ASCENT DOCUMENT

19

1. Climbing category — rock climbing
2. Climbing area, ridge — Main Caucasian Ridge from Kitlod pass to Gezevtsеg pass.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — traverse of Belaya Neznakomka (4200) — Chyornaya Neznakomka (4100) with ascent to the South Gendarme of Belaya Neznakomka via the southeast wall.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference 600–700 m; b) average steepness — 60°
6. Pitons hammered: — for belay, for intermediate rock anchors: 35 — ice screws: 6

84. Vakhushti via the Southwest Ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, Fig. 5, 18). Without reaching the Vakhushti pass (pic. 89), turn right and, bypassing rocky gendarmes on the right along the scree, ascend to the Southwest Ridge of Vakhushti. From here, ascend along the scree and easy, heavily damaged, snow-covered (cornices) rocks of the southwest ridge to the snowy, scree-covered southern shoulder. From the shoulder, there is a small descent along the wide, snow-covered (cornice) southwest ridge to a connecting ridge. Further, ascend along the easy, gently sloping, snow-covered (cornices) rocks of the southwest ridge to the summit of

10. Sandro Glavnaya via the Southern spur of the Eastern ridge (rock route, category 2A, Fig. 2, 4). From the base camp (point 1), traverse right along the southern grassy and talus slopes to reach a broad talus saddle of the Lekchumsky ridge and ascend to the saddle of the Southern spur of Sandro Glavnaya's Eastern ridge via easy, crumbling rocks. 1–1.5 hours from the base camp. Turn left onto the saddle and approach the Big Gendarme via simple, crumbling rocks on the right side of the Southern spur, featuring several easy 2–3-meter walls. Bypass the Gendarme on the left, descending through a narrow couloir and exiting onto a narrow gap via talus. From the gap, ascend 15–18 meters up steep rocks to the right (belay). Then, ascend simple rocks up and left to a broad gap beneath the ascent of the southern slope of Sandro Glavnaya's Eastern ridge. From the gap (crux, loose rocks, pitons), ascend 12–15 meters up the rocks of the ascent to a ledge beneath a vertical wall. Traverse right along the ledge (belay) to bypass the wall, then ascend easy rocks and talus to reach a broad saddle between Sandro and SamertsKhle peaks (large cairn). 2–2.5 hours from the base camp.

10. Тихтинген

2. 5A. Route 4A cat. diff. Descent path V. Yu. Tikhtenko 4611 m July 28 Tikhtengen (10) South Route 3 gr. V. Road (76)

10ro boro sub

V. Chernaya Neznakomka 4100 2 Sept. 4040 m 1 Sept. 3460 m 2800 m 0

Route Description — Ascending Gerta-Bashi Peak via the Northwest Ridge — Category III difficulty.

From the overnight stay behind the moraine, ascend via grassy slopes and scree, bypassing the icefall of the Ullu-Auz glacier, to the middle snow plateau of the glacier, and along it to the left, under the right part of the Northwest ridge of Gerta-Bashi peak. From the glacier, ascend up a snowy slope and heavily broken simple rocks to the right of a small snowy couloir; after 40–50 m, move left, then 25–30 m through a rocky couloir to a ridge. Follow the ridge's moderately difficult rocks 90–120 m upwards (loose rocks!), then 60–70 m up steep slabs to beneath a vertical wall. Bypass the wall on the right via an 8–10-meter ledge. From the ledge:

• ascend 45–50 m up heavily broken rocks;
• then 25–30 m along an inclined slab under a large boulder on the ridge. From the boulder:
• ascend rightwards up a small snowy slope 30–35 m via slabs;
• then 35–40 m up a steep couloir (loose rocks) to ascend to the ridge's saddle between sharp gendarmes. From the saddle, move right. Bypass the sharp gendarme along the snowy plateau on the left; then follow a wide, simple horizontal ridge to reach a gap (cairn!).

2. Pik XX syezda KPSS

А ночевки • kontr. tur

Report on the First Ascent to the Peak 3428 m via the Northwest Ridge, Presumably Category 1B, by the Team of the "Freeline" Multidisciplinary Mountaineering Club from Essentuki, July 14-15, 2018

Climbing Report Form