Ascent to the top of Znachkist
from the Siamy circus — 2A cat. dif.
The approach to the summit from the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Siamy River passes along the right-hand (in the direction of travel) lateral moraine to the terminal moraine of the glacial circus. The glacier is now absent. The ascent to the moraine and movement along the moraine occurs along a stream, leading to the foot of the summit.
The ascent to the summit goes along a wide snow couloir descending from the saddle (Nishon pass between the IV peak of the Siamy Crown and the Znachkist peak). It is recommended to pass through early in the morning and under the cover of the rocks on the left side of the couloir, as stonefall is possible.
In the middle part of the couloir: transition to the right, movement along the talus, snow is possible.
In the upper part, the couloir opens widely into the slope. The slope is composed of inclined smooth slabs, partially covered with talus. The ascent from the snowfield to the ridge takes 2–2.5 hours.
To reach the saddle, go left of the first pointed gendarme. Bypassing it on the left and not approaching the second gendarme on this saddle, traverse the slope to the left along the snow. Along the slope, approach a barely noticeable couloir descending from the ridge of the Znachkist peak.
The ascent to the ridge goes along the left side of the couloir for 25–30 m and leads to an inclined slab. Traversing it to the right, ascend to the ridge. The further path along the ridge is along rocks of medium difficulty. The length of the section is 80–90 m. The summit is not characteristically pronounced. The ascent from the pass to the summit takes about 1 hour.
The descent from the summit goes immediately north along the ridge for 8–10 minutes, and then, turning sharply to the west, descend along the snowfield into the circus of the Eastern glacier of the White Pyramid for 300 m. Then, turn sharply to the south, approach the ridge descending from the White Pyramid, and cross it, not reaching a small lake. Then, below the slopes of the peaks of the Siamy Crown, pass under the Four pass and ascend to it. From the Four pass, descend to the base camp.
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants — 6 people
- Initial bivouac — base camp on Siamy
- Departure time — no later than 5:00.
- Equipment per group (per person): rock pitons — 5 pcs., hammers — 2 pcs., carabiners — 5 pcs., main ropes — 3 × 30 m.
Time estimate
| Approach to the summit | — 1.5 h |
|---|---|
| Ascent to the Nishon pass | — 2.5 h |
| Ascent to the summit | — 1 h |
| Descent from the summit to the Four pass | — 2.5 h |
| Descent from the Four pass to the base camp |
Total 8.5 h
The first ascent was made in the 50s. The composition of the group that made the first ascent is not established.
Compiled by: Roy (Sogrin)
ZNACHKIST from the east (from the base camp)
