Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class 2. Ascent Region 3. Peak, its height, route taken: KhUGGDUM Peak, 3850 m, West Ridge and North Crest 4. Proposed category of difficulty 5. Route characteristics: 6B category. Height difference. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty. Average steepness: West Ridge - North Crest 6. Number of pitons used: rock, ice, bolted. Number of placed protection gear used 7. Number of travel hours 8. Number of nights spent 9. Full name of the leader and participants, their qualification

DESCRIPTION

First Ascent of the Northeast Wall of Shait Peak

Team Composition:

1. Mogilevcev A.N. — Master of Sports, Deputy Captain
2. Potapov V.A. — Master of Sports, Coach
3. Esipov S.I. — Master of Sports, Participant
4. Kisel S.Ya. — Master of Sports, — «—»
5. Timoshin M.E. — Master of Sports, — «—»
6. Shilov Yu.D. — 1st Category, — «—» The ascent was made between August 9 and 15, 1964.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Pik Shait, 4916 m, via N.N.E wall by Ovcharov's route (recognized route).
4. Expected difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 60°, length of sections: 1st difficulty category — 40 m, 3rd-4th difficulty category — 445 m, 5th difficulty category — 585 m, 6th difficulty category — 60 m.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying: rock — 19, ice — 6, chocks — 110.
7. Number of climbing hours: 15
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: no bivouacs.
9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their sports qualification:

Ascent Log

I. Ascent category: technical 2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Shait, 4916 m, via the NE wall on Matovcharov's path (official route) 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B category 5. Route characteristics: Height difference 900 m Average slope 65°. Section lengths:

• Steep terrain — 535 m
• Steep terrain — 560 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Shait, 4916 m, via N.N.E. wall by Ovcharov's path.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m; average steepness — 65°; length of sections: 1st diff. cat. — 40 m, 3rd-4th diff. cat. — 510 m, 5th diff. cat. — 400 m, 6th diff. cat./technical — 50 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying: rock — 19; ice — 5;

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Shait, 4916 m, via NW wall (by Mogilevcev's path), qualifying route
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B category difficulty
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 850 m. Average steepness 67°. Length of sections:

• 1st category difficulty — 40 m
• 3rd category difficulty — 300 m
• 4th category difficulty — 375 m

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
2. Peak Shait (4916), via North-Eastern wall (Mogilevtsev's route)
3. 6A category of difficulty
4. Route characteristic: combined
5. Elevation gain: 1100 m; Route length: 1400 m Section lengths:
   • 5 – 251 m
   • 6 – 65 m

Ascent Log

1. Ascent classification: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
3. Peak, its height, route: p. Shait, 4916 m, ascent via the NE wall: via Moiseevtsev's path (officially recognized)
4. Expected difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 900 m, average steepness 65°; section lengths: 4th diff. cat. — 535 m, 5th diff. cat. — 560 m, 6th diff. cat. — 65 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 47, ice — 8, protection — 33;

Ascent Record

I. Ascent Class: Technical 2. Ascent Area: Pamiro-Alay, Alaysky Ridge 3. Peak, its height — Shait 4916 m. Ascent route via North-East wall: (following Mogilevtsev's path), official route. 4. Expected difficulty category: 5B category difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: Height difference 850 m. Average steepness 67 degrees. Length of sections: 1 – 80 m, 3 – 250 m, 4 – 365 m, 5 – 320 m, 6 – 85 m. 6. Pitons driven:

• For belaying:
  • rock – 58
  • ice – –

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Shait, 4916 m, via North-Eastern wall (by Mogilevtsev's path), qualifying route
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 850 m, average steepness 67°. Length of sections:

• 1st cat. diff. — 40 m
• 3rd cat. diff. — 300 m
• 4th cat. diff. — 375 m