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Fig. 19 74. Taymaz West via West Ridge (a combined route, 3A category of difficulty, Fig. 19). The path from the "Taymazi" meadow (a group of 4–8 people) to the red cliffs at the head of the Taymazi River is described in route 72. At the red cliffs (rockfall):

• ford the Taymazi River;
• ascend through the boulder field on the right bank to the talus slopes. Climb the talus slopes to the northern ridge — a spur of Tcentral'naya Taymazi Peak. From here, move right and, traversing the moraines beneath the broad tongue of the Zapadny Taymazi Glacier, reach its right-lateral moraine. Ascend along the moraine crest, which gradually turns left, to almost beneath the northeastern rocky slopes of Glavnaya Taymazi Peak. Here, leave the moraine and move left onto the Zapadny Taymazi Glacier, staying on its right side (closed crevasses), and reach the Taymazi Pass that connects the Zapadnaya (left) and Glavnaya Taymazi (right) peaks. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge and ascend a steep 250–300-meter ice-and-snow slope to the Taymazi Pass. On the narrow rocky ridge's flat areas of the pass is the starting bivouac. From the "Taymazi" meadow — 8–10 hours. On the pass, turn left and:

Ascent Passport

1. Category: ice and snow climb
2. Caucasus, Tsey Gorge
3. Mamisong, 4358 m, via the left icefall of the north face
4. Proposed route — Category 5B difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 780 m, route length 1060 m. Length of Category 5B sections — 380 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60° (3820 m — 4140 m).
6. Ice screws used: 89
7. Team's climbing hours — 7, days — II.
8. No overnight stays.

27.12.83

Passport

Ascent to Mt. Mamisong-hokh via icefalls of the North Face

1. Ascent category — snow and ice climb.
2. Ascent area — Caucasus, Tsey.
3. Ascent route — “Mamisong-hokh, 4358 m, via icefalls of the North Face.”
4. Route description:
   • route length — 920 m
   • height difference — 858 m
   • average steepness — 55°

From the Torpedo bus station by car along the Ossetian Military Road towards the Mamisson Pass to the Mamikdon River, which flows from the Ronketi Glacier, along the trail that runs along the right bank of the river to the moraine. Cross the river and follow the trail along the ridge of the first moraine, which runs along the left bank of the river — ascent to the overnight stays located in the hollow between the two moraines. Cairn on the moraine. 1.5 hours from the Ossetian Military Road (see Appendix I). From the overnight stays, go right to the ridge of the next moraine and ascend to its end. From here, go right onto the glacier (be careful, crevasses) and cross it in the direction of the Freshfield Pass. The Freshfield Pass is accessed via a couloir, which is wide and snowy at the bottom, with a bergschrund. The ascent to the pass initially goes up the middle of the couloir. In the middle section, the couloir narrows, and the ascent is made along its right side, close to the rocks. In the upper part, the couloir widens again and breaks into several branches. Leaving a large rocky outcrop on the left, ascend via the leftmost narrow scree couloir, which leads to the Freshfield Pass, at the start of the route. 1.5–2 hours from the overnight stays. From the pass, ascend left and upwards along the ridge, via moderately difficult rocks, 20–30 m. Then ascend straight up a narrow rocky couloir for 2–3 ropes. Protection via rock outcrops. The ascent is always on the right side of the eastern ridge. Then follow an inclined ledge and further via a cleft exit left onto the ridge, 1.5–2 ropes, piton belay. Continue along the ridge: initially sharp, then broadening. A large boulder is bypassed on the right. Further along ledges to the right of the ridge, ascend to the summit. 1.5–2 hours from the pass.

Fig. 26 110. Uilpata (4668 m) via the North ridge-slope (route is ice-snow, V. Naumenko, category 4A, Fig. 26). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac at Vorobyovskie nochevki:

• via Uilpatinsky glacier — described in route 99;
• via South and North branches of the Tsey glacier — described in routes 83 and 108. From Vorobyovskie nochevki, turn right (when ascending from the Uilpatinsky glacier) and along Vorobyev glacier, left of the ice falls descending to the Uilpatinsky glacier, approach a steep snow slope with several rocky buttresses. The slope descends from the Songuti pass, connecting the peaks of Songuti on the right and Uilpata on the left. From the glacier, pass through the snow bridge of the bergschrund. Further:
• pass on the left side of the steep, third couloir from Uilpata (possible rockfall);
• ascend simple and moderately difficult, heavily damaged rocks of the steep counterfort (pitched rope);

128. Uipata-Hoh via East Face

(Mixed route: category III) From Vorobievskaya bivouac, approach the first couloir of the eastern wall. Advance through the snow to beneath the couloir and turn into its right-hand branch, then exit onto a rocky ridge. The ridge consists of monoliths with ledges, on which there are many loose rocks. There are no particular difficulties traversing the ridge. Protection is possible using pitons and rock features. At the point on the ridge where the first cairn is located, the ridge turns left; however, you should continue right, crossing a steep icy couloir (1 rope with step-cutting) from the couloir onto a broad, sloping ledge that extends to the rocks. Further work on the rocks is of medium difficulty with good protection features and ledges. The landmark is a flat rock hanging overhead to the left; climb directly towards it, traversing one ledge all the way to the left and then straight up. The route is clearly visible due to the surrounding sheer walls.

141. Peak TsDSA via the Southeast Ridge South Face

(combined route, cat. 4B difficulty) From the Uilpatinsky overnight camps, ascend the glacier, bypassing the Southeast face of Peak TsDSA, to reach the start of the route. Climb a 150–200 m snowy slope to reach the rocks of the southern buttress. The ascent is via moderately difficult rocks, leaving the "Suchi" to the right. After 120–150 m, enter a snow-ice couloir that leads to a 20-meter wall (the first critical section), which is climbed without a backpack. Two pitons are hammered into this wall. After the wall, move 30–50 m left and up across scree slopes under the "Bastion" to find a platform with a cairn, where a note from the first group to take this route in 1963 was found. From the cairn, move right across easy rocks to reach a broad snow-ice couloir. Cross it and exit onto the ridge on the right side. Follow the ridge for 30 m across easy rocks to reach a snow-ice saddle (with a cornices on the saddle). After crossing the saddle, bypass the "Bastion" on the right across heavily broken rocks. Then ascend 100–120 m up snow-covered rocks to reach a saddle between the "Bastion" and the First sentinel. Bypass the sentinel on the left and follow the ridge to the second sentinel (the second critical section). The 50-meter sentinel wall has a steepness of 80–90° with few holds. There is a small platform at the top for belaying (five pitons are hammered in at this section). Continue up the heavily broken ridge with numerous sentinels, which are climbed head-on:

• On the ridge, there is a second control cairn with a note from a 1952 group led by Master of Sports Kolomensky V.
• The "Zub" sentinel is climbed head-on via a crack with a plug - a [moderately difficult] section. Five pitons were hammered in during the ascent and descent of the "Zub" sentinel (descent on a rope while seated).

Route Description

From the Myrdı bivouac, ascend the grassy slopes towards the lower part of the eastern ridge of Pyramida. Then turn right onto the large, wide slopes cut by a chain of couloirs and scree, rising towards the terminal moraine of the Pyramida glacier. Reach the glacier via the large, long moraine. Continue straight up towards the clearly visible, rightmost narrow saddle on the Pyramida ridge. The ridge connects to the summit of Ak-bashi to the right. The ascent to the saddle follows a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 40°, then a narrow 100-meter couloir (ice in the second half of summer). From the saddle, descend 50 m to the other side and follow a wide, 400-meter scree shelf that wraps around the base of Pyramida from the west, approaching a large rocky outcrop. Ascend the outcrop upwards and to the left, then move onto inclined shelves above a white quartz vein (protection!). Then bypass the first rocky prominence and move towards the wedge-shaped rock protruding from the second rocky prominence on the ridge. Ascend to the wedge-shaped rock via broken rocks, then follow the inner angle - a couloir (water!) - to reach the upper scree slopes above the wall via a small R6 rock wall. Follow the scree slopes and small ridges to reach the main ridge of the summit at a large, horizontally lying slab. From here, move left and down into a small depression, then ascend to the summit via yellow rocks. 6 hours from the bivouac. Descent from the summit follows the "Pyramida via the Southeast Ridge" route.

• Departure time from the bivouac should be no later than 5 am.
• On the eve of the ascent day, mark the path to the terminal moraine of the Pyramida glacier.