In the western part of the Zeravshan range, between the basins of the Sev-Charya and Ktut-Charya rivers, a relatively isolated massif rises - the so-called Seven Lakes. The upper parts of this mountain node reach a height of 5500 m. Peaks exceeding 5000 m:

• Chishtarg - 5487 m
• Bolshaya Ranza - 5415 m
• JKCDOP - 5208 m
• Energiya - 5105 m and others (up to 10 peaks in total). The Seven Lakes occupy the space between the Zeravshan and Ryesassky ranges. Large glaciation in this area is predominantly found on the northern slopes. South of the upper Bolshaya Ranza, in the upper reaches of the Penander-Charya river, at an altitude of 2238 m, lies the vast and very picturesque Lake Penander-Chul of dammed origin. This area is still little explored.

— 2 — The foaming distribution follows this pattern:

• Nn-lp­ppp­purov
• Tu­tup­ppp­-lsr- li­s
• Aran­chso­v-Јi­lov Then count by (2) and (3). The section is not very long, 30–40 m, but steep. At the pass, all the participants of Катьцит and Перопутная started at 9:00. Then they moved along the gully, traversing the funnels of Перопутная and Медведна (4) and (5). The ascent to the peak Бпо­б — (6) is done via destroyed slopes with simultaneous belay. We reached the peak at 14:30. We started descending from the peak at 14:30. We descended to the ridge below the funnels of Бпо­б and Бо­две­дна. From this point on, we descended, roped together, along a gentle slope that descends to the river Бпо­б. Further, we followed the right bank of the river Бпо­б or a trail through a clearing with a rainforest. We returned to camp at 15:40. V N O L N

1. The ascent to the peak Бпо­б via the western ridge is a Category 2A route.
2. The height of the peak is approximately 440 m.

Sports group of MGS DSO "SPARTAK" gathering Serebryakova V. 2nd sports category — leader Bashkirov V. CMS, Ginzburg V. CMS, Klimashin V.V. 1st sports category, Bychkov A. 2nd sports category, Ponomarenko B. 1st sports category, Sadovnikov V. 1st sports category, Leonov K. 1st sports category — representative of a/l Varzab.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Region of ascent — 5.3.А.
3. Peak Vilnius, 4120 m.
4. Difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics, length of sections: II, III, IV, V — 400 m, 30 m, 160 m, 120 m.
6. Pitons hammered: | | For belay | For standing pitons (ITOs) | | :------------------ | :-------- | :------------------------- |

Report on the first ascent of Peak "Vilnius" via the NW buttress, category 3B difficulty Team of the "Zalgiris" Sports Society. Leader: A. P. Baublis. Coach: A. V. Petrov, Master of Sports. Vilnius, 1973.

1. Introduction. Rationale for the Route Choice

From July 13 to August 13, 1973, sports training camps for Lithuanian mountaineers were organized in the Fan Mountains by the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR. Along with other tasks, the camp leadership planned to ascend an unnamed peak and decided to name it "Vilnius" in honor of the city's 650th anniversary. During a consultation with N. Paganucci, a great connoisseur of the Fan Mountains, it was discovered that near the base camp, in the area of the Akhsu River (also known as Akhbaсай), there was a beautiful unnamed peak that was chosen as the object of the ascent.

2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Peak "Vilnius" is a rocky massif with steep walls on the east, north, and west sides, and only on the south side does it connect via a narrow pass to the "Zonatar" peak. From this pass, there is a convenient and quick descent via scree to the west. The northern wall connects to the eastern and western ridges, along which two ascent routes to Peak "Vilnius" were planned. Both routes are purely rock climbs, with snow only at the summit and in some places on the northern part of the peak. The approach to the foot of the peak is convenient and takes about 1.5–2 hours of walking from the base camp by the Arg River. The path goes along the right bank of the Akhsu River. After fording the river at the koshi (rapids), one exits directly to the routes. This location has a convenient spot for a bivouac.

Ascents

1. Climbing category: Rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Zeravshan Range.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Vilnius, 4120 m, first ascent via the northeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 820 m
   • Average steepness: 53°
   • Length of sections: R1–R100 m, R2–R160 m, R3–R530 m, R4–R200 m, R5–R200 m.

To the Classification Commission

Moscow City Council of the Spartak Volunteer Sports Society

Ascent to peak "Vilnius" via the 3rd wall, made by the team of Moscow City Council of the Spartak Volunteer Sports Society via route 4B cat. difficulty Pamir-Alay Fann Mountains, Arg gorge August 1976

I. Characteristics of the region and the object of ascent.

The mountain system that includes the Fann Mountains occupies an intermediate position between Tian Shan and Pamir and is called the Pamir-Alay. Ongoing mountain formation processes lead to significant folding disturbances. The actions of water and wind exacerbate these disturbances. All of this together affects the terrain. A large difference between winter and summer temperatures affects the formation of cracks. The ridges of the Fann Mountains have many walls reaching a height of two kilometers, canyons, and towers. The mountain crests abound with gendarmes and weakly fixed large blocks.

Назепо — bivouac — 3 vak becomes Nazepo — bivouac — 3 vak

Route Description

Ascent to v. Malaya Ganza via the northwestern ridge, category 2B. From the base camp, move up the valley along the left (orographic) bank of the Arg river. Cross the Suvtor river, which flows from the northwestern glacier (1 hour's walk from the camp), and continue along its left bank to the Yashnovaya river (30 minutes from the Suvtor river crossing). The path goes up a steep rocky scree. Move along the left (orographic) bank of the Yashnovaya river to the north, towards the "ram's foreheads" (baran'i lby). The "ram's foreheads" are steep and slippery; it's possible to move without being roped up, but with caution (snowy scree, rockfall, and heavily glaciated "ram's foreheads"):

• Snowy scree
• Rockfall
• "Ram's foreheads" are heavily glaciated Beyond the first stage of the "ram's foreheads", there's another scree slope, which is moderate and steep. To the left, the "ram's foreheads" continue as a ridge. Move up the scree slope and a cascade of waterfalls that descend from the next stage of the "ram's foreheads". Caution is necessary on this section due to rockfall and potential icefall, as the path lies beneath the tongue of the glacier.

In the up­per reaches, the val­ley is nar­rowed by snow, there are few trails. View of the summit and saddle see Fig. I. From the bivouac to Gusev's saddle — 4–4.5 hours of walking. From Gusev's saddle, move straight up in the direction of and along the ridge between Pik Chyorny and v. N. Ganz. At the glacier's ascent, there are many hazardous sections on the ridge, partially covered with snow. Movement without crampons is possible. One should move in rope teams, with occasional use of transverse belay. From the ridge, move left onto the snowy ascent (2 ropes), then to the summit (2 ropes), which is a rocky ridge: to the north and northeast — a firn dome, divided by a small saddle into western and eastern summits, both having small rocky outcrops. The summit drops off with sheer rocky walls to the north and southwest. Time from Gusev's saddle to the summit — 2–2.5 hours. In good weather, the summit offers a panorama of all the peaks in the Sansarsky Mountains system. To the northeast, the massive array of Bolshaya Gavza is visible, along with the spurs of the pyramid of Pik Krasnykh Zor. To the north and northeast are visible:

• Pik Chyorny,
• p. Zarnok,
• Meropo,
• v. Chintarga,
• p. Energiya,