Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: technical
- Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Uzbekistan, 5140 m, via the center of the North face
- Proposed difficulty category: 5B category
- Route characteristics:
Elevation gain 1000 m
Average steepness 65°
Section lengths:
- III category — 240 m
- IV category — 280 m
- V category — 500 m
- VI category — 150 m
- Pitons driven:
- For belaying:
- rock: 32
- ice: 13
- protection gear: 24
- For creating intermediate belay anchors (ITOs):
- rock: 3
- ice: 4
- protection gear: 4
- For belaying:
- Total climbing hours: 13 hours
- Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: no bivouacs
- Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, their sports qualification:
- Kurmachov Yuri Fedorovich — CMS (Candidate for Master of Sports)
- Sereda Vladimir Alexandrovich — CMS Observation group:
- Sapozhnikov O.G. — CMS
- Laptenok V.D. — CMS
- Team coach: Yakovlev Vitaly Dmitrievich — senior instructor, Master of Sports of the USSR
- Date of departure and return:
1979 July 23, 3:00 — departure,
July 23, 21:00 — return.
Table of main route characteristics
| Date and time | Section | Average steepness, ° | Length, m | Section type | Category | Condition | Notes | Rock pitons | Ice pitons | Protection gear |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| July 23, 1979, 4:00 | R0–R1 | 50 | 150 | slope | 3 | snow | clear | — | — | — |
| R1–R2 | 90 | 8 | wall | 1 | ice | — | — | 5 | — | |
| R2–R3 | 70 | 80 | wall | 2 | ice | — | — | 4 | — | |
| R3–R4 | 60 | 360 | buttress | 4–5 | heavily broken | — | 21 | — | 15 | |
| R4–R5 | 80–95 | 150 | wall | 6 | monolithic | — | 11 | — | 13 | |
| R5–R6 | 60 | 280 | wall | 2 | ice, iced | — | — | 8 | — | |
| July 23, 1979, 17:00 | R6–R7 | 20–50 | 260 | ridge | 2–4 | partly destroyed | belaying on ledges | — | — | — |
Explanations
- R0–R1: Snow, dense firn, ice axe can be driven in well.
- R1–R2: Vertical wall, bergschrund crossing, good ice equipment required, most difficult ice section.
- R2–R3: Steep ice, specialized equipment will greatly facilitate and speed up passage of these sections.
- R3–R4: Broken, местами сильно, контрфорс, cautious climbing, sufficient cracks for pitons and protection gear.
- R4–R5: Difficult rock section, нависание in places, no bypasses, icefalls on the right and left. Thin pitons and small protection gear are used.
- R5–R6: Steep ice, specialized equipment will greatly facilitate and speed up passage of these sections.
- R6–R7: Ridge leading to the summit, отдельные небольшие крутые стенки.