PASSPORT

Ascent to peak Kalper via the Northeast Edge.

1. Category of ascent: Combined
2. Area of ascent: Tsey, Kalper ridge
3. Summit: Kalper, 3800 m, route via Northeast Edge
4. Estimated category difficulty: 5A–4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference –1100 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty –250 m, average steepness – 45°
6. Pitons used: for belay – 23, for artificial holds – 8, including rock pitons – 29, ice screws – 2.
7. Duration: 20 hours
8. Number of bivouacs: 2, with available tent sites.

Alpinist Sports Club "KASKAD"

Report

On the ascent to Tepli Glavnaya peak 4431 m from the Southwest by the couloir of the Western ridge, presumably 3B cat. diff. Variant of the route by A. ZyuziN. Tepli Glavnaya by the North-West ridge, 3B cat. diff., 1938, number in the classifier 2.8.85. Kirkitadze D.A. Dyakonov B.V.

Central Caucasus, October 2013

Climbing participants

1. Leader: Kirkitadze David Amiranovich, II sports category, Kambiileevskoe village. Address: Republic of North Ossetia-Alania, Kambiileevskoe village, Yuri Kuchiev St., 62. Phone: +7 961 822-28-22.
2. Participant: Dyakonov Boris Valerievich, II sports category, Beslan.

I. Climbing category: technically challenging. 2. Climbing area: Central Pamir. 3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their heights: peak Kamensk Ural'skiy (conventional name), peak 5080 m via the North Counterfort. 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 700–750 m, average steepness 55°, slope length 60 m + 150 m + 120 m. 5. Number of pitons hammered in:

• rock pitons — 37
• ice screws — 9

The preliminary ridge of the left peak and snow cornices. The ridge is initially sharp with cornices to the NE side.

• Two rocky "mandarins" are passed with piton belay.
• The last three rope lengths to the ascent to the summit are very steep.
• The exit to the summit is through a snow cornice 1–1.5 m wide. The summit is snowy. A cairn is built one rope length below the summit on the rocks. The descent is made via the approach route — 5–6 hours. The route is of the 4th cat. diff. Estimated ascent time:

1. Ascent from the 3800 m lake to the bivouac on the 4800 m ridge — 3 hours.
2. Passage of the section from 4800 m to the 5280 m summit — 8 hours. Recommended equipment for a group of 8 people.

On the first ascent to the summit of Pik Universiteta ITMO via the center of the Northern wall, category 4A, by the Ak-Sai Travel team — MPEI alpine club, from 26.08.2019 to 26.08.2019

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent Class: Technical
2. Ascent Region: South-West Pamir
3. Ascent Route: Peak 5080 m with ascent via the hanging glacier of the North-West Ice Wall.
4. Ascent Characteristics:
   • height difference — 1425 m
   • average steepness — 50°
   • length of complex sections — 200 m – 5A cat. diff.

Peak: peaks VYTAUTAS (5586 m) and MILDA (5378 m) 4. Route: via North-Eastern ridge, traverse, combined 5. Difficulty category: 3B cat. dif., variant 4.544 .4. 6. Height difference: 786 m, length — about 4000 m, length of sections 3B cat. dif. — 170 m, average steepness — 35° 7. Pitons driven + ice screws — 25 8. Climbing hours: 5 h 9. Team members: GUDYALIS Algis Vitautovich, CMS, PLIASKUS Ionas Stasevich, II grade 10. Team coach: GUDYALIS A. V., instructor III cat., 33154 II. Date

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent category: Snow and Ice
2. Ascent area: Yazgulem Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: P. 6047 m, via the northwestern slope
4. Proposed category: 3A, protocol 547, part 10, dated February 5, 1985
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average steepness — 30°, section lengths — R0–R1 300 m, R1–R2 40 m, R2–R3 200 m, R3–R4 80 m, R4–R5 1000 m, R5–R6 20 m, R6–R7 100 m
6. Number of pitons: ice screws 30
7. Climbing time: 14 hours
8. Number of bivouacs: 2
9. Names of the team leader and participants, their climbing qualifications:

— I.O. —

Section: a monolithic rock wall, complicated by an eave in its middle part.

• Free climbing 45–46
• Traverse left under the eave
• Snow possible in the cracks 46–47
• Eave. Traverse from left to right using artificial aids 47–49
• Rock walls with a large number of holds. Free climbing 49–50 Snow and ice slope leading to the ridge 50–51. Rock ascent 51–52 Ice "mushroom" — an overhanging section. Protection with ice screws 52–58 Rock ascent. Many loose rocks 58–54. Snow and ice cornice. Broken through by

Appendix I

Ascent Record

I. Ascent class — rock: 2. Ascent region — Main Caucasus Range and its spurs from Chipperazau pass to Orotokara peak. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Bashil peak, 4257 m, 4800 m via the south face. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m. 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m. 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m 6B pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. final 69, 18 bolted, 3 ice. 7. Number of walking hours — 26 (excluding descent). 8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 2, semi-reclining, in a tent. 9. Surname, name, patronymic of participants and their qualification: Merlis Viktor Petrovich — MSMK, leader