12. 1st peak of the Crown of Siam from the southwest, route 26 c/d, fig. 5.

The ascent can be made either from the base camp or from a bivouac on the left moraine of the White Pyramid's Eastern glacier. From the Four Pass, descend along a gentle snowfield to the right, under the cliffs of the western slopes of the southern ridge of the 1st peak of the Crown of Siam. Traverse the snowfield to reach broad ledges covered with fine scree and running parallel to the rocky ridge. Move along these ledges until they intersect with a shallow, snow-filled couloir. The latter is 1.5–2 m wide. Further movement:

• up to the right along the couloir, where after 12 m, convenient ledges begin, leading up to the ridge. This section is well-defined, as it is bounded on the left by difficult rocks.
• before reaching the ridge, turn left under a rock wall 10–12 m high, with outcrops of black rocks in its upper part.
• under this wall, pass to a gap in the ridge. From the gap, ascend rocks with good holds to a small platform at the level of the upper edge of the wall. Belay is piton. Above the wall, a narrow ledge goes left, allowing traverse of the rocks above the wall to a convenient exit up to a broad, gentle platform. Ascend a short, wide couloir leading to the pre-summit ridge, up to the right onto the ridge. Along the ridge to the summit is 200–250 m. In some sections of the ridge, alternating belays are required. Descent from the summit is by the ascent route. The ascent takes 7 hours.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, spur of the Gissar Ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — I tower of the Siama Crown, 3950 m, via the bastion from the east. 4. Difficulty category (assumed) — 3B 5. Route characteristics: a. height difference of the wall section — 260 m; b. total height difference — 400 m; c. average steepness of the wall section — 60°; d. length of sections:

13. 4th peak of the Crown of Siam from the Tsirk of Belaya Piramida, 16 km/tr. route, fig. 5

From the bivouac on the left moraine of the East glacier of Belaya Piramida under the slopes of the peaks of the Crown of Siam, approach the 4th peak. When bypassing the peaks of the Crown of Siam, one should be cautious, as the couloirs descending from the peak are rockfall-prone. The ascent to the peak goes via a snowy couloir leading to the ridge to the right of the peak. Then move along the ridge for 50–60 m until reaching slabs inclined to the southeast towards the Siam Valley. The slabs are climbed on the right with running belay. Then, via easy rocks, staying to the right of the ridge, reach the peak. The descent from the peak is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 5 hours. Fig. 5

Fig. 5

14. 4th peak of the Crown of Siam from the northeast, route 26 cat., fig. 5

The path from the base camp to the upper part of the couloir under Nishon pass is described in route 11. In the upper part, traverse left into a couloir that widens into the slopes. Reach the rocks, which are heavily destroyed shelves with large, standalone rock blocks. The slope, with a steepness of up to 40° in the upper part, leads under the walls of the main peak. To the right of it, separated by a sharp drop in the ridge, the second peak is visible. Before reaching the ridge, overcome a monolithic wall with a cleft, which is bypassed on the right between rocks, and then up through the cleft to the left. Insurance through ledges. Ascend to the ridge, the southeastern side of which consists of solid slabs. Follow the slabs to reach steep rock blocks forming the highest point of the 4th peak of the Crown of Siam. The ascent to the peak from the couloir takes 2 hours. The descent from the peak is along the ridge leading to the saddle between the 4th and 3rd peaks of the Crown of Siam, on its left side, emerging onto an extensive slab inclined towards the Siam Valley. Traverse it diagonally to reach an inclined inner corner. Insurance is alternating, with pitons. Organizing a sport descent is possible. After the inner corner, a second slab leads to the saddle between the peaks. Follow rocks of medium difficulty, transitioning into convenient shelves, to descend onto a snow patch. Below the slopes of the peaks of the Crown of Siam, reach Four pass. Return to the base camp via the pass.

15. Crown of Siam, traverse of 4 peaks from the south, route 36 cat. diff., fig. 5

The beginning of the traverse is described in route 12. From the 1st peak of the Crown of Siam, descend north along a ledge. Then follow rocks with steepness up to 55° and length of 80–90 m with good protrusions, which are more expedient to descend using a sport climbing technique down to a col. From the col, traverse a gendarme on the left along a narrow talus ledge to a ridge of black crumbly rocks. Ascend along the ridge for 20 m to a large flat boulder. 10 m from the boulder, a steep couloir descends to the northwest, which is crossed in its upper part to exit onto a ledge that veers left from the couloir. At the end of the ledge, ascend a steep short groove to the ridge of the 2nd peak of the Crown of Siam. Then ascend easy slabs with a slight steepness to the summit. The descent from the summit begins along the ridge to the left via a crack into a niche, from where a 40 m rope descent leads to a snowpatch that descends to the col between the 2nd and 3rd peaks. The ascent to the 4th peak is described in route 13. Descend from the summit east along the ridge, and then along ledges to the left to the Nishon pass. From the pass, descend west on snow and then, bypassing the peaks of the Crown of Siam, return to the Four Pass and to the base camp. The traverse takes 8–9 hours.

16. Crown of Siam, traverse of 4 peaks from the north, route 36 cat. diff., fig. 5

The beginning of the traverse is described in route 14. Ascend to the 3rd peak of the Crown of Siam slightly to the right of the ridge via a snowy couloir. Descend from the summit along an easy rocky ridge to the col between the 3rd and 2nd peaks.

Horseshoe of Sangalt Glacier

Ascent in this area is done from overnight camps: either on the left lateral moraine of Sangalt Glacier or from below Snezhny Pass. Pяти Pass connects Sangalt Glacier with Snezhny Pass. The approach along Sangalg valley to the camps takes 4–5 hours. Fig. 31.

Kruglaya

58. Kruglaya from the northwest, route 16 cat. diff., fig. 31 (Martynov V. with a group — 1953) From the bivouac on the moraine below Snezhny Pass, exit into the cirque towards the pass. The ascent to the summit is to the left, onto the ridge via a steep narrow couloir filled with snow; in its upper part, the couloir becomes the steepest. The summit is accessed via a steep, broken ridge. Many loose rocks. Traverse a short slope with large scree to reach a small snowfield. Follow the snow, bypassing individual rock outcrops, to approach the low rocks of the summit. The descent from the summit is to the east, on the right side of a narrow couloir. Rockfall hazard! Lower down, on the right side of the couloir, a terrace begins, follow it to its end. Descend 25 m down a steep chute to reach an inclined slab. Traverse the slab for 20 m to the next terrace, which leads to a steep chute. Cross the upper part of the chute, crest a low ridge, and follow black, easy rocks to reach Pяти Pass. From the pass, descend via snow to the bivouac. The ascent takes 5–6 hours.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: Rock.
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge, Varzobek area, Pily.
3. Peak: Krylya Tadzhikistana, its height is 3650 m, ascent route to the Central peak via the southern counterfort.
4. Expected difficulty category: 4A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 550 m.
   • Average steepness: 50°.
   • Length of sections: 1300 m, 2370 m, 3130 m, 430 m, 540 m, 6 m.
6. Pitons driven:

70

Description of the Traverse

3 peaks of "Wings of Tajikistan" 2B cat. sl. A group from the "Varzob" tourist camp crosses to the right bank of the "Varzob" river and moves upstream until the first stream (after Siama) flows into the "Varzob" river. The stream originates under the saddle between "Varzobskaya Pila" and the "Wings of Tajikistan" peak. The path goes up the stream:

• initially along the scree (on the right side of the path),
• then along the snow,
• the ascent to the saddle is again along the scree. Overnight stay is organized at convenient platforms. From the bivouac, the movement is westward along the ridge. Small gendarmes are bypassed on the left. The snowy ridge leads to the base of the eastern peak.
• The first gendarme is bypassed on the left
• The second is taken "head-on"

32. Kulai Jawonon from the Bolshoi Igizak Pass, category 16, fig. 16.

From the "Zelyonaya polyana" bivouac, follow the Igizak River along grassy slopes and scree, and higher up, snow, to ascend to the Bolshoi Igizak Pass. From the pass, head left towards the summit along the rocky ridge. The rocks are easy, and the movement is simultaneous. After 200 m:

• Bypass a minor summit on the right, from which the ridge turns southeast.
• Follow the snowy ridge to the first summit.
• The steep ascent up the snowfield is done with alternating belays. On the way to the Main summit from the first, two gaps in the ridge are encountered. It's better to ascend via the snow to the left of the ridge. The exit to the summit is on snow. The descent from the summit is along the western ridge to a gap, and then onto the Kulai Jawonon glacier plateau and down the valley to the bivouac. The ascent takes 7–8 hours. Fig. 16.

72

— Ascent to Kulay Dzhovanon Peak

via the NE ridge — Cat. 2B The ascent to the peak is made from the "Zelenaya Polyana" bivouac, located below Bivachnaya Peak. From the camp, one should go up along the stream flowing from the cirque of Khamsai, Ular, Khyrss, and Kulay Dzhovanon peaks. Bypassing a small lake, exit onto the firn fields of the Kulay Dzhovanon Glacier, and follow them to the visible saddle between Khyrss Peak and the northeastern ridge of Kulay Dzhovanon. The saddle is snowy, with breaks in the summer, and crevasses. The ascent to the saddle is relatively gentle, but the path is blocked by a bergschrund, which is overcome via snow bridges. From the saddle, the ridge is visible up to the first peak, sometimes called Maly Kulay Dzhovanon. The route from the saddle begins directly along the ridge without detours. Having traversed two rope lengths along it, approach low rock spires. It is impractical to bypass them due to significant height loss. The ascent between these spires via a narrow cleft leads to the northern side of the ridge. On the northern side of the ridge, there are many wide and narrow ledges that lead directly to the pre-summit rise, bypassing two complex gendarmes. When detouring at the top, there are short sections of relatively difficult climbing with sufficient outcrops for reliable belays. Upon reaching the pre-summit shoulder, the final meters involve overcoming a rock "plug." From the shoulder platform, the further path to the summit is visible. From the north, the summit tower drops with sheer walls to the glacier, while from the south, steep, rough slabs cut by cracks are visible.