Tsikhvarga

Tsikhvarga (4132 m) is a key peak of the Main Ridge between the peak Kain to the northwest and the Gurdzivtsék pass to the southeast. Beyond the pass rises the Saual­khoyne peak. The northern ridge of Tsikhvarga turns into a long spur with the peaks:

• Tsagor
• Legauta. The spur separates the Fastag gorges to the east and Bartuy to the west with glaciers of the same name in their upper reaches.

79. Tsikhvarga via the Southeast ridge, category 2B (L. Gutman, A. Dashkov, A. Krasnov, N. Nekrasova, N. Firsova, August 12, 1937). From the village Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people) cross the Karaugom river by bridge and reach the village Nogkau by forest road. Then ascend by forest trail on the right side of the Karaugom gorge to the first tributary of Karaugom - the Bartuy river, cross it by bridge, then by forest trail high above the right bank of Karaugom approach the second tributary - the Iske river and ford it a little above the waterfall. From here - by trail on the moraine ridge to the Fastag river, which is forded or crossed by bridge. In half an hour, the forest trail will lead to the beautiful "Paradise clearing", surrounded by forest and rocks. From the village Dzinaga 8-12 hours. From the "Paradise clearing", passing by forest trail slightly upstream along the gorge, ford to the right bank of Fastag or, descending, cross by temporary bridge. By trail on the right bank of Fastag:

The ascent leader and author of the description is Zaretsky Ivan Approach: Both routes start from the Molodezhny pass. You can ascend to the pass from the Mramorny lake side. From the lake, a trail leads towards the pass, which ends at a talus slope. The ascent is via the scree, bypassing the "ram's foreheads". This path to the pass is:

• the shortest,
• not the easiest to ascend,
• not the safest to descend. From Mramorny lake, you can also reach Molodezhny pass via Kursanov pass. From the lake, a trail leads to Kursanov East pass. Then, from the pass, the trail follows the ridge towards Molodezhny peak. From Kursanov West pass, the trail, going along the slope, leads to Molodezhny pass. This path is longer, but it mostly follows an obvious trail.

16 to Uchyitel peak:

The route starts from Molodezhny pass. From the pass, the route follows a trail that, bypassing the peak on the right, leads to the ridge. The highest point of the ridge is the summit. Descent is via the ascent route.

1B to Molodezhny peak

The approach to the bastion is described in the previous section (1.5 hours), but there is no need to bypass it from the right; the route goes along the left, main, face. At the top of the bastion, it joins route 3A, which leads to the summit. View of Mynzhipin from the road.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, Sredniy Talgar gorge. 3. Peak TAGANAI, 3800 m, West wall. 4. Estimated cat. difficulty — 2B 5. Route characteristics:

• Height difference — 430 m.
• Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — none
• Average steepness — 60°.

6. Pitons hammered in:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge.
3. Peak — Chkalov Peak, height — 3892 m, route — along the northern ridge.
4. Expected difficulty category — 2B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference — 700 m.
   • Average steepness — 45°.
   • Sections of 5th category of difficulty are absent
6. Pitons driven:

7.2. 231

Ascent Registration Form

Ascent category Ascent area Summit Estimated difficulty category Route characteristics Travel time Leader's full name Team coach ОСО

The route via Novomoy­greche J-a­n.....

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
2. 4150 m (Ratséka peak), via the North-West ridge.
3. The route is proposed as 2A category of complexity, first ascent by a Russian team.
4. The nature of the route is rocky.
5. Height difference of the route — 350 m. Route length — 520 m. Length of sections:

• 1B category of complexity — 320 m,
• 2A category of complexity — 170 m,
• 3A category of complexity — 36 m.

Fig. 6. Fig. 7. Path to Pik Kosmonavtov

Гре­ве­ив от Цен­тр. Гва­ид­рь к Вос­то­чно­му — 2–5 км. becomes Distance from Tsentr. Gvaidry to Vostochny — 2–5 km.