Report

On the ascent of Peak Shchurovsky via the West face (through the "Gendarme" "Surkov")

Central Council of the DSO "Avangard"

Kiev — 1967

Data on team members

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief:

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT OF THE NORTH FACE OF PIK SHCHUROVSKOGO Central Council of the Sports Society "Avangard" Kiev — 1962 Profile of the lower part of the large rock island. Sections of the wall R7–R10. Photograph taken by V. Bocharov during the ascent of the northeast wall of Pik Shchurovskogo on July 14, 1962.

Introduction

Pik Shchurovskogo (4259) is located in the Central Caucasus and is situated in the ridge that borders the Shkheldy glacier from the northeast.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — winter.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. Peak Shchurovsky, 4259 m, via the northeast wall (V. Abalakov's route).
4. Category of difficulty: 5B.
5. Height difference: 800 m, length – 1050 m. Length of sections with category 6 difficulty — 220 m. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty — 780 m. Average steepness of the route — 68°. Average steepness of the main sections — 75°.
6. Number of pitons driven | Rock | Nut | Ice | Bolt | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- |

Report on the Ascent of the National Team of Karachay-Cherkessia to the Summit of Belalakaya 3861 m

via the South-Eastern Lap. Presumably 5A category of difficulty. First Ascent. Semenov M. A. — team leader Tkachenko V. I. — 1st sports category Report compiled in November 2019

2. Caucasus

2.2. From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass

Climbing Participants

1. Team Leader — Semenov Mikhail Alexandrovich. Candidate for Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A.

Report on the second ascent by the team from the multifaceted mountaineering club "Freeline" in Essentuki

To the summit of Zub Sofruju

via the direttissima of the western wall, 6A category of difficulty Leader: Popov Mikhail Lvovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich Essentuki 2020 Addresses: 357600, Stavropol Krai, Essentuki, Oktyabrskaya St., 434, apt. 59 Popov M.L. 89282657130

Report

On the ascent of the combined team of KCHR to the summit of Pik Ine 3455 m

via the southeastern counterfort. Presumably 4B category of complexity. First ascent. Semyonov M. A. — team leader Ankudinov A. I. — Candidate for Master of Sports Date of report compilation: November 2019

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass

Participants of the ascent

PASSPORT

Ascent to v. Hokel via the Eastern ridge

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range
3. Peak, route — v. Hokel, 3645 m, ascent via the Eastern ridge from the saddle between v. Hokel and the Nameless peak on the left.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 700 m length of sections: II cat. diff. — 400 m

Brief Characteristics of Dalar Peak

Dalar Peak (elevation 3981 m above sea level) is located in the western part of the Central Uplift of the Main Ridge. It is 25 km west-southwest of Elbrus. The chain of peaks (Filter, Zamok, Dvoinyashka, Dalar, and Shokoladny) bounds the cirque of the Bolshoy Kichkinokol glacier from the south, east, and west, giving rise to the eponymous river, which flows into the Uzunkol River. The first ascent to Dalar Peak was made in 1937 via route 3B cat. sl. After 1960, other routes were climbed and classified on Dalar:

• 5B on the North Face;
• 5B on the NE ridge;
• 4B from Shokoladny Peak;
• 4A from the south. The ridge from the east remained, which was traversed in the reverse direction (on descent) by a group from CSKA in 1962 during the traverse of the Kichkinokol horseshoe. The route along the Eastern ridge is very logical.

Sports Group Composition

Report on the ascent via the Central Bastion of the northern wall of Peak Burovsky (via the center of the bastion)

List of participants in the assault group

TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the northern wall.

• Height difference of the route: 1060 m
  • Including the most challenging sections: 410 m
• Steepness of the route: 80–90°
  • Including the most challenging sections: 80–90° | Date | Section № | Steepness of the section | Height of the section, in m | Terrain characteristics | Technical difficulties | Type of belay | Weather conditions | Departure time | Time of stopping at bivouac | Travel hours | Rock pitons | Ice screws | Bolts | Dural and wooden wedges | Bivouac conditions | Weight of daily ration, in grams |