Report

on the first ascent of the group from the Magnitogorsk Alpine Club to the summit 4292 m (“Peak of the Magnitogorsk Alpine Club”) via the southwest slope and west ridge Leader of the first ascent in 2015: Sergey Soldyatov, e-mail: sswmgn@ya.ru, phone: 8-912-806-00-54 Coach: Sergey Soldyatov, e-mail: sswmgn@ya.ru, phone: 8-912-806-00-54

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range.
2. Summit: 4292 m (Proposed name “Peak of the Magnitogorsk Alpine Club”). Location: (39°13′30.3″ N 68°45′54.6″ E).
3. Route: via the southwest slope and west ridge.
4. Category: 3A, first ascent.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge, Rog valley — 5.3.3.
2. Peak MSU, 5430 m, via E edge of N wall and NE ridge (via shoulder 4831)
3. Category 4B, first ascent
4. Route type — snow and ice
5. Route height difference 1250 m (by GPS) Route length 2350 m. Length of sections 5 — 10 m, 6 — 0 m. Average slope: main part of the route — 52°, entire route — 37°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total 2; including bolted 0. Used on the route: rock pitons 3, chocks 2, ice screws 68. Used pitons: bolted stationary 0, including ITO 0, bolted removable 0, including ITO 0.
7. Team's travel hours: 44 h, 5 days.

Photo 1. Panorama of the Tutek massif from the Samjon river valley Photo 2. MSU peak from the start of the route Photo 3. Overcoming the bergschrund (section 4230–4240) Photo 5. The same (view back) Photo 4. Traversing the snow-ice slope (section 4240–4340)

I

Climbing Passport

1. Type of ascent — first ascent
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Ridge
3. Peak — Tutek-peak (5435 m) via SE bastion of the wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B (first ascent)
5. Height difference — 2200 m including:

• Bastion — 1480 m
• Length — 5557 m