Ascent via the North Ridge

The summit of Ak-tash is located in the northwestern spurs of the Alay Range, in the upper reaches of the following glaciers:

• to the southwest — Dugoba,
• to the northeast — Ak-Tash,
• to the northwest — Dugoba-Shigou. The Ak-tash summit massif consists of heavily fragmented granite and limestone rocks.

Day One

From the "Dugoba" alpine camp, we proceed along the Dugoba River valley to the confluence of the Ak-Tash and Ulitor rivers (2 hours). At the confluence, the trail forks; the further path lies along the left orographic bank of the Ak-Tash River, bypassing a pronounced rocky massif on the right. The trail leads to a green meadow; after crossing it, we descend to the Surmetash River, and then, traversing the talus and grassy slopes above the left bank of the Ak-Tash River, we reach a canyon-like steep descent to the river (3–3.5 hours from the confluence).

Central Council of the Zenit Sports Society Protocol No. 396 dated April 15, 1975 5A first ascent (daib) AKTASH — 4937 m VIA THE WESTERN EDGE (first ascent) Naumov A.F. Master of Sports

1. Class — technical.
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge.
3. Peak — Belaya via the North ridge, height 4760 m.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 575 m, length of sections by category: II — 620 m, III — 360 m, IV — 170 m, average steepness — 29°.
6. Pitons hammered: for belay: rock — 18, ice — ?; for anchors and organization: rock — ?, ice — ?.
7. Total climbing hours — 9.5 hours.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: technical
2. Ascent area; ridge: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route characteristics: Belaya Shapka, 4666 m, via north-eastern ridge, combined
4. Proposed category: 2A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference 600 m;
   • length of sections with category 5–6 complexity — none;
   • average steepness 40°
6. Pitons used: none (rock outcrops were used)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area, ridge: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route characteristics: Belaya Shapka, 4666 m, via north-eastern spur of south-eastern ridge, combined
4. Proposed category: 1B
5. Route characteristics: — height difference 600 m; — length of sections with 5th-6th category difficulty: none; — average slope 40°

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Pamir-Alay, mountain range.
3. Gandakush peak, 4300 m, via the eastern spur.
4. Complexity category 3B–4A.
5. Height difference 8500 m, average steepness 45°–49°.
6. 8 rock pitons hammered in for belaying.
7. Total climbing time — 8 hours.
8. Overnight stay (earthen platform) under the route in the Ular-Sai gorge, on the bank of the Ular-Sai river.
9. Team leader — Osminin Vladimir Alekseevich — 1st sports category. Team members: Andrienko Valery Pavlovich — 1st sports category, Moiseev Yuri Mikhailovich — 1st sports category, Sokolovsky Evgeny Alekseevich — 1st sports category, Fedotov Viktor Aleksandrovich — 1st sports category.

Climbing type — rock Climbing area — Alai ridge, Dugoба resort area Peak, its height — Gandakush 3850 m Ascent route — NW edge Proposed category of difficulty — 3B Route characteristics — rock Height difference — 3100–3850 m = 750 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — none Steepness — 40–44° Number of driven hooks for belay:

ASCENT LOG

XXXI USSR Alpine Championship

1. Ascent class: rock climbing
2. Region of ascent, range: Pamir-Alai, Alai range.
3. Peak, height, ascent route: Peak 4300 m, height approximately 4500 m, via the left counterfort of the North face.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Section lengths:
     • 5A — 120 m
     • 5B — 245 m

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - rock 2. Ascent area, ridge - Archa-Kanysh gorge, Altai ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - peak XXII Olympiad, 4470 m, via the left part of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain - 750 m of which: eastern wall - 455 m length of sections - 550 m 5B-6B difficulty category

ASCENT LOG 23

1. Type of ascent: rock climbing
2. Area of ascent: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge, Archa-Kanysh gorge
3. Peak, route: p. 4300, via the center of the Eastern wall (1st left)
4. Difficulty category: 5B / 2nd ascent /
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 750 m