First Ascent of Hazor-Mech Peak via the Northeast Face, Category 3A Difficulty

MOSCOW — 1963 Hazor-Mech peak (View from the Shadon River valley) Map of the Fann Mountains area

Description of the Climbing Area

In the western part of the Zeravshan Range, between the Dan-Darya and Kshut-Darya river basins, lies a relatively isolated massif known as the Fann Mountains. The peaks of this mountain node reach heights of 5500 m (Chimtarga — 5487 m, Big Ganiza — 5415 m, Dukdon — 5208 m, Zengia — 5105 m, etc.) — a total of up to 10 peaks exceeding 5000 m. The Fann Mountains are situated between the Zeravshan and Gissar Ranges. Significant glaciation in this area is primarily found on the northern slopes. South of Big Ganiza peak, in the upper reaches of the Iskander-Darya River, at an altitude of 2238 m, lies the large and very beautiful Lake Iskander-Kul, which is a dammed lake. This area remains understudied, and many peaks await their first ascents.

56. Yakum from the southwest, route 2A cat. diff., fig. 29.

From the bivouac, ascend via the left couloir in the direction of the summit. Then turn right onto the slope towards the saddle between the gendarmes to the left of the Yakum pass. There may be snow on the slope. From the saddle, move up the grassy slope, bypassing individual rock outcrops, in the direction of the uppermost saddle in the second ridge. From the saddle, exit left under the wall, before reaching the couloir that descends steeply from the ridge. Ascend 40 m of steep rocks with piton belay to reach the couloir. Then continue up the couloir to the black rocks, from where follow the ledges to the ridge. Cairn. Fig. 29. Continue to the summit along the broken ridge with three gendarmes. Descend from the first gendarme 5–6 m down a sheer wall. The remaining gendarmes are traversed with alternating belay. Reach the summit via a broad and gentle ridge. Descend from the summit to the west — 1B cat. diff. (route 55). The ascent takes 4–5 hours.

55. Yakum from the West, 16 cat. sl. route, fig. 29.

From the bivouac, ascend via the left couloir towards the summit. The main massif of the summit has characteristic rust-colored rocks, and to its left, the western ridge has grey rocks. Then, turning left up the slope, ascend to the western ridge of the summit. On the grassy slopes, there are individual rock outcrops and many loose stones. The oblique rust-colored rocks of the summit remain to the right. On the slopes, there are dry riverbeds. Follow one of them, and then ascend via a wide scree-filled couloir to the ridge. Travel along the ridge is over rocks and snow. Short, steep sections are traversed with simultaneous belay. The ascent to the summit is via easy, crumbling rocks. The descent from the summit is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 3–4 hours. Fig. 29.

9. Helmet via the western wall to the northern ridge, route 46 cat. dif., Fig. 4.

From the base camp, ascend along the Siam at first along the moraines, and then, turning right, reach the Big Siam glacier. Leaving the peaks to the right:

• Medvezhiy Zamok (Bear Castle)
• Shlem (Helmet) approach the western wall of the northern ridge of the peak. The approach from the base camp to the peak takes 4 hours. There are camping sites on the moraine. The characteristic color of the wall of the northern ridge of the peak is yellow-green. Three inclined veins run along the wall from top right to left:
• The right vein leads to the highest visible part of the wall from below,
• The middle vein is in the center,
• The left vein leads to the rocky gate on the ridge.

Conclusions

1. The ascent to the summit of Shlem via the western wall to the northern ridge is a rock climbing route of category 4B difficulty.
2. The total height difference: glacier — Shlem summit — 450 m.
3. The height of the western wall of the northern ridge — 200 m.
4. The average steepness of the wall — 70°.
5. The number of rock pitons hammered into the wall — 25.
6. The group took 16 hours to reach the summit from the glacier.
7. The most technically challenging sections:
   1. 150 m rock couloir.
   2. 80 m wall of the Shlem pinnacle.

8. Шлем from the south, route 4A category, fig. 4.

From the base camp (no later than 4 hours) up Siamese by moraines, and then, turning right, exit to the circus of the Bolshoy Siamy glacier. The further path goes to the ridge connecting the peaks Шлем and Медвежий Замок. Ascend to the saddle over scree and snow. Control tour. From the saddle over scree on the right, exit to an indistinct ridge and over slabs to a wall 4 m high and up to 12 m wide. The wall is overcome on its right part. Piton belay, climbing is difficult. Above the wall is a ledge, along which go to its end on the left under the next wall 2 m high. Behind the wall, cross the couloir along the ledge and exit onto inclined slabs of the ridge. Fig. 4. Move along the ridge for about 100 m with alternating belay until the ridge dips. Descend into the dip on a rope. Further movement is on the left side of the ridge over slabs. After 100–120 m, exit to a saddle under the summit wall. The wall is about 100 m high. The first 10 m of the wall from the saddle are climbed vertically upwards. The rock is difficult. Then move left and up along ledges to the base of a cleft, which is used to overcome the rest of the wall. At the top, the cleft leads to a wide (10–15 m) ledge with scree. On the entire wall, the belay is piton. From the ledge, move right and up a wide cleft (in the lower part, a chimney). The cleft leads to inclined slabs and scree of the summit dome. Descend from the summit via the ascent route. On the wall, re-rope and pull out the rope. The ascent takes 12–14 hours.

140

Ascent to Shlem Peak (from the west), 4A cat. diff.

The ascent to the summit is made from the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Siam River. From the camp, you should follow the left bank of Siamy, initially along the moraines with a sharp gain in height, and then, turning to the right, enter the circus of the B. Siamy glacier. The further path goes to the ridge connecting the peaks Shlem and Medvezhiy Zamok. The ascent to the saddle (the lowest point of the ridge) is carried out along the talus and snow. There is a control cairn on the saddle. From the saddle, go along the talus on the right to a poorly defined ridge and along the slabs to a wall 4 m high and 10–12 m wide. The wall is overcome in its right part. The belay is hooked, climbing is difficult. Above the wall is a ledge, along which you can move to its end to the left under the next wall 2 m high. After overcoming the last one, cross the couloir along the ledge and reach the inclined slabs of the ridge. Move along the ridge with alternate belay for about 100 m to the lowering in the ridge. Descend into the failure on a rope. Further movement along the left side of the ridge along the slabs. The belay is hooked. After 100–120 m, reach the saddle under the wall of the summit. The height of the wall is about 100 m. The first 10 m of the wall from the saddle are passed vertically upwards. The rocks are difficult. It is recommended to move in rubber shoes. Then, along the ledges, go up to the left to the base of the cleft, along which the rest of the wall is overcome. At the top, the cleft ends with a wide (10–15 m) ledge with talus, where water flows on the left. On the entire wall, the belay is hooked. From the ledge, go up to the right along a wide cleft (in the lower part of the chimney). The belay is hooked. The cleft leads to inclined slabs with talus of the summit dome. Along the slabs to the summit — 150 m.

Shirokaya from the East

Description of the ascent via the 3B category difficulty route.

I. Approaches

The approaches are similar to those for all the peaks of the Tajik Igizaks.

II. Ascent

The ascent begins from the col between Shirokaya and Malyshka peaks. The journey from the camp on the Sioma River to the col takes 2.5–3 hours. The ascent to the ridge is via a wide crevice, not visible from the col, but discernible to the right of it: – From the col, straight and to the right (1×60 m) along moderately difficult rocks (4 pitons). We enter the crevice and proceed along easy rocks (2×60 m) with protection via protrusions to its upper part. – Up the wall to the left (1×30 m) along moderately difficult rocks (2 pitons) to reach the start of the ridge route. – The ridge is traversed with protection via protrusions.

REPORT

on the ascent of Pik Chetyrekh. Pik Chetyrekh is located in the area of Tajikskiye Igizaki. The height of the summit, which stands out from the ridge between Pik Oktyabr and Pik Sieh, is 4200 m. To the north, towards the Maykhura River, the entire ridge drops off with a wall having a height difference of 400 (near Pik Oktyabr) to 700–800 m (near Pik Sieh). To the south, the slopes are more gentle and fragmented, and the length of rock routes does not exceed 300 m. The area began to be explored by climbers from DCCO "Khosilot" in 1962. From the north, under the wall, climbers were present in 1965–1966. In 1969, during the ascent of Pik Oktyabr on November 7, the route for the ascent was planned. On October 1, 1971, the sports group along with observers left the city and spent the night on the bank of the Maykhura River at the entrance to the gorge. On October 2, they made their way under the glacier, where the observation group remained. The approach to this place—a large green meadow—takes 1.5 hours, following the right side of the stream (there is a trail). The planned ascent route went along the main counterfort of the northern wall of Pik Chetyrekh, bordering on the right a bowl-shaped glacier and the glacier fall under the wall (see photo). The approaches to the start of the counterfort were made:

• initially across the "sheep's foreheads",
• then down to the counterfort via moraine and a gentle glacier,

Chayka Peak from the South

Description of the ascent via the route category 3B I. Approaches The approaches are similar to those to the peaks Kuba, Grimaou, and Yastreb. II. Ascent From the fork in the upper valley, the path goes left (in the direction of travel) and leads to the eastern ridge. The peak descends here with a wide rocky-snowy massif, featuring a 70-meter wall in its lower part. This wall is ascended directly from the ridge with piton belays (4 pitons). The rocks are of medium difficulty. The ascent continues on the right (in the direction of travel) side of the massif over easy to medium-difficulty rocks, leading to the ridge of the peak. The summit is not clearly defined; it is one of the highest craggy peaks on the ridge. The path then follows the ridge for 5×60 m. The rocks are of medium difficulty, with belays using rock features and occasional pitons (4 pitons). The descent to the saddle between Chayka and Yastreb is via one of the gullies, with rope installations (3×40 m). The further descent into the valley is over steep scree.