly Zamok (3450 m) and Glavny Zamok (3943 m). The ascent takes 2.5–3 hours. From the ridge, descend to the right via a trail, bypassing the cirque without significant loss of elevation, to the opposite slope. Then traverse northward across scree slopes to a couloir descending from Peak Khurdzhum S. (3600 m) — 300–350 m. Ascend the scree-filled couloir 60–70 m upward and traverse across scree shelves 120 m northward to a "cork" (a huge overhanging rock, 15×10 m in size). The route then proceeds upward to the left, onto the cork and to the 3rd ridge from the crest. Overall, the approach from the Dughoba alpine base to the start of the route takes 5–6 hours. V. Kislyakov, L. Stolyarenko, P. Dedorov, V. Shadrin. May 10, 1987 (Dugobich). 450 m, 150°, 32 pitches, 18 hours.

Scheme of the climbing area

Route diagram on Peak Khurdzhum Gl. in UIAA symbols WESTERN RIDGE R10: 40 m, 40°, 2, difficulty category 2