Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — traverse 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Alay Range 3. Ascent route — traverse of Alay Range from

• peak 5529 m to peak Tamdykul with passage of
• peak 5529 m (peak "30 Years of Victory"), ascent via eastern wall, first ascent,
• peak 5300 m (peak "Pyramida"), first ascent,
• peak 5308 m, first ascent,
• peak 5380 m (peak "Zaщitnikov Leningrada"), first ascent,
• peak 5200 m, first ascent,

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technically challenging
2. Ascent region — Pamir-Alay
3. Ascent route to peak Tamdykul (5450 m above sea level) — Eastern peak via the eastern ridge.
4. Ascent characteristics: — elevation gain — 2250 m; — average steepness — 44°; — length of complex ice section — 45°, 1050 m; — length of complex rock section — 80°, 100 m;
5. Pitons used:

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Archabashi gorge
3. Tamdykul peak, 5539 m, via the left part of the NW wall
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Route elevation gain — 1490 m, wall elevation gain — 1180 m. Route length — 2180 m, wall length — 1580 m. Length of sections with 5–6B category of difficulty — 1270 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 71° (4150–5330 m), of which 6B category of difficulty — 79° (4900–5330 m).
6. Number of pitons used: rock: 116, wedges: 98, channels: 10, chocks: 69, ice screws: 3.

The representative of the Leningrad team, before our departure on the route, remarked that the passage of the declared path does not solve the main problem of the wall — passage through the center via the hanging glacier. In our opinion, this "problem" does not exist, as during our stay in the base camp and passage of the qualifying route, the problematic route was regularly "hit" by ice and snow avalanches of varying power, but always sufficient for the "problem" to remain a problem. One of the main characteristics of the object of ascent is the length of possible ascent routes from the Tamykul gorge. 3 km would be the minimum length of the path if it were possible to lay it through hanging glaciers from the foot of the mountain straight up to the summit. In this regard, when ascending Tamykul, athletes pass through a number of climatic zones. At the same time:

• at the bottom, during the hours when the wall is lit by the sun, the heat is suffocating;
• at the top, only down-filled equipment, windproof clothing, and continuous movement help to combat the piercing cold wind. Such is the multifaceted nature of the mountain, making the ascent to its summit difficult but interesting.

2. Climbing Conditions in the Area

2.1. Exploration of the Area

The Tamdykul peak area is one of the least explored by climbers. This is evident from the fact that this highest peak in the Alay Range is not even mentioned in domestic mountaineering publications, nor is the adjacent massif of peak 5529 to the east. This is partly explained by the fact that:

• from the north, it takes several days of travel to see the alluring walls of these peaks;
• from the south, where the mountain can be reached in 2 days with a load and in 1 day without, these peaks do not appear as attractive to climbers, who see them from a helicopter on their way to more appealing giants of the Academy of Sciences Range.

Shankol via the northern spurs of the North-Eastern Ridge

The route is combined, category 3A (fig. 5–7). Length — 1200 m, H — 500 m, time — 5–6 hours. From the "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 2–8 people):

• Down the gorge along the highway to the Telman farm.
• From it, turn right to the east to the Shankol village.
• From it, turn right to the south and 20 km up the Shankol gorge road to the pastures and the end of the road. From the alpine camp by car – 1–1.5 hours. Further:
• Along the pack trail along the Shankol River with two long ascents to approach the lake in the upper reaches of the gorge.
• Near the lake, not far from the northwestern slopes of Shankol peak — the initial bivouac. From the end of the road – 3–4 hours. From the initial bivouac:

18. Chelyabinski Rabochiy - Dzholdzhilga Pass via the Northeast ridge. The route is combined, category 2B (fig. 5, 6, 29, 30). Length - 1000 m, 11 300 m, time 3.5-4 hours. The path from the Kirgizat alp camp (group size is not limited) to the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Dzholdzhilga glacier - see route 14. From the initial bivouac, move along the moraine, then along the Dzholdzhilga glacier to the right side of the broad saddle of the Dzholdzhilga Pass. From the glacier, ascend a gentle ice-and-snow 120-150-meter slope to the right side of the Dzholdzhilga Pass. On the pass, turn right and along the ice-and-snow ridge of the saddle, approach the 1st gendarme of the Northeast ridge of Chelyabinski Rabochiy peak. Along simple rocks of the gentle Northeast ridge with a short rusty wall (belay) 100 m up to the 1st gendarme. Then, along the long, gentle, easy 300-350-meter Northeast ridge, bypassing small gendarmes on the right, approach the 2nd Big gendarme. Along simple rocks with a 40-45° ascent (pitons belay) 100-120 m up to the 2nd gendarme. From the gendarme, descend to the ice-and-snow saddle along easy, destroyed rocks of the Northeast ridge. Then, along the right side of the wide, gentle ice-and-snow (cornices) Northeast ridge, approach the Pyramid gendarme. Traverse the Pyramid gendarme 40-50 meters to the right along the ice-and-snow slope or easy, destroyed, and snow-covered rocks (belay). Then, 350-450 m along the right side of the ice-and-snow Northeast ridge and the easy, destroyed, partially snow-covered 60-80-meter rocky Northeast ridge, ascend to the Chelyabinski Rabochiy peak. From the Dzholdzhilga Pass - 3-3.5 hours.

"Chelyabinsk Worker" via Uraltsev Pass along the southern wall cat. diff. Dzhura A.A. +2 Ims_ms@mail.ru Kichik-Alay ridge 5.1.4

Photo № 1: Peak "Chelyabinsk Worker" (taken on July 21, 2008 from the summit of p. Irbis 4200 m)

ascent route . . . . . invisible ascent route — descent route 5.1.4. Kichik-Alay ridge, Dzholdzhilga gorge. "CHELYABINSK WORKER" peak 4420 m via Uraltsev Pass along the southern wall, first ascent

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay ridge, Kychyk-Apai area
3. Peak: Chelyabinsk Worker peak (first ascent). Height 4400 m. Ascent route: from the north along the ice slope.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1200 m from the assault bivouac, length of sections 5–6 km, average steepness 35°.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying — _, for creating ITO — _ Rock — _, ice — _, bolt — _
7. Number of travel hours: 4 h 14 min.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics:

Approach. The approach to the slopes of p. Chaka from the overnight stay located near the large lake (the site of the base camp under the peak Bratyev Kolomtsevyh) takes 2 hours. When approaching, it is advisable to stick to the left side of the glacier descending from the peak Kirgiz-Ata. This path has:

• a more even ascent without sharp drops;
• fewer rock boulders along the way. Ascent. From the glacier, the ascent to the saddle between p. Chaka and v. Tsaritsyna occurs along a wide scree couloir, in the lower part of which there is a jumble of huge boulders. The steepness of the couloir increases with altitude gain. The upper part has fine scree, alternating with rocky outcrops. The average steepness is from 30° to 50° (in the upper part). The length of the couloir is about 300 m. At the beginning of summer, ascent on snow is possible. The ridge of the saddle has 3 gendarmes, which are bypassed on the western side or when ascending directly under the wall with an exit to the saddle (dangerous, rockfall possible). The ascent, depending on the condition of the couloir, takes about 1 hour. The ascent along the northern ridge occurs mainly along the left part. First, about 20 m along a destroyed wall to the base of two parallel chimneys. Ascent of 20 m (10 of them along the chimney) up the right chimney, protection only on inserted elements (rocks crumble). Above the chimney, using a system of figure-eight ledges, we approach the only logical ascent point - a steep inner corner (about 20 m). The ascent is of moderate difficulty, the walls of the corner are unreliable (collapse of slab-like blocks is possible). Passage is very smooth movements and loaded grip. Only inserts are used, which need to be "seated" deeply. After the inner corner, there is an exit to the ridge. Further:
• along the ledges,

Tsarnto

The second peak from the south of the Suychikty spur is Tsarnto, which is 4560 m high, and stands between the peaks of Chakatash to the south (across the South Charat pass) and Charat Yuzhnaya to the north, across the North Charat pass. The northeast ridge of the peak forms a small cirque with the South Charat glacier. The peak is straightforward, heavily destroyed, and lies far from basic mountaineering camps, so it has only seen a first ascent via the East (Northeast) ridge on August 12, 1990, by a group of Latvian mountaineers from the "Kirgizat" alpine camp, comprising:

• R. Laveinis,
• I. Ivulans,
• Yu. Lusis,
• K. Miller, who rated the route as 2A category difficulty.

81. Tsarnto via the East Ridge.