Alay Mountains
Route Description: СВ стене
SSummitMate### Description of the 6A category route to the summit of Paatt (4916 m) via the Northeast Wall A detailed analysis of the team's tactics and characteristics of the route sections.
Passport
I. Class: TECHNICAL 2. Region: PAMIR-ALAI, ALAISKY ridge 3. Peak: SHAIT (4916 m), via the Northeast face 4. Route complexity category: 6A 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain: 938 m, Average slope: 65°. Section lengths:
- 4th category complexity — 35 m
- 5th category complexity — 910 m
- 6th category complexity — 90 m
Route Description: 3 ребру В гребня
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to Yubileynaya peak (4300 m) via the West Ridge and East Crest, complexity category 3A, length 2250 m.
- Climbing category: combined
- Climbing area: AUSB "Dugoba", Kollektorsky Ridge, spur of the Alay Ridge
- Peak, its height, route taken: p. Yubileynaya 4860 m. Western edge and Eastern ridge.
- Estimated category of difficulty: 2B
- Route characteristics: combined
- Height difference: 1260 m.
- Length of sections:
- Cat. diff. 5
- Cat. diff. 4
- Cat. diff. 3 — 53 m.
Route Description: правому кф. СЗ стены
SSummitMateAscent to the summit Dvubednaya (4660 m) via the right buttress C-3 of the wall, category 4B, climbed by a group of climbers in 1986.
ASCENT REPORT
- Ascent category — technical
- Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Kollektor Range, spur of the Alai Range.
- Summit — Yubileynaya, 4860 m, right buttress of the S–3 wall, rocky.
- Proposed difficulty category — 4A
- Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1200 m average steepness — 45° length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 60 m
- Pitons driven:
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route 4A category of difficulty to the summit of Aidarbek (5127 m) along the western ridge via peak 4890 m in the Alai Range.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Climbing category — technical.
- Climbing area, ridge — Alaysky.
- Peak, its height, ascent route — Aydarbek, 5127 m, along the western ridge via peak 4890 m.
- Proposed difficulty category — 4A cat. diff.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m. length of R5–R6 sections — average steepness — 35°
- Pitons driven: for belay, for creating artificial holds. | rock | –4 | | :------- | :-- |
Route Description: С ребру
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit of Aidarsok (5127 m) via the North Ridge, difficulty category 5A, climbed in 1977 by a group of climbers led by I.K. Korenev.
- Climbing class — technical
- Climbing area, ridge — Alai Ridge, Pamir-Alai
- Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Aidarbek, 5127 m, via the North Ridge
- Proposed difficulty category: 5A cat. diff.
- Route characteristics:
- elevation gain: 100 m
- length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff.: 250 m
- average steepness: 55°
- Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating IC:
Route Description: СВ кф. В гребня
SSummitMateTechnical ascent description of 5A category complexity to Peak Aydarbek (5125 m) via North Buttress of V. Grabia in the Alay mountain range of Pamir-Alay.
Ascent Record
- Ascent class - technical.
- Ascent area - Pamir-Alay. Alay ridge.
- Peak, its height and ascent route - p. Aydarbek 5125 m. Via the northern counterfort of the E. ridge.
- Proposed difficulty category - 5A category.
- Route characteristics: height difference - 1100 m. Length of sections IV - 1350 m, V - 765 m, average steepness - 55–60°.
- Pitons hammered for protection: rock - 25, ice - 12, bolted - 0.
- Number of climbing hours - 26 hours.
- Number of bivouacs and their characteristics - 1.
Route Description: СВ стене С ребра
SSummitMateFirst ascent of the Aidarbek peak (5127 m) via the North face in the Alai Range, category of difficulty 5B.
Ascent Record
1. Ascent classification — technical first ascent
2. Ascent area, range — Alaysky
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Aidarbek, 5127 m, North face
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B category
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1100 m
Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 645 m Average slope — 70°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating anchor points
Route Description: СВ стене С ребра
SSummitMate### Climbing Route to Anteroen Peak (5127 m) via North Face *Category: 3-5; Ascent by a team led by Smagdykhov S. E.* Details a challenging ascent route to the summit of Anteroen via its north face, highlighting the technical difficulties and category rating of the climb achieved by a team under the guidance of Smagdykhov S. E.
Ascent Log
- Ascent classification: technical
- Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Aidarbek gorge.
- Peak, its height, ascent route: Aidarbek peak, 5127 m, via the North face (Zayev's route)
- Difficulty category: 5B category difficulty.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1120 m length of 5B category difficulty sections — 202 m average steepness — 58°
- Pitons hammered:
Route Description: СВ стене С ребра
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit of Addarok (5127 m) via the north face, category 5B, with technical characteristics and details of the route.
Ascent Log
- Climbing category — technical.
- Alaysky ridge, Koksu gorge. Aydarbek peak, 5127 m via the northern wall.
- Difficulty category — 5B (2nd).
- Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1030 m; length of sections with 5th-6th difficulty category — 700 m; average steepness — 56°.
- Pitons hammered: for belay, for artificial climbing holds | Type of pitons | For belay | For artificial climbing holds | | :------------- | :-------: | :----------------------------: | | Rock | 57 | III |
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMate### Ascent Description for Peak Aidarbek (5127 m) via the North Face Route (Category 6 Difficulty) The ascent details the challenging journey up Peak Aidarbek's north face, a route categorized as 6th difficulty. #### Route Characteristics The route is distinguished by its steep and complex terrain, demanding high levels of technical skill and physical endurance. Climbers must navigate through icy walls and rocky outcrops, making it a significant undertaking. #### Key Sections - The initial ascent involves a steep ice wall that requires careful crampon and axe work. - A mixed terrain section follows, where climbers must adeptly switch between ice climbing and rock climbing techniques. - The route culminates in a challenging rock face ascent to the summit. #### Passage Details Climbers should be prepared for variable weather conditions, including potential snow and ice. Crevasses and serac formations pose additional hazards, necessitating thorough rope fixing and belaying practices. Effective communication and teamwork are crucial to overcoming the obstacles presented by this demanding route.
Ascent Log
- Climbing category: technical.
- Pamir-Alay.
- Peak Aidarbek, 5127 m, via the north face.
- 6th category of difficulty.
- Route characteristics:
Combined, height difference 1100 m (wall part 1010 m), average slope of the wall 70°, length of sections:
- 1st category of difficulty — none
- 2nd category of difficulty — 250 m
- 3rd category of difficulty — none