1. Technical category
2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains (northern part). Imat Valley.
3. Eastern peak of "Paltsy" via the North-West ridge.
4. Proposed 2A category of complexity. First ascent.
5. Height difference 300 m. Length 500 m.
6. Length of sections — 1 category. 210 m. Pitons driven:

• rock — 2
• chockstones — 3
• ice screws — 1.

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing category
2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains. Imat valley.
3. Patrush peak.
4. Proposed 1B category of difficulty. First ascent.
5. Height difference 200 m. Length of sections: 2nd category of difficulty – 150 m 1st category of difficulty – 400 m
6. Pitons not used.
7. Moving time – 2.5 hours
8. Group members: Baykovsky Yu.V., Gupalov A.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO PUSHNOVAT-1 PEAK FROM PUSHNOVAT SADDLE (ORIENTED 3A)

Pushnovat-1 peak (4573 m) is located in the Fann Mountains in the upper reaches of the Pushnovat River, a tributary of the Archa-Maydan River, in the ridge that runs north from the Dukdon pass to the Sugar Head peak. Pushnovat-1 peak is one of the peaks of the Pushnovat cirque (see diagram). The peak is almost completely covered in snow and ice. Rocks are cleared of ice only at the highest points and on sheer walls. The snow line is at an altitude of 4000 m above sea level. The glacier is generally without crevasses. Two major crevasses are encountered on the route. There is snow on the glacier only after the second bergschrund near the exit to the summit. The rocks are monolithic. No significant destruction is noticeable. There are very few cracks for pitons. The most logical path to the summit is from the Pushnovat saddle, located in the ridge between the Pushnovat pass and Pushnovat-1 peak. The approach to the peak is along the Archa-Maydan River, on a good trail, then up the Pushnovat River. The base camp is above the confluence of the Sugar River with the Pushnovat River, near a large boulder (3360 m). Further on the trail leading to the Pushnovat pass, to the couloir to the Pushnovat saddle, the couloir is filled with snow. Steepness is 30–35°. Height 4200 m. From the saddle, a rise to the south along the snow-ice ridge to a group of rocks (4270 m), forming a gentle platform. The platform is convenient for a tent. From here, you can ascend all four Pushnovat peaks. The ascent can be divided into three stages:

Pixaxa Frozen Head

45, comb, with glacier A-basoi on the wall to the saddle of the 3rd ridge. Exit to the route from the foot of glacier A-basoi under the wall of the gendarme Amna-Krun of the 3rd rib of the summit. The ascent from the glacier to the wall of the gendarme is done via an ice pitch with a steepness of 50–60° and a length of about 150 m. When passing, steps are cut and ice axes are used (5–6 pcs.). After the ice pitch, there is a gully with rimed ice (30 m) of the same steepness. Insurance is hook, many loose rocks. From the gully, exit to rocks of medium difficulty (120 m). After the rocks, along a snow-ice slope, exit to a rock route выступ, where an overnight stay can be organized. From the overnight stay location:

• Ascent along a longitudinal ice slope (120 m) to a rock выступ (island).
• Further ascent along difficult steep rocks to the left of the couloir with rimed ice 20 m, 60–70°.
• The upper part of the couloir flattens to 40–45° (40 m).
• Exit to a weakly expressed rock ridge.
• Movement along a rocky ice slope (80 m) up to 70° to a mulde, then after 60 m along an ice slope - exit to the edge of a gendarme. There is a place for an overnight stay. All sections of the route are passed with thorough insurance, hook.

descent on a rope with leaving a loop. Further descent along the couloir and osnam bypassing the gendarme Amna-Krun to the pass between the peaks Moskva and Sakharnaya Golova. From the pass, descent to the Akhbasoy glacier. The travel time from the saddle between the peaks and the gendarme to the Akhbasoy glacier is about 4–6 hours.

Recommendations

I. It's better to start the ascent up the snow-ice slope to the gendarme not later than 7:00–7:30 am, when the snow is not too soft. When ascending from the saddle to the summit, have:

• one pair of crampons
• non-frozen sneakers

Central Sports Council, Malachite Sports Club

Psalmiro - Alay. Fann Mountains

Sugar Head 4971 m. Via North-East Ridge

5A category of complexity Team of Malachite Sports Club on a group voucher to Varzob Alpine Camp. Team captain - Yushkevich Vladimir Ivanovich - 1st sports category Team members:

• Kolesnikov Alexander Alekseevich - 2nd sports category
• Sergeev Yuri Olegovich - 2nd sports category
• Stepanenko Mikhail Mikhailovich - 2nd sports category

Republican Climbing Club

Council of the Union of Sports Societies and Organizations

Kazakh SSR

Report

On the ascent of Peak Sugar Head (4971 m) via the northeast edge (Fann Mountains, Pamir-Alay) (First ascent) Alma-Ata 1966 

Photo #1

NORTHEAST EDGE OF PEAK

Ascent Description of Sugar Loaf Peak via the Central Part of the East Face

Approximately 5–6 category of difficulty. The route was traversed by a group of participants from the LETI alpinade named after V.I. Ulyanov (Lenin). FAN MOUNTAINS, Leningrad, 1974 Peak Sugar Loaf (4971 m) from the east.

2. Brief Geographical Description of the Area and Sporting Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Sugar Loaf peak (4971 m above sea level) is located in the Zeravshan ridge (Fan Mountains). The section of the ridge where the peak is situated serves as a watershed for the basins of the following rivers:

• Akhbasoi (to the east)

Ascent Passport

I. Technical Climbing Category. 2. Area 5.3. Zeravshan Range. 3. Peak Sakharnaya Golova (4971 m), via the right buttress of the North face. 4. 5-6 difficulty category. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 970 m average steepness — 65°, section lengths: I difficulty level — 120 m, II difficulty level — 40 m, III difficulty level — 200 m, IV difficulty level — 430 m, V-VI difficulty level — 465 m 6. Pitons driven: for belaying — rock: 71, ice: 16, chocks: 14; for creating artificial anchors — rock: 3. 7. Total climbing hours — 24. 8. Two bivouacs on the route on platforms without a tent.

ASCENT DOCUMENT 60a

1. Climbing type — rock.
2. Climbing area, ridge — Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Sakharnaya Golova, 4971 m, via the "table" (center of the north face).
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1000 m, b) length of 5B category sections — 675 m ("pillar"). c) average steepness: "pillar" — 75°, route — 65°.
6. Pitons hammered: a) rock — 148, b) ice — 28, c) bolted — none.
7. Number of climbing hours — 31 h.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — 2 (1 — lying, 2 — semi-reclining).