169. Lekzyr Severnaya — Lekzyr Yuzhnaya

(combined route, E. Emelyanova, 4A cat. diff., fig. 24, 26). From the summit of Lekzyr Glavnaya (route 165, 166) descend along simple rocky Yuzhny ridge, then along shelves on its right side to the saddle of Yuzhny ridge. From the saddle descend on the left side of the ridge by 3–4 abseils 25–30 m and sport route to a platform. From the platform traverse right along snowy shelves, then along a narrow 20–25-meter couloir (chimney) and steep broken rocks to a platform on the saddle of the massif behind Bolshoy zhendarм. Make a bivouac on the platform. From Glavnaya summit 5–6 hours. From the platform — along simple rocks of the ridge, overcoming small rock towers head-on or

180. Svetgar East - West (combined route, G. Melia, category 4B difficulty, fig. 24, 27). From the summit Svetgar Main (route 179) rappelling 8-10 m. Along the simple destroyed snow-covered (cornices) rocky 250-300-meter Western ridge descend to the col under the East ridge of the summit Svetgar Central. On the col bivouac. From Main 1 hour. From the col along the simple snow-covered (cornices) East ridge ascend to the summit Svetgar Central. From Main 1.5-2 hours. From Central down 300-350 m along the ice-snow (cornices), then 60-80 m along the destroyed rocks of medium difficulty and 120-150 m along the wide ice-snow (cornices) Western ridge to a long col (cornices). From Central 2-3 hours. For the ascent to the West summit see route 177. From West 400-500 m down along the steep destroyed snow-covered (cornices) Western ridge. Overcoming "live" stones directly on the rocks of medium difficulty, three gendarmes, descend to the ice-snow col (cornice). On the col bivouac. From the previous bivouac 8-12 hours. From the col:

• 40-50 m up along the difficult wall to the shelf of the East tower of the gendarme "Dvuzubka";
• from the shelf bypass the tower of the gendarme along the difficult wall on the left "live" stones and exit to the isthmus under the ascent of the West tower. Along the simple sharp snow-covered 40-50-meter Western ridge ascend to the tower. From the bivouac site - 4-5 hours. From the West tower of the gendarme "Dvuzubka":
• 150-200 m down along the Western ridge to the isthmus under the gendarme;
• bypass the gendarme on the right along the shelf, behind it rappelling 30 m along the II ascent;

From the "Jailyk" alp camp along the right bank of the Adyr-su River to the cemetery. From the ruined corral, ascend via a trail to a large meadow with campsites and, veering right, continue on the trail to a long, steep ascent up a grassy slope. The trail then levels out, and we traverse the slope along it to two characteristic hills on the slope. At the saddle between the slope and the second hill, the trail turns right and upwards (route category 1 difficulty on Termen-bashi); a cairn is located here. From the cairn, continue traversing the slope without a trail, descending 15 m to a large talus slope resembling a scree. After the talus slope, the trail resumes, and along it, we ascend along the Sullukol River to a moraine and then to a lake. There are campsites available. The journey from the camp takes approximately 4 hours. From the lake, veer left to ascend a moraine ridge, and on the right-hand side (relative to the direction of travel) of the lateral gorge, exit onto the glacier. From the glacier, ascend via small talus slopes and steep, muddy moraine slopes to the base of Pik Stal. The journey from the lake takes about 2 hours. From the snow in the lowest part of the wall, ascend 20 m via moderately difficult rock climbing - a series of ledges - to an internal corner (category I difficulty). Then, ascend 40 m via the internal corner, which transitions into a chimney. The rocks are more challenging. The first 5 m are the most difficult (category 2 difficulty on a small ledge for one person). Continue as follows:

• Exit left into a crevice, ascending 40 m to a series of large and small ledges. Be cautious of loose rocks upon exiting onto the ledges!!!
• From there, ascend under an overhanging rock and then veer right (difficult climbing) behind a characteristic flake.
• From the flake, make a challenging 3-4 m ascent onto a large ledge.

Sarykol-Bashi 3B cat. sl. traverse height 4,100 m.

The Sarykol-Bashi peak is located in the Main Caucasian Ridge between the Granovskogo Pass (to the north) and the Mestiyisky Pass (to the south). From the hut, we head in the direction of the Granovskogo Pass. After reaching the pass, we go right along a steep snowy couloir, with the gendarme of the first peak remaining on the left. Then we move up along a vaguely expressed rocky ridge. Along the northern ridge of the first gendarme, whose upper part we traverse to the left, and down the broken rocks to a saddle. From the saddle, we climb up along a steep snowy ridge, crossing a small section of rocks. The ascent to the second gendarme is done by traversing to the right along a vaguely expressed slab. Crossing an icy couloir, we reach an internal corner, ascending to the left along difficult rocks. 8–10 m before the peak, there is a control cairn. Descent along simple rocks to a snowy saddle, followed by a steep ascent along a snowy ridge; we traverse to the left and up, and ascend to the eastern peak along simple rocks. After descending from the eastern peak, we cross a saddle and ascend to a wall. We pass the wall on the right side along an internal corner with careful belaying. Behind the wall, we move right along a ledge to a slab-like ridge. After passing several gendarmes, we reach the main peak. Further on the descent:

• We pass two gendarmes (from the second gendarme, we organize a rope descent).
• We successively cross two ruined rocky couloirs.
• We reach a snowfield that leads to the Mestiyisky Plateau. In bad weather, one should beware of thunderstorm discharges on the ridge. Time estimate:
• From the hut to the Granovskogo Pass — 1–1.5 hours

Tyutyu Central via the West Ridge, combined, 26 hours

Route description:

The path from the Ullutau alpbase to the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine near the West Tyutyu glacier follows the trail in the Kulukol gorge, on its left side, with a steep ascent to the glacier tongue. It's also possible to ascend via the Rayskie nochyovki (Paradise Camps) and exit onto the moraine shoulder of the West ridge of Shogentsukova peak. From the campsite, exit onto the glacier and move along its left part (closed crevasses!) to approach the Kulukol pass col, located under the southern slope of the West ridge of Tyutyu Zapadnaya peak. From the pass:

• Turn right
• Traverse the col along a simple snowy scree
• Ascend the ice-snow slope to the West ridge of Tyutyu Zapadnaya peak On the West ridge:
• Bypass the Katya Korlyakova gendarme (with a triangulation tripod on its summit)

Traverse Tyutyu Western–Eastern, combined, 3A

Route description:

From the "Dzhaulyak" alpine camp, follow the right (orthographically) bank of the Kullumkol River along the trail to a stream, then turn right into the gorge. Cross the stream and move up the trail, which runs along the moraine ridge towards the rock screes. Below the screes, turn right and cross the large talus to the trail leading to the edge of the terminal moraine. Tyutyu overnight campsite. 2.5 hours from the camp. From the campsite, move along the left (in the direction of travel) edge of the glacier along the moraine ridges to reach the plateau below v. Tyutyu 1st Western. The plateau has crevasses. Turn left on the plateau and, bypassing the ice ascent to the left, reach the glacier terrace, from which:

• a straightforward ascent to the Kullumkol Pass. If the snow is in good condition, from this terrace you can:
• turn right onto the steep snow-ice slope and immediately ascend to the ridge below the second "gendarm". From the pass:

56. Khimik - Treugolnik

(the route is combined by A. Yuryev, category 3B difficulty, fig. 5, 6). The path from the Alp лагеря "Ullutau" (a group of 4-8 people) to the summit of Khimik with a bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Severny Adyrsu glacier is described in route 45. From the summit of Khimik:

• along the snow-covered simple rocks of the long Western ridge
• passing a simple gendarme head-on
• ascend to the Ozernaya summit. From Khimik, it takes 30-40 minutes. From Ozernaya, descend along the simple snow-covered, gently sloping, with a steep shoulder, heavily destroyed (insurance) rocks of the Western ridge to the saddle under the Big Gendarme.

The route to the peak Shogentsukov via South ridge, cat. 2B (E. Fomushkin, 1965). Since 1965, the route has changed slightly. R1–R2. 90–100 m, 10–15 degrees, 1. From the shoulder of the South ridge of peak Shogentsukov, without descending to the glacier, to the right, along the South ridge. Along the large talus and destroyed rocks, approach a sharp gap in the ridge. R2–R3. 30–40 m, 20–25 degrees, 2. Descend into the gap (15 m, rappel) to the col of the South ridge. From the gap, along a small 8–10-meter couloir, ascend to an even, wide talus plateau. R3–R4. 90–100 m, 5–10 degrees. Along the plateau, approach the talus couloir. R4–R5. 70–80 m, 25–30 degrees, 2. Along the couloir, ascend 70–80 meters to a small col to the left of the ridge. R5–R6. 25 m, 45–60 degrees, 3–4. To the right along the rocks and steep inner corner with ice to the ridge. Along the ridge to the left, bypass the gendarme on the right side in the upper part. R6–R7. 2–3. Bypass several gendarmes along the ledges in a zigzag pattern (2nd and 3rd - to the left, 4th - to the right). R7–R8. Wide inclined ledge to the right of the 4th gendarme. 30 m. Cross to the left through the ridge to the snowy slope. R8–R9. To the right to the summit. Snowy slope 80 m. Kovalev A.N. 08/2020.

Ynom-Kichkidar, combined, 3A

Route Description

From the Ullu-Tau alpine camp, the path goes through the Djailyk alpine camp, then crosses the Kullum-Kom river via a bridge and follows a trail along the right bank up to the terminal moraine of the Yuzhny Ynom-Su glacier. The ascent to the moraine takes 1.5 hours. Follow the trail on the moraine to ascend to the glacier and reach its right (orographically) side, along which you should proceed to the so-called srednekichkidar bivouac. It takes 2 hours from the camp to the bivouac. From the bivouac, move along the right side of the Yuzhny Ynom-Su glacier to a counterfort descending from the Freshfield Pass. The pass resembles "Gates" - two rows of rocky outcrops. It takes 3 hours from the bivouac to the pass. Then, descend from the pass about 20 meters down the snowfield to the east, and then traverse left to a couloir descending from the southeast ridge of the Ynom-Kara-Tau peak. Climb out of the couloir onto the ridge on its left side. The path to the summit continues along rocky steps resembling adjacent slabs. These steps lead to a gully. Cross the gully to the right and ascend the rocks on its right side (in the direction of travel) to a saddle. The path goes along simple rocks (slabs) to the summit. The summit is a sharp ridge, about 2 meters high, with a crevice in its middle part. The ascent from the Freshfield Pass takes 2 hours. From the summit, the path follows the ridge to the end of the massif, where a descent is made down a wall (40 m rope) to a snowy saddle. Then, a large gendarme is bypassed on the left along a snowy-icy slope, and a straightforward ridge is reached. The following gendarmes ("hares") are also bypassed on the left, leading to the ridge of the "Kichkidar" peak. The summit is covered with smooth rocky slabs. Return to the "hares" gendarmes and descend to the bivouac along the Zapadny Ynom-Su glacier, keeping to the left side.

North Caucasian Federal District and Southern Federal District Alpine Climbing Championship, Altitude-Technical Category

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Dzhailyk via the left part of the 3rd wall of the southern ridge shoulder (Li route) Category 5B complexity by the team from Rostov Oblast from July 24 to July 25, 2024

I. Ascent Passport