1. Sports organization: Sports club of Moscow Aviation Institute
2. Ascent class: Technical
3. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains
4. Ascent route: Peak Sakharnaya Golova (4971 m) via the "pillar" (center of the north face)
5. Ascent characteristics: a) height difference 990 m (1095 and 65°); b) average steepness: 1) "pillar" — 75°, 2) route — 65°; c) length of the "pillar" — 675 m
6. Pitons driven: a) rock — 132 pcs., b) ice — 35 pcs., c) expansion bolts — none
7. Number of climbing hours: 42 hours

61

DESCRIPTION

Ascent to the peak Selegrad, cat. III first ascent via the South-West ridge Peak Selegrad. Start of the ascent to the South-West ridge. --- previously traversed route, cat. III

Ascent Log

I. Ascent classification: technical 2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains 3. Peak: Skalnaya Wall (4800 m), route via the Eastern ridge 4. Difficulty category: 4B 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — about 1400 m. Average slope — about 30°. Section lengths: 2nd difficulty category ≈ 1100 m, 3rd difficulty category ≈ 800 m, 4th difficulty category ≈ 550 m. 6. Pitons hammered for safety: rock — 33 (out of which for creating artificial footholds — 0), chocks — 4

Report

on the first traverse of the peak Skalnaya Stena from west to east with an exit to the ridge along the counterfort of the southern wall from the Dvoynoy pass, category 5A (approximately) in the account of the Volga Region mountaineering championship. August 1-2, 1968, Fan Mountains, Pamir-Alay.

I. Characteristics of the Area

Between the Gissar and Zeravshan ridges of the Pamir-Alay rises a cluster of short but high ridges - the Fan Mountains. The main ridge of the Fan range stretches from west to east in a continuous arc, convex to the south. It is intersected by two indistinctly expressed meridional ridges:

• the western one - with the Laudan pass (in the north) and the Dukdan pass (in the south);
• the eastern one - from the Pasrud River (in the north) to Lake Iskanderkul. At the intersections of these ridges are the highest peaks of the range - Chimtarga (5487 m) - the main peak of the area, located in the western node, and Big Ganiza (5415 m) - in the eastern node. The main ridges of the Fan range are composed of metamorphosed limestones, lying in thick strata. The weathered rocks of the peaks are very brittle. Rockfalls are a constant phenomenon in the Fan Mountains. The forms of rock weathering often have a superficial, pockmarked character. Such rock sections are very convenient to pass in rubber boots.

Report

The teams of climbers from the Kuibyshev Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society on the "Skalnaya стена" peak via the southern wall from the "Khoroshevsky" pass, category 4B-5A (approximately). July 30 - August 1, 1968, Fann Mountains. Protocol No. 293 dated 10.XII.68. Category 4B. The group is credited with a first ascent. Tolyatti

Route map

68

To the classification commission of the USSR Alpinism Federation

The route was included in the table according to a note made by V. Tselovakhin's group (1968), which passed the route to the ridge via Svido. (They named it via the S wall). The commission erroneously believed that both groups had passed the same route (this route — via the NW wall). The commission did not have S. Morozov's report.

• V. Shulepin
• April 20, 1984

Fann Mountains

Description of the first ascent: Skalnaya Stena peak – 5112 m, combined route via the north-west wall, 5B category of complexity. Completed on August 8–12, 1967, by a group organized by the sports club "GRANIT". Ascent leader — Master of Sports MOROZOV S.A.

RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION № 292 dated October 3, 1968 5A+Б It is given The route has not been entered, apparently, into the classification table of routes, as it was mistakenly believed that this same route was first passed by a group led by S. Morozov, who is listed in the table. V. Yumikevich April 26, 1984

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. ASCENT CLASS — technical.
2. ASCENT REGION — Pamir-Alay.
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Skalnaya Stena, 5112, via the left part of the center of the North face.
4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 5B.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: height difference — 810 m, length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 220 m, «––» — 5th cat. diff. — 430 m,

PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Pamir-Alai. Fann Mountains. Imat valley
3. "Stupenka" peak
4. Proposed 2B cat. first ascent
5. Height difference 250 m. Length of sections 3 cat. - 45 m 2 cat. - 250 m
6. 4 pitons driven, 10 chocks placed.
7. Duration - 2.5 hours
8. Team: Baykovsky Yu. V. MS

I. Rock Class

2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains. Imat Valley.
3. "Stupenka" Peak.
4. Proposed category 2B difficulty level. First ascent.
5. Height difference 250 m. Length of sections with category 3 difficulty – 35 m, category 2 difficulty – 250 m.
6. 5 pitons hammered, 8 chocks placed.
7. Climbing time – 2.5 hours.
8. Team members: Baykovsky Yuri Viktorovich MS
   • Gupalov Andrey II