Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Western Caucasus (from Nakhar Pass to Chipperazau Pass).
3. B. Nakhar (3780 m) via the northwest wall.
4. Category 6B difficulty.
5. Height difference: 1000 m, length — 1355 m. The average steepness of the route is 75° (see sheet 3, front side). Length of sections: 150 m — category 6, 330 m — category 5, 400 m — category 4, 210 m — category 3, 250 m — category 1.
6. Pitons hammered in: | | For belay | For creating artificial anchors | | :------------ | :------------- | :------------------------------ |

2. Group equipment: a) standard, additional, special equipment: | main rope | - | auxiliary rope | - | | -------------------- | - | ----------------------------- | - | | carabiners | - | ice axes | - | | ice screws | - | rock hammers | - | | ice hammers | - | rock pitons | - | | ice pitons | - | crampons | - | | harness | - | protection gear | - | | rappel slings | - | piton hammers | - | | sling-extenders | - | quickdraws | - |

CLIMBING ROUTE DOCUMENT

1. Technical category.
2. Caucasus, Tsey Valley.
3. Uilpata peak via South edge of the South-West ridge.
4. Proposed category 4B, combined, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain 1000 m, length — 1400 m. Length of sections with category 5A — 40 m, 4B — 200 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (the edge itself) 55–60° (3700–4500).
6. No pitons were left on the route.
7. Climbing time — 22 hours, duration — 3 days, including 1 day for "sitting out" bad weather.

Tactical Actions of the Team

The team's tactical actions were based on:

• available information about the routes (reports, photos, etc.);
• ensuring safety;
• experience in wall climbing. The Leningrad team has been gathering information about the Erydag massif since 1980. Therefore, based on the available materials, observations of the wall during previous visits to the area, and experience climbing on this wall, a tactical plan for the ascent was developed (see sheet 6), which was fully executed during the ascent.
• On August 3, 1987, at 5:00, the team, after preliminary processing of the first two ropes the day before, started on the route. Tsaruk works first. The other participants move along the fixed ropes.
• In a day, 16 ropes were passed and one processed.
• Overnight stay — comfortable, lying down, in a grotto (point 8), as planned according to the tactical plan.
• On August 4, 1987, they started work at 7:00. Pasikhin works first.

Traversing Kozelskaya Sopka from northwest to southeast with ascent to Zub Kozelsky via the northwest wall – category 3A (Figure 4)

From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, overnight stay in the Kozelsky Creek valley (see description for Zub Kozelsky – 1). On the right side of the canyon, across the moraine-covered glacier, bypassing a rock massif on the right (in the direction of travel) lateral moraine, exit into a wide snow-ice couloir with a slope of 30–35°, descending from the false pass. Staying on the left (in the direction of travel) side of the couloir, exit to the false pass in 2.5–3 hours. Movement is in teams. In the upper part of the couloir – 5 ropes, alternate belay. It is advisable to wear crampons, as there are sections of dense firn and ice in the upper part. From the false pass – ascent via a ridge leading to the western summit below a large gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the left in the direction of travel:

• 3 ropes
• step cutting
• piton belay (it is possible to drive pitons into the gendarme wall) After bypassing the gendarme, exit onto a ridge leading to the western summit of Kozelskaya Sopka via a cleft (1 rope, belay).

Passport

of the ascent made in the 1976 USSR Alpine Climbing Championship Ascent class — technically challenging. Ascent area — Central Pamir, Medvezhiy Glacier. Ascent route — Bastilia Peak (5432 m) via the northwest wall. Ascent characteristics:

• Elevation gain: 1900 m
• Average slope: 73°
• Length of challenging sections: 1400 m (elevation gain 1300 m, slope 83°)
• Number of pitons: rock — 316, ice — 5
• Number of travel hours: 82 h
• Number of nights: six (excluding processing day), including:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir, Peter I ridge
3. Summit: peak Agasis, 5730 m, counterfort of the north-eastern wall
4. Complexity category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference: 2200 m
   • length of sections with 5–6 cat. difficulty: 1700 m
   • average steepness: 75°

4.12.75

ON ASCENT TO PIK OKTYABR'SKOY REVOLYUTSII VIA SOUTH RIDGE FROM YAZGULEM-DARA GLACIER THROUGH PIK 6254 m. A COLLECTIVE OF ALPINISM INSTRUCTORS FROM THE ARMED FORCES OF THE USSR. THE ASCENT IS DEDICATED TO THE 50th ANNIVERSARY OF THE ARMED FORCES OF THE USSR. 1968 Photo 2. Pioneering ridge of Pik Revolyutsii. (Taken from the overnight stop on descent from Pik 6254 m.) The objectives of our team's ascents in the 1968 season were Pik 26 Baku Commissars (6834 m) and Pik Revolyutsii (6974 m). These peaks had been visited by Soviet climbers several times before, but all ascents were made either from the Fedchenko Glacier or the Grumm-Grжимайло Glacier. Our team's task was complicated by the fact that the chosen routes to these peaks started from the south, a region that Soviet climbers rarely explored. Participants of the Armed Forces (AF) gathering began preparing for the expedition in the autumn of 1967.

Passport

1. High-altitude class.
2. Pamir, Yazgulemsky Range.
3. Peak Revolyutsii, 6974 m, via the NE wall from Fedchenko Glacier.
4. Difficulty category — 6B.
5. Height difference — 1675 m. Route length: 2425 m, wall section — 1114 m, sections of 5–6 difficulty level — 880 m, including 100 m of 6th difficulty level. Average steepness of the main (wall) part of the route — 63° (5300–6320 m), including 80° — 110 m, 85° — 60 m, 90° — 40 m.
6. Use of protection points: | Pitons | Placements | | :----------------------: | :-------: | :-------: | :-------: | | Rock | Bolt | Ice | |

North Caucasus and Southern Federal Districts Climbing Championship

high-altitude technical class

REPORT

On the ascent of Jailyk peak via the 3rd wall of the S. shoulder of the S. ridge (D. Laskavy's route) 5B category of complexity by the team from Rostov Region for the period from July 24–25, 2024.

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION