Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge 3. Peak, its height, v. Uzbekistan, 5100 m, ascent route: northern wall (second passage) 4. Difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1050 m, average steepness — 65°, section lengths: 2 diff. cat. — 35 m, 3 diff. cat. — 180 m, 4 diff. cat. — 380 m, 5 diff. cat. — 540 m, 6 diff. cat. — 95 m 6. Pitons driven:
| Piton type | For belay | For creating ITO |
|---|---|---|
| Rock | 9 | 1 |
| Ice | 27 | 2 |
| Chocks | 50 | 3 |
- Total climbing hours: 14 h
- Number of bivouacs: no bivouacs
- Full name of leader, participants, their sports qualification:
Pershin Valery Nikolaevich — Candidate for Master of Sports, Balezin Valery Viktorovich — Candidate for Master of Sports
- Team coach: Yakovlev Vitaly Dmitrievich.
- Date of departure and return:
departure — July 1, 1980, return — July 1, 1980
Table of main route characteristics
| Date | Designation | Average steepness, degrees | Length, m | Terrain character | Difficulty cat. | Weather | Pitons: rock | Pitons: ice | Chocks |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| July 1 | R0–R1 | 35 | 80 | snow | 2 | firm, clear | — | — | — |
| 1980 | R1–R2 | 50 | 100 | firn | 4 | hard | — | — | — |
| R2–R3 | 95 | 3 | ice | 6 | firm | — | 2 | — | |
| R3–R4 | 65 | 360 | ice | 5 | firm | — | 27 | — | |
| R4–R5 | 75 | 15 | inner corner | 6 | icy | 2 | — | 4 | |
| R4–R6 | 80 | 40 | "ram's foreheads" | 6 | icy | 4 | — | 6 | |
| R6–R7 | 70 | 50 | destroyed | 5 | snowy | 1 | — | 8 | |
| R7–R8 | 75 | 110 | wall | 5 | monolithic | 3 | — | 20 | |
| R8–R9 | 60 | 180 | ridge | 4 | snowy | — | — | 5 | |
| R9–R10 | 70 | 20 | wall | 5 | snowy | — | — | 6 | |
| R10–R11 | 45 | 180 | ridge | 3 | snowy | — | — | — | |
| R11–R12 | 90 | 15 | wall | 6 | monolithic | — | — | 4 | |
| R12–R13 | 45 | 100 | ridge | 4 | monolithic | — | — | — |
Brief explanation of the table
Section
Explanation
R0–R1: Snow slope, steps are well-defined. R1–R2: Hard firn, movement in crampons. R2–R3: Bergschrund, overcome via a snow bridge, then ice wall using ITO. R3–R4: Ice slab, passed using ice axe and ax. R4–R5: Icy rocks. Passed via inner corner. Cracks are filled with ice. R5–R6: Rocks like "ram's foreheads", between them snowy destroyed rocks, partially filled with ice. R6–R7: Steep destroyed rocks. Snow and ice on the shelves. R7–R8: Monolithic rocks, some slabs. Chocks used for belay. R8–R9: Snowy ridge with blocks and stones on it. R9–R10: Snowy wall. Passed via cracks or chimney. R10–R11: Snowy ridge with cornices to the left. R11–R12: Monolithic wall. Passed via free climbing. R12–R13: Monolithic wide ridge to the summit.