Zarafshan Range
Route Description: СВ гребню
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to Peak Vladivostok (4257 m) via the North-Eastern ridge, category 3B difficulty level in Pamir-Alay.
PASSPORT
Ascents
- Ascent class — technical.
- Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge.
- Peak — Pik Vladivostok (4257 m) via the North-Eastern ridge.
- Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
- Route characteristics: elevation gain — 687 m; length of category 2 sections — 282 m; » » category 3 — 303 m;
Route Description: СВ гребню
SSummitMateDescription of rock climbing on the rocky island east of the original central ridge, route details and photographs.
Rocky island east of the initial central one
Route Description: СВ гребню
SSummitMateAscent to Khan-Tengri peak via the classic route from South Inylchek glacier.
puc3
Route Description: СВ гребню
SSummitMateAscent to Mount Everest via the South Col: description of the route, key points, and technical implementation features of the most challenging mountaineering task.
Route Description: ЮВ стене с пер. Центральный
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent of Pik Vladivostok (4257 m) via the Eastern wall from Central Pass, with a complexity category of 5A, completed by a group of Dnipropetrovsk climbers in 1980.
PIK VLADIVOSTOK (4257 m) from Pereval Tsentralny via southeast wall, cat. III, 5A
— first ascent
Ascent leader — Sharadin V.I.
Team members:
- Timofeev V.N.
- Merkovich V.B.
- Lebedev G.I.
- Baranov V.A.
- Prokopovich S.K.
Route Description: С ребру
SSummitMate**First Ascent of Zamin Karor East in the Gissar Range, Pamir-Alay, via the North Ridge** A detailed description of the route and technical details of the first ascent.
5.2
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — technical ascent
- Ascent area — PAMIR-ALAI, HISSAR RANGE
- Ascent route — ZAMIN KAROR EASTERN-II 4554 m, from the north via the edge
- Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1204 m, average steepness 59°, length of complex sections — 830 m.
- Hooks used: rock — 123, ice — 11, bolt — 0
- Total hours on the route — 25.3 hours
- Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — 2 bivouacs
- Team name: team from Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society
Route Description: С ребру
SSummitMateDescription of the geographical features and history of exploration of the Yaghnob Wall area, also known as Zamin Karor, located in the northern spur of the **Gissar Range**.
"... I felt offended that someone had been here before me, and at the same time I was proud of the human mind and will. From here, he had already conquered the mountains..." N. V. KRYLENKO "On unexplored Pamir"
Zamin Karor
Climbing history of the area
From V. Stukhin's report, 1976
Diagram # 3
Photo # 1. X — pass Tsentralny
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
SSummitMateDescription of a technical route, category 5B difficulty level, to the summit of Zamin Karor (4767 m) via the northwest wall, first ascended by a team of climbers in 1979.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — technical
- Ascent area — Gissar Ridge
- Peak — Zamin Karor (Eastern) 4767 m, via the northwestern wall
- Proposed difficulty category — 5B
- Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1065 m; b) length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1228 m; c) average steepness — 65°.
- Number of pitons:
Route Description: с севера по черному треугольнику
SSummitMateReport on the ascent to the summit via a challenging alpinist route with a detailed description of the sections traversed and their difficulty.
- Assault team and observation group composition. | # | Full Name | Year of Birth | Sports Rank | Responsibilities and Participation in Events | | :-: | :------------------- | :-----------: | :---------: | :------------------------------------------- | | 1. | Lapshin L. L. | 1943 | MS | Team Captain and Coach | | 2. | Lavrukhin V. I. | 1948 | CMS | Deputy Captain | | 3. | Tkachev V. K. | 1937 | MS | Participant | | 4. | Korzhavin A. P. | 1939 | CMS | Participant | | 5. | Kim T. | 1947 | CMS | Did not participate | | 6. | Filipov A. K. | 1947 | CMS | Did not participate | Observation Group:
Route Description: с севера по черному треугольнику
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent of category 6 complexity route to Zamin-Karor peak (4767 m) in Pamir-Alay.
1. Climbing Passport
- Climbing category — technical
- Climbing region — Pamir-Alay
- Peak, its height, and route — Zamin-Karor, East peak 4767 m, from the north through the central part of the black triangle, first ascent.
- Estimated difficulty category: 6th cat. diff.
- Route characteristics:
Height difference: 1452 m.
Length of sections:
- RII – 465 m
- RIII – 275 m