Description of the First Ascent to the summit of Kara-Tau via the Southwest Ridge

Zailiyskiy Ala-Tau range. Covered in eternal snows, it stretches in a latitudinal direction for over 200 km. In its central part, it takes a direction close to meridional and reaches a height of five kilometers in the powerful Talgar trapezoid. East of Talgar is the peak Metallurg, whose pyramid rises to 4800 meters; to the southwest is Iyn-Tau, which raises its summit to 4830 meters. Against this backdrop, all other peaks seem like dwarfs, not representing sporting interest for climbers. But this is not the case. To the north of Metallurg peak, a spur called Ala-Tas (Motley stones) extends. In this spur, beyond the Taverentava pass, lies the Kara-Tau peak (Black mountain), for which the usual path via the Taverentava pass is not difficult and is classified as category 2A. From the west, three rocky ridges lead to the Kara-Tau peak, each representing significant sporting interest and considerable difficulty to overcome:

• the first ridge;
• the second ridge;
• the third ridge.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent region, ridge, gorge — Tian-Shan, Inylchek ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mayda-Adyr, 4090 m, via the right N ridge
4. Route difficulty category — 1B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 1590 m, section length — average slope —
6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — ice — protection gear —
7. Number of climbing hours — 12 h

The route via Novomoy­greche J-a­n.....

Ascent Passport

to Mt. Ala-Archa 4088 m. First Ascent

1. Ascent Class — rock
2. Ascent Region — Kyrgyz Range, Golubina area. Ala-Archa peak 4088 m via NE ridge. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B
3. Route Characteristics: height difference — 560 m, length of sections with category 4 difficulty — 65 m, category 3+ difficulty — 160 m, the rest — category 2 difficulty, average slope — 56° Pitons hammered: rock — 22 (0); fixed elements — 10 (0); ice — 0
4. Number of climbing hours — 12
5. Number of nights spent — none Leader — Bazarov Z.I.I. 1st sports rank

PHOTO BY SEMEN WITH CM. ROTSHEHROV AND ROMAN ROMANOV WITH "IO-MO-KO-MANM" ON NIINKA "SVE-NO" 64 p. GUEST

Passport

1. Technical Class
2. Ala-Archa, Ak-Sai gorge
3. Pik Box, 4240 m, via the left part of the North face
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Route height difference: 798 m Wall section height difference: 520 m Route length: 1175 m Wall section length: 545 m Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty: 455 m,

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge. 3. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via ice wall, 3rd cat. diff., ice-snow route. 4. Assumed category — (winter), first ascent. 5. Height difference: 1360 m. Wall section height difference — 600 m. Total length — 1995 m. Wall length — 770 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 610 m. Avg. slope — 53° (3450–4050 m). 6. Pitons hammered in: rock 9 placements ·18

Photo 1. Its profile — the western wall of the 5th Koronna tower (view from the Izyiskatel summit, 1966, after bad weather)

Author: Dmitry Pavlenko, Bishkek

Corona 6th tower 4B

It's great when you can climb two routes of the same declared category in one day; it makes comparison much easier. After Dvurogaya, we immediately climbed the 6th tower because I was very curious about where the 4B route was. The wall rising directly from the col looked inadequate, especially considering the year of the first ascent - 1959, so we went to examine the ledges from right to left. The ledges led us to fifth-category rocks, quite lively at the beginning. We managed to climb two full pitches of normal climbing, which we had to break into three sections for safety reasons. We climbed onto the col not far from the summit tower, with the rope on the ridge. Corona 6th tower 4B, crux We descended without problems via the ascent route, with two full rappels down to the piton traverse.

General view from the south. Arrows indicate ascent routes. Semenov-Bashi, 3602 m

Via the central bastion of the southern wall. Cat. 3A

From al "Alibek" up along the trail leading to the training slopes of Semenov-Bashi peak. From the rocks up along the grassy slopes in the direction of the southern wall of Semenov-Bashi peak to the large snow circus under the wall. From "Alibek" - 3 hours. Along the snowy slope with a steepness of 25-30° up to the central bastion of the Southern wall (the start of the route is to the right of the red arrow drawn on a light 8-meter rock). Along the rocks first up, then to the right, crossing the couloir, exit under the wall. Along the wall up to a large shelf. Control cairn. From the shelf to the right-up along the system of inner corners, shelves, and ridges - exit to a loose mulda and along it to the "roof". Along the easy rocks of the roof - exit to the Eastern ridge and along it to the left to the summit. From the start of the route 6-8 hours. Descent via route 1B (see below). Recommendations:

• Group size: 6 people
• Initial bivouac: under the Southern wall