115. Map for the Eastern Ridge Route (Combined Climb, Category 2A Difficulty, Figures 5, 13)

From the "Bashil" tourist base (group of 4-12 people), approach the confluence of the Bashil and Jailyak rivers. From here, ascend via a steep trail on the left bank of Jailyak, leading into the valley of this river. Continue along the valley, cross the river via a bridge near a shepherd's hut to the right bank of Jailyak, and follow the trail along steep "sheep's foreheads" to the point where the Kenchat River joins Jailyak from the right. Bypass the "sheep's foreheads" from the right, ascending to a grassy shoulder, and from there, traverse across scree slopes, partially overgrown with grass, to reach the moraines of the Kenchat gorge. Ascend via the moraines and then a simple, long glacier of Kenchat to its upper cirque. From the "Bashil" tourist base, the journey takes 7-9 hours. From the glacier, ascend via a wide, scree-filled couloir (prone to rockfall) to the right onto the Eastern Ridge of the Kayarta peak. Here, turn left and follow the heavily degraded Eastern Ridge, featuring several straightforward, not very tall gendarmes that can be overcome directly (with protection), to reach the summit ridge. From here, ascend along the gentle, simple, degraded rocky ridge or a snowy slope on the right side of the lengthy Eastern Ridge to the summit of Kayarta. Route Components:

• Ascend via a scree-filled couloir (prone to rockfall) to the Eastern Ridge
• Traverse left onto the Eastern Ridge
• Overcome gendarmes along the Eastern Ridge using protection
• Reach the summit ridge

117. Kayarta —

(combined route, category II, fig. 5, 13). The path from Tyrnyauz (group of 4–20 people) to the Western Kayarta stream is described in route 106. Having crossed the stream, turn left and ascend a steep rocky slope on the right bank of the stream to its upper cirque above two waterfalls. Then:

• ascend along the right bank,
• then cross to the left bank,
• move along the left bank to the Western Kayarta glacier. On the left side of the glacier (closed crevasses), bypass the icefall. Above it, cross the glacier to the right and approach the left slope of the Western ridge of Kayarta peak. From the glacier, having passed the bergschrund, ascend to the Western ridge of Kayarta. From here, along a gently sloping wide snow-ice slope on the left side of the 450–500-meter Western ridge with a 20-meter ascent in the upper part, reach the summit of Kayarta. From the Tyutyusu gorge — 4–5 hours.

111. Kenchat via the North Ridge

(combined route, 2A cat. dif., fig. 5, 13) The path from Tyrnyauz (group of 4–20 people) through the Tyutysu gorge to the rocky plateau in the upper reaches of the gorge is described in route 106. From the plateau, turn left and first follow the Tyutyu glacier, then traverse the gentle moraines and scree to reach the foot of the Northern branch of the Tyutyu glacier, which flows from the Kilar pass. Set up the initial bivouac here. It takes 4–6 hours from the last grove. From the bivouac, ascend to the Northern branch of the Tyutyu glacier and follow its right side to reach the upper snow plateau. Traverse the plateau (watch for hidden crevasses) to approach the saddle of the Kilar pass between the Kenchat peak on the right and the Oryol peak on the left. From the plateau, overcome the bergschrund, then:

• ascend a steep 120-meter ice-and-snow slope (rockfall hazard),
• followed by straightforward traverse across broken rocks to reach the Kilar pass. The path from the Bashil tourist base to the Kenchat glacier is described in route 115. From the glacier, having traversed the bergschrund, ascend the ice-and-snow slope to the saddle of the Kilar pass between the Kenchat peak on the left and the Oryol peak on the right. At the pass, turn right (when ascending from Tyutysu) and reach the North Ridge of the Kenchat peak. Follow the ice-and-snow North Ridge (cornices, protection) to approach the first pinnacle, which is overcome directly via a 6–8-meter wall. Then traverse an 8–10-meter sharp snow ridge (cornice, protection) to approach the second pinnacle; ascend it via a 6–8-meter wall (protection). Continue ascending:
• along the partially sharp ice-and-snow North Ridge (large cornices),

Kichkidar via the Western Ridge, combined, 2A

Route Description:

The path from the "Ullutau" alpine base lies along the trail of the "Kullumkol" gorge, exiting to the "Nizhnie-Kichkidars" overnight camps on the Western Yunom-Su glacier, and then on to the "Nizhnee-Kichkidars" overnight camps. The journey takes 4-5 hours. From the "Verkhnee-Kichkidars" overnight camps, the path initially lies in the direction of the "Donkina" pass, with an ascent to the right part of the glacier and then towards the steep Western ridge. Approaching it, the glacier is heavily crevassed (travel strictly roped), we approach the right side of the ridge from the "Kichkidar" summit and ascend via ice and snow, bypassing the rocky wall at the base of the Western ridge and its first gendarme on the right. On the saddle, turn slightly right and then proceed along snowy slabs and, in places, steep rocks, heading towards the 2nd small gendarme; this is a control cairn. From it, upwards, bypassing the high gendarmes and walls on the left (belaying is mandatory), interspersed with snowy sections of the Western ridge, we reach the summit. The journey takes 4-5 hours. The descent from the summit follows the path of 2A cat. diff. to the "Zaitsev" To the "Verkhne-Kichkidarskie" overnight camps!

209. Latsha via the East Ridge (combined route, A. Bespalova, category III difficulty, fig. 24, 30). From the initial bivouac at the Garvash Pass (route 205), turn left and approach the first rocky ascent of Latsha's East Ridge via scree. Ascend 200–250 m up simple, then moderately difficult (with protection) rocks of the East Ridge to the "Paltsev" gendarme. Bypass the "Paltsev" on the left and continue up moderately difficult rocks of the East Ridge to the second ascent. From under the second ascent:

• 20 m along a ledge to the left,
• then 35–40 m up moderately difficult rocks (with pitons) to the ascent,
• 150 m along the narrow snow-and-ice (with cornices) East Ridge to the third ascent. Overcome the third ascent directly up 20-meter moderately difficult rocks (with pitons). Continue along:
• 400–500-meter snow-and-ice East Ridge (with cornices) to reach the summit of Latsha. From Garvash Pass — 5-6 hours.

210. Latsha from the south via the East Ridge couloir (combined route, category II difficulty, fig. 24, 30). From the initial bivouac on the snow plateau below the Garvash Pass (route 205), ascend 250–300 m up the first steep snow-and-ice, then simple but crumbling rocky, wide south couloir from the Garvash Pass (avalanches, protection) to the East Ridge (with cornices) of Latsha.

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT TYPE — rock climbing
2. ASCENT REGION — Main Caucasus Range between Garvash and Jantugan passes
3. PEAK — Latsga (3980 m) via the southern ridge
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 3B
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS — ridge ascent with a height difference of 560 m, average steepness of 45°
6. PITONS DRIVEN — 8 rock pitons for belaying
7. TIME TAKEN — 8 hours 30 minutes from the start of the route to the summit (group of 6 people)
8. NUMBER AND CHARACTERISTICS OF NIGHTS SPENT — no convenient places for overnight stays; it is possible to set up one tent approximately at the middle part of the route (beyond the "black triangle")
9. ASCENT LEADER: Zaporozhchenko E.V. — 1st sports category

Fig. 26. 164. Lekzyr Severная via North Ridge (combined route, V. Martynova, category 4A, fig. 24, 26). From the initial bivouac on the "Morena Lekzyr" sites (point 159), cross the Eastern branch of the Lekzyr Glacier and approach the right side of the Tot pass — the left side of the base of the North Ridge of Lekzyr Severная peak. From the glacier:

• overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge;
• ascend a steep 100–300-meter ice-and-snow slope to the North Ridge of Lekzyr Severная peak.

168. Lekzyr Yuzhnaya via South-Eastern Ridge (combined route, E, Beletsky, 3B cat. diff., fig. 24, 26).

From Tot Pass (route 160) descend a snow slope with a bergschrund in its lower part to Tot Glacier and along its right side (closed crevasses) approach the right side of the south-eastern ridge of Lekzyr Yuzhnaya peak. From the glacier, having traversed the bergschrund, ascend 100–120 m up a snowy-ice slope of the "tie" to a col (cornice) of the South-Eastern ridge above the 1st pillar. Here, turn right, approach the 2nd pillar, bypass it with a descent along a ledge on the left (belay) and get behind it onto the South-Eastern ridge. Then:

• 15–20 m along a snowy slope,
• 80–90 m along rocky South-Eastern ridge to below a wall. Bypass the wall on the right along a ledge. Then, traverse 50–60 m along medium-difficulty rocks on the right side of the South-Eastern ridge (gully) and via an ice-snow couloir ascend to the South-Eastern ridge. Then:
• along medium-difficulty rocks,
• along a snowy col (cornice),
• along simple, easy rocks of the South-Eastern ridge — ascend to the summit of Lekzyr Yuzhnaya.

169. Lekzyr Severnaya — Lekzyr Yuzhnaya

(combined route, E. Emelyanova, 4A cat. diff., fig. 24, 26). From the summit of Lekzyr Glavnaya (route 165, 166) descend along simple rocky Yuzhny ridge, then along shelves on its right side to the saddle of Yuzhny ridge. From the saddle descend on the left side of the ridge by 3–4 abseils 25–30 m and sport route to a platform. From the platform traverse right along snowy shelves, then along a narrow 20–25-meter couloir (chimney) and steep broken rocks to a platform on the saddle of the massif behind Bolshoy zhendarм. Make a bivouac on the platform. From Glavnaya summit 5–6 hours. From the platform — along simple rocks of the ridge, overcoming small rock towers head-on or

204. Kayarta Glavnaya via the South Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the "Adylsu" alp camp to the Shternberg Pass through the Tyutyusu gorge is described in routes 184 and 203. From the pass, turn left and exit onto the rocky South Ridge of Kayarta Glavnaya peak. From here, ascend simple and solid ridge rocks. Bypass the first 30-meter-high gendarme on the right (belay!). Beyond it:

• ascend the severely damaged simple rocky ridge,
• then traverse along the right snowy slope to reach the rocky edge of the South shoulder,
• ascend 50–60 m up the moderately difficult rocks of the edge. Then: