Ascent Report for the summit of Krylya Sovetov, approximately 2B category of difficulty, via the North Counterfort of the Western Ridge. Bolshoy Sayan Range. Ulan-Ude 2018

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan Range, Mugivek gorge, section 6.1.1.
2. Summit: Krylya Sovetov peak (3341 m), via the North Counterfort of the Western Ridge.
3. Estimated category of difficulty: 2B.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference (according to Google Planet): 390 m

X KIV /8

Irkutsk Regional Alpine Federation

Traverse of the peaks Druzhba — Arshan (Eastern Sayan)

Brief geographical description of the region

The peaks Druzhba and Arshan are located in the Tunkin Goltsy ridge, in the Eastern Sayan, in a lateral spur. The western slopes of the spur drop steeply into the gorge of the Kyngarga river. Tunkin Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan, stretching latitudinally for 200 km. The highest point of the ridge reaches 3266 m above sea level in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Khairym river gorge. Overall, the ridge has sharp alpine forms with deep gorges and wide glacial cirques. For over 100 km from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west, the ridge has many peaks of great interest to mountaineers. The forest boundary:

Ascent Log

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltcy ridge, Dождевое valley, section 6.1.
2. Bronenosets peak, 2430 m, via the Left buttress of the Western wall.
3. Proposed 4A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Elevation gain 190 m, length 242 m, average slope 55°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired 40 pcs.
7. Team's walking hours – 9 h.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Group:

Geographical location, sporting characteristics of the Moygota gorge

The Moygota gorge is located in the middle part of the main watershed of the Tunkin Goltsy in the Eastern Sayan. The Moygota peak closes the Moygota gorge and is located in the main watershed ridge. The heights of the peaks in the Moygota gorge do not exceed 3000 m. The alpine relief of the area with jagged rocky ridges makes it possible to classify a number of interesting sporting routes in this gorge. There are already classified routes to:

• Moygota peak via the southern ridge – 3A;
• Flibustier peak – 3B and 1B;
• Per'ya peak – 2B. The passage of these routes is often complicated by a significant snow cover, which falls early in autumn and mostly melts only by the end of May or June. Approaching with a load to the base camp – on the edge of the forest, from the Tunkinskaya valley, from the road leading from the village of Tagarhay – takes just under two walking days.

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge
3. Peak — Zub Drakona 2170 m via the center of the S wall of the main tower.
4. Claimed — 6A first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m. total length — 600 m. length of 6th category sections — 220 m. 5th category sections — 150 m.

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part of the table

Description of the traverse of the Maloalmatinsky spur section

Through the line: O. Koshevoi — Iskra — Molodaya Gvardiya

The traverse begins with the ascent to the summit of O. Koshevoi. The ascent is made along the western ridge. You can climb in two ways:

• from the west through the couloir (to the right of the western wall as you go);
• along the western wall. The ascent through the couloir is not difficult, category 1B. The ascent along the western wall of the peak was first made by the mentioned groups of U. Usenov and V. Alekseev in 1954 and classified as category 3B. While making the traverse of O. Koshevoi — "Iskra" — Molodaya Gvardiya, the group of the Kazakh club started the ascent to the peak Koshevoi along the western wall. The first part of the wall is traversed through a couloir (to the left of the couloir leading to the forepeak). In winter conditions, the couloir is filled with snow. It is more convenient to move along simple rocks with insurance.

Peak Uchitel'

Via South-Western

Counterforce, 4B,

V. Shapovalov, 1978

Pass by the Southern wall of Pioner and immediately after it, turn left into the couloir. You need to be careful in the couloir - rocks may fall depending on the season. It's better to put on helmets even below Pioner. Ascend to the clearly visible counterforce, reach its lower part via a snowpatch lying to the left. R0–R1: From the ledge, along the outer edge, 35-40 meters to the next ledge. R1–R2: From the ledge, upwards to the right across the slabs. A small wall, about two meters (90°), then it flattens out again. R3–R4: Either onto the wall to the right or into the couloir to the left. Either way, it "squeezes" out onto the ridge. R4–R5: The ridge abuts a wall about three meters high. The wall is not difficult, and there are ledges behind it.

Route Description

The starting point of the route is described in the ascent description to the summit of Uchitel 2A cat. sl. from the East. Further path follows the ridge connecting both summits. The first and second gendarmes are bypassed on the left. The remaining ones are overcome head-on. Then a неслож­ный спуск (easy descent) into the pass, movement along the ridge to the very summit of Pioner. The descent from the summit is to the left along the ridge to the Pioner­sky pass (3870 m), from it to the moraine of the Mametova glacier and along the trail to return to the initial bivouac. The traverse takes 7–8 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac at the Alpin­grad site.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• main rope — 2×40 m
• expendable repschnur — 5–6 m

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. ASCENT CLASS — snow and ice.
2. ASCENT AREA — Tian-Shan, the peak is located in the main ridge of Zailiyskiy Alatau between the peaks OPTЭ and Chokan Valikhanov. To the south of the peak is the Bogatyr glacier, to the north is the Shoskalsky glacier.
3. PEAK ELEVATION — 4400 m. The route runs from the north along the Shoskalsky glacier to the OPTЭ pass, from the pass along the eastern ridge to the peak.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 2A.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS — elevation difference: from the base of the Shoskalsky glacier to the OPTЭ pass 450 m, from the OPTЭ pass to the peak 200 m. Difficulty of individual sections — from 1B to 3A cat. diff. Average steepness of the route 25°.
6. PITONS USED — 4 ice screws for belay purposes.
7. NUMBER OF TRAVEL HOURS — from the camps under the Chekist peak (“Football field”) to the OPTЭ pass 4 hours, from the OPTЭ pass to the peak 1 hour, descent from the peak to the camps 2 hours.
8. NO OVERNIGHT STAYS are planned on the route.
9. PARTICIPANT INFORMATION — team leader Lobushkin Vladimir Nikolaevich, 1st sports category, Popov Alexander Mikhailovich, 1st sports category, Kolonogorov Alexander Valerianovich, 2nd sports category, Petrov Mikhail Nikolaevich, 2nd sports category, Prekhin Viktor Grigorievich, 2nd sports category.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — South-West Pamir
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Luknitskogo Peak 5800 m, North face
4. Difficulty category — 6B
5. Route characteristics
   • Height difference 1630 m, average steepness 70°. Length of sections: 3rd difficulty category — 190 m, 4th difficulty category — 330 m, 5th difficulty category — 600 m, 6th difficulty category — 400 m
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying — 151; for creating intermediate belay anchors: rock — 20, ice — 3.
7. Number of climbing hours — 73
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — 2 bivouacs