3720

Ascent to the top of Znachkist

from the Siamy circus — 2A cat. dif. The approach to the summit from the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Siamy River passes along the right-hand (in the direction of travel) lateral moraine to the terminal moraine of the glacial circus. The glacier is now absent. The ascent to the moraine and movement along the moraine occurs along a stream, leading to the foot of the summit. The ascent to the summit goes along a wide snow couloir descending from the saddle (Nishon pass between the IV peak of the Siamy Crown and the Znachkist peak). It is recommended to pass through early in the morning and under the cover of the rocks on the left side of the couloir, as stonefall is possible. In the middle part of the couloir: transition to the right, movement along the talus, snow is possible. In the upper part, the couloir opens widely into the slope. The slope is composed of inclined smooth slabs, partially covered with talus. The ascent from the snowfield to the ridge takes 2–2.5 hours. To reach the saddle, go left of the first pointed gendarme. Bypassing it on the left and not approaching the second gendarme on this saddle, traverse the slope to the left along the snow. Along the slope, approach a barely noticeable couloir descending from the ridge of the Znachkist peak. The ascent to the ridge goes along the left side of the couloir for 25–30 m and leads to an inclined slab. Traversing it to the right, ascend to the ridge. The further path along the ridge is along rocks of medium difficulty. The length of the section is 80–90 m. The summit is not characteristically pronounced. The ascent from the pass to the summit takes about 1 hour.

54

Description of the Traverse

V. Igizak (2A cat. dif.) V. Igizak is located in the southern spur of the Gissarsky Ridge and is the 20th peak to the west of the M. Igizak pass (the first from the pass is v. M. Igizak). From the overnight stay on the green meadow located under v. Bivachnaya, it is necessary to move up along the right bank of the Igizak river in the direction of the M. Igizak pass. The path goes along grassy slopes and scree, and after an hour's walk, you can approach the snowfields under the M. Igizak pass. To the right, a snow corrie diverges, along which you should ascend into the cirque of the Dvukhzubki and Igizak peaks. This ascent takes about an hour. From the east, the peak drops off with sheer rock walls of 500–600 m. By bypassing v. Igizak (leaving it to the left), you should exit onto its southwest ridge. The ascent to the summit from the ridge is combined (rock and snow), technically simple, and takes 30–40 min. The height of the peak above sea level is about 4200 m. The descent from the summit can be made along the Southeast ridge, starting from the southwest subsidiary summit, from where you should first descend for 15–30 min. along a narrow couloir with further exit onto the ridge. Along the ridge, the path goes with alternate belay with a predominant exit to the right along the way. There are several short rock walls that can be passed with alternate belay. The further path passes along the ledges, to the right along the way with uncomplicated rocks, and leads to the Nayzakhba pass, from where we descend to the overnight stay. The entire traverse of v. Igizak from the overnight stay on the green meadow and back takes 6–7 hours.

28. Bolshoy Igizak from Naizgba Pass, category 2A route, fig. 14.

From the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, proceed upwards along the Igizak River through grassy slopes and scree, and then through snow. Then, turn right and begin ascending through a snow-filled depression under the northern slopes of Maly Igizak peak. Before reaching the slopes of Bolshoy Igizak, traverse left towards Naizgba Pass. The ascent to the pass is over snow. Fig. 14. From the pass, ascend upwards via scree, keeping the ridge to the right. After circumventing the lower part of the ridge, access it via ledges and continue moving along the ridge over moderately difficult rock terrain, overcoming short walls interspersed with ledges. Belaying is simultaneous and alternating. Before reaching the summit, prior to a steep rise in the ridge, exit the ridge to the right via ledges into a narrow couloir and ascend approximately 30 m through it. The upper part involves navigating large, wedged rock blocks. The couloir leads to the western ridge of the peak, from where the summit is reached to the right via snow. The descent from the summit is along the western ridge — route 27. The ascent takes 6–7 hours.

North face of Bolshoy Igizak (via the cleft)

Category 3B difficulty The route along the wall passes through a clearly visible cleft that crosses the wall diagonally towards the saddle. Section 1. The path initially passes through easy rocks upwards, emerging onto an inclined ledge that crosses the wall upwards from right to left. Section 2. Along the ledge, we move left and upwards to the start of a slab (weakly pronounced) that ascends the wall towards the summit. The movement is simultaneous. The section is 15 m long, and the ledge is 0.5–1 m wide. Section 3. We ascend via a not clearly visible groove approximately 5–6 m upwards to narrow inclined shelves that traverse the wall horizontally. We traverse to the right along the shelves (6–7 m) and reach the base of the cleft that ascends the wall towards the saddle. Steepness is 70–80°. Protection is via pitons. Rocks are of medium difficulty. Section 4. Upwards through the cleft (approximately 40 m) to where it ends at a wall at the base of a large, sharp rock outcropping. Here, there is a ledge suitable for organizing protection. The overall steepness of this section is 75°. When moving up the cleft, three main sheer walls, each 2–3 m high, are overcome. Handholds are available.

Ascent Passport

Climb Category: Rock (Combined) Peak, its height, and ascent route: Bolshoy Igizak via N wall 4100 m (via cleft) Estimated Difficulty Category: 4A (35) Route Characteristics:

• Height difference: 350 m
• Average steepness: 50°
• Length of sections:
  • I: 200 m
  • II: none

The North Face of Bolshoy Igizak — Cat. 4A

Section R1

Movement along a snow-ice couloir (steepness up to 35° at the end) on the right side (in the direction of travel) straight up to the beginning of the sheer walls of Igizak. At this point, there is the last section where one can transition from snow to rocks, overcoming a 2-meter wall and a small bergschrund (in the spring, the wall may be covered with snow). We emerge onto a small platform at the base of a low (3 m) internal corner with an overhang. The length of the section from the foot is 100 m, movement is simultaneous.

Section R2

The corner is traversed using artificial support points (one ice screw and one rock piton) with an exit onto not very steep (45°) rocks. The rocks are weathered granite, smoothed, and are climbed on friction straight up with an exit onto a small platform and a ledge at the foot of sheer rocks. The route length is 60 m. Climbing is not difficult. 2-3 pitons (one ice screw).

Section R3

Along an inclined ledge 3-4 m long, we traverse to the right towards a wall (2 m) and, having passed it, emerge onto an inclined small platform. Descending from it 3-4 m, we come out onto a horizontal wide ledge. The route length is 20 m. The rocks are simple, one piton.

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Большой Игизак via the left edge of the north-eastern wall along the route 4А cat. diff. (first ascent). August 23, 1979 Yu. Krasnoukhov, V. Gusev, 15. Kudrisov. 10 ✓, 34 m, 3.8 h. 240 m, 1951, 201.

Photo 2. Route profile.

• VISIBLE PART OF THE ROUTE

I. Class of ascent — rock 2. Re­gion of as­cent — Pami­ro-Alai, southern bran­ches of the Gis­sar ridge, Igi­zak valley 3. Ver­tex Big Igi­zak, 4100 m, via the left edge of the NE wall 4. As­sumed dif­fi­cul­ty cat­egory — 45635 г 505, №14(3–81) 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 240 m, average steepness — 60°, length of sections — total — 405 m, 2nd difficulty grade — 70 m, 3rd difficulty grade — 112 m, 4th difficulty grade — 195 m, 5th difficulty grade — 20 m 6. Rock hooks ham­mered in to cre­ate i.t.o. 7. Num­ber of tra­vel hours — 8 hours

23.558

Description of the Traverse

Mt. Igizak (Category I difficulty) From the overnight stay on the green meadow located below Bivouachnaya Mt. Byravnaya, one needs to move upwards along the Igizak River, initially through grassy slopes and scree, and then through snow. After 1.5–2 hours, one can reach the Naizakhba Pass, situated between the peaks of Igizak and Maly Igizak. The ascent to the summit of Mt. Igizak follows the western ridge, which consists of easy rocks. The movement is simultaneous. The ascent from Naizakhba Pass to Mt. Igizak takes 40–50 minutes. The summit elevation is approximately 3700 m. The eastern ridge features alternating sections of small snowfields, easy rocks, and small scree. The descent follows the right side of the ridge (three gendarmes remain on the left) down to Maly Igizak Pass, with simultaneous movement throughout. From Maly Igizak Pass, the descent to the overnight stay via snowfields presents no difficulties. For a small group, the descent from Mt. Igizak to Maly Igizak Pass takes 25–30 minutes, and from Maly Igizak Pass to the overnight stay, it takes 40–50 minutes. Compiled by: Mashkov V. S.