Alay Mountains
Route Description: с севера
SSummitMateDescription of the passage of a 5A category difficulty route to the peak Pgo-Vostochny Sauk Dzhyailau (4730 m) in the Alai Range.
ASCENT PASSPORT
- Climbing category: technical
- Climbing area: Alai Ridge (northern spur)
- Peak: South-East Sauk Jailyau from the north (third ascent), 4730 m
- Difficulty category: 5A
- Route characteristics: height difference 1210 m from the col at 600 m average steepness from the col 59° section lengths see table
- Pitons used for protection to create ITO:
Climbing report on the PriKVO team's ascent to the Sauk-Jailau summit via the western wall, category 3B complexity route.
Sauk-Dzhaylau (Carpathian Military District) CA by 3B cat. diff., O. Onysko, 80
1. Team preparation for the ascent. Information about reconnaissance.
The current team of climbers from the Carpathian Military District is a collective that has existed for many years. This team constantly conducts joint training and has repeatedly made joint climbs of various difficulty categories, up to the highest. Team members took part successfully in the Championship of the Soviet Army and Navy in 1979. The Carpathian Military District team was preparing to participate in the technical class within the framework of the 1980 Soviet Army and Navy Championship in two directions:
- Physical, technical, and tactical training.
- Evaluation of information about the championship area, selection of the ascent object, and direct reconnaissance of the area. Physical, technical, and tactical training was conducted in two stages:
- The first stage — at the place of residence.
- The second stage — in the Fann Mountains. General physical training was conducted:
Route Description: 3 стене
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of the "Tanmir" club team to the summit of Sauh-Jalyau via the 3rd wall, category 6A, at the XIII Open Russian Alpinism Championship.
REPORT
On the ascent of the "Taymyr" club team at the XIII Open Russian Championship in Alpinism in the technical class
Sauk-Jalau (SE) peak via the 3rd wall — 6A category of complexity
Team coach and captain — Kudrim A. V.
1995
For any questions regarding the report, please contact:
663319, Norilsk, Ordzhonikidze St., bld. 2, apt. 93, A. V. Kudrin.
| Section | Length | Steepness | Category |
Route Description: 3 стене
SSummitMateDescription of the passage of a 6A category route to the top of Sauk-Jailyau via the West face in Pamir-Alay.
Sauk-Dzhaiylau South peak via the West wall, 6A cat. (Onysko route) Pamiro-Alai 5.1.1. Alai Ridge
Passport
- Technical class.
- Pamir-Alai, Archa-Kanysh valley.
- Sauk-Dzhaiylau South peak via the West wall.
- 6A cat. (3rd ascent)
- Height difference 1330 Wall section height difference 980 Average steepness of the wall section 73°. Route length 1440.
Route Description: 3 стене
SSummitMateRoute to Peak Engels via the northwest wall, description of a challenging alpine ascent of 5B category.
29.09.69. 4540
Route Description: С стене, траверс
SSummitMateAscent to Main Sauk-Jailau via Central Peak by the northern wall, 6 cat. difficulty, 2603 m, 8 days, led by Kovtun V. G.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — technical
- Ascent area — Alay range — 5.1
- Peak, its height, route — Main Sauk-Dzhaylyau via Central peak with ascent to Central peak via northern wall.
- Estimated difficulty category — 6th cat. diff.
- Route characteristics:
Height difference:
- to Central peak — 1505 m
- to Main peak — 198 m Total height difference of wall section — 1703 m
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateAscent to the summit Sovetskih Shkolnikov via the centre of the Eastern wall, cat. 5B, Pamir-Alay, Alay Range, Archa-Kanish gorge.
I. Class of technically difficult ascents. 2. Pamir-Alay. Alay ridge. Arch-Kanysh gorge. 3. Peak Sovetskikh Shkolnikov (4850 m) via the center of the Eastern wall. 4. 5B category of complexity. 5. Characteristics of the route: a) height difference — 750 m, b) length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 506 m, c) average steepness — 75–80°. 6. Number of pitons hammered: a) rock pitons — 109,
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateAscent to the summit Sovetskikh Shkolnikov (4850 m) via a 5B category route with an altitude difference of 750 m and an average steepness of 75°.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: technical.
- Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge.
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Sovetskikh Shkolnikov Peak, 4850 m via the W wall (second ascent).
- Proposed difficulty category: 5B.
- Route characteristics: height difference 750 m; average steepness 75°; length of sections with 4th cat. diff. – 220 m, 5th cat. diff. – 470 m, 6th cat. diff. – 80 m.
- Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 23 ice — (dash)
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateAscent report on the Sons (5100 m) peak via the North wall in the Alay range, category of difficulty 5B, describing the route and its stages.
ASCENT DOCUMENT 102
- Climbing category: technical
- Climbing area: Alai Ridge
- Peak: Pik Synovey, height approximately 5100 m, ascent route - via the North face.
- Estimated difficulty category: 5B
- Route characteristics: elevation gain — approximately 1100 m. average slope: 55° section lengths: 2nd difficulty category – 160 m, 3rd difficulty category – 190 m, 4th difficulty category – 300 m, 5th difficulty category – 590 m, 6th difficulty category – 40 m.
- Pitons driven:
Route Description: Ю гребню с пер. Сыпучий
SSummitMateAscent report on Peak Synovey (5100 m) via the North wall in the Alay ridge, category of difficulty 5B, the route taken and its features.
- Climbing category: technical
- Climbing area: Alai Range
- Peak: Pik Synovey, height about 5100 m, ascent route - via the North face.
- Estimated difficulty category: 5B
- Route characteristics: height difference — about 1100 m, average steepness: 55°, length of sections: 2nd cat. diff. — 160 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 190 m, 4th cat. diff. — 300 m, 5th cat. diff. — 590 m, 6th cat. diff. — 40 m.
- Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 49