Description

Ascent to the Western peak of Varzob Saw from the east via route 2A cat. difficulty The Western peak of Varzob Saw (3830 m above sea level) is climbed by mountaineers during the traverse of the entire Varzob Saw via route 4B cat. difficulty. At the same time, climbers ascend to the peak via the western wall and descend to the east, continuing the traverse. Until now, the ascent route to the peak from the east has not been classified, although it corresponds to 2A cat. difficulty and can be recommended for badge holders and athletes. Approaches for the described ascent are made via the same paths as for the traverse of Varzob Saw from W to E via route 3B cat. difficulty, i.e., via the stream and then to the saddle between the Western peak and the main ridge. The exit to the saddle is made in its right part (not directly under the wall of the main ridge) via rough rocks with pronounced ledges, gutters, etc. On the saddle:

• There are areas for setting up two tents.
• Snow is present almost all year round - on the northern side. Movement along the saddle to the Western peak:

Description

Ascent to the Western peak of Varzob Saw from the east via the 2A category route The Western peak of Varzob Saw (3830 m above sea level) is typically climbed by mountaineers during the traverse of the entire Varzob Saw via the 4B category route. In doing so, climbers ascend the peak via the western wall and descend to the east to continue the traverse. Until now, the ascent route to the peak from the east has not been classified, although it corresponds to the 2A category and can be recommended for badge holders and ranked climbers. The approach for this ascent is made via the same paths as for the Varzob Saw traverse from W to E: via the 3B category route, i.e., along the stream and then to the saddle between the Western peak and the main ridge. The ascent to the saddle is made on its right side (but not directly under the wall of the main ridge) via rough rocks with pronounced ledges, grooves, etc. There are areas on the saddle suitable for setting up two tents, and snow is present almost year-round on the northern side. Movement along the saddle towards the Western peak occurs:

• initially along the ledges on the northern side of the ridge,
• then, closer to the Western peak, on the southern side (belaying is mandatory). The ascent to the peak is made via short wall sections (1–1.5 m) alternating with ledges. The route here is easily chosen and passes:

Description of the Climbing Route through the Center of the Western Peak

① Numbering of the sections on the Varzob Saw wall (first ascent)

Control Cairns

to the Western peak, category 4A The approach to the start of the route is similar to the approach to the category 4B traverse route, ascending the ridge along the same wall. Overnight stay on the saddle below the wall.

SECTION I.

Through the largest right couloir with scree, exiting onto the saddle, we reach its upper end, bounded by sheer walls. To the left, a small waterfall flows in spring and early summer. Simultaneous movement, the route length is approximately 100 m. At the end, the group ropes up.

SECTION 2.

The start of the route is along the left (in the direction of travel) counterfort of the waterfall. The lower part with a negative slope is traversed with the help of a team member standing on their shoulders.

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge (5.2.19)
2. Peak: Western peak of Varzob Saw (via the center of the western wall), 3830 m
3. Difficulty category: 3B (previously 4A)
4. Route type: rock climbing
5. Elevation gain: 350 m Route length: 610 m including:

• sections of 4th difficulty category — 60 m
• sections of 3B difficulty category — 130 m

Climbing class — rock climbing
Region — Gissar Range, Varzobskoy Pily area Peak, height, route — North-Eastern peak of Varzobskoy Pily via the chimney of the southern wall Suggested difficulty category — 4B Route characteristics:

• Height difference of the wall section — 500 m
• Total height difference — 600 m
• Average steepness of the wall section — 75°
• Number of rock pitons driven — 20 pcs.
• Number of protection placements — 79 pcs.

47. Varzobskaya Pila ridge traverse (all summits except Western summit), category 3B route, fig. 26.

From the bivouac by the lake, ascend into the upper reaches of the stream and to the right up grassy slopes to the col between the Western summit and the main ridge of Varzobskaya Pila. In the upper part, the ascent to the col goes across rocks via ledges and gullies exiting onto the right part of the col. The ascent takes 1.5–2 hours. From the col, to the right below the gendarme wall. Ascend the gendarme on its right side for 60 m. Piton belay. Follow an easy, gently-sloping, stepped ridge to the top of the gendarme. Cairn. Descend from the gendarme down a steep 40-m gully onto the col. Possible snow cornices. The next gendarme is sharp-topped, red-colored. Follow the ridge upwards for 30–40 m to a talus-covered area from which, on the right, bypass the gendarme ridge along a wide ledge. The ledge is 10–15 m below the ridge of the gendarme. From the ledge, cross a small gendarme, and traverse a degraded ridge to the next col. To the next gendarme, ascend on the right up a slab with a ledge. The top of the gendarme is a gently sloping ridge. Descend to the col via a gully or ledges. Fig. 26. To ascend to the summit — the highest point of the ridge — follow moderately difficult rocks. To descend from the summit, follow the degraded ridge. Bypass gendarmes on the left by descending steeply down a gully on the north side and then continue along ledges and moderately difficult rocks on the northern slope of the ridge. Exit onto the ridge near a tall gendarme which will be followed by a sharp depression in the ridge. Down the degraded ridge to the east, bypassing gendarmes on the left. From the last gendarme, lower by rope and then descend down and left across a steep snowpatch leaving the ridge.

PIK GEOLOGOV 3B DIFFICULTY LEVEL

FROM THE SOUTHEAST Peak Geologov is located in the Maykura area at the junction of three ridges. It is at the end of the Maykura glacier above the mine and is clearly visible from there. The height is about 4200 m. Approach: You need to drive by car to the end of the road. Then, after walking for 15-20 minutes across the moraine, we reach the snow-ice slopes of the glacier and approach the beginning of the steep ascent to the ridge leading from the summit. We camp on the glacier. The time taken for the approach is 1.5-2 hours. From the campsite, we ascend to the ridge via any snowy gap in the rocks and move to the right to reach the summit. From the last gendarme on the ridge, the start of the route is clearly visible, beginning with an ascent to the western spur of the ridge. Section R1: We approach the start of a clearly visible steep ledge traversing the ridge from right to left via a snowy slope (possibly icy in autumn). The length of this section is 150 m, with a steepness of 20°. Tie in before reaching the rocks and bergschrund. Section R2: Ascend to the ledge, which does not reach the snow, and move to the right onto the rocks from its beginning. We circumvent a patch of snow (4-5 m) above via the ledge with a steepness of 55-60° and a width of 50-60 cm, and reach the first belay point (60 m) on a good platform. The protection is via pitons (1-2) and rock features. The rocks are of moderate difficulty. Section R3: Move directly along the ridge, veering to the right, to reach a connecting ridge under the start of a clearly visible negative wall on the ridge. The movement is alternating, with protection via rock features, and the length is 60 m.

Ascent to the summit — DVUZUBKA from the Ivizak peak — 1B category of difficulty. The ascent to the summit is made from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, located under the Bivachnaya peak. From the camp, you should:

• go up along the Igizak River
• first along grassy slopes and scree
• then, after 40–50 minutes of movement, cross to the left bank of the river
• begin the ascent up the steep western slope of the valley The slope has rock outcrops. Further ascent on snow leads to the Big Igizak cirque and the Dvuzybka on the plateau. Between the peaks of Bolshoy Igizak and Dvuzybka, there is an unnamed peak. The ascent to Dvuzybka should be made from the saddle between the unnamed peak (Dvuzybka pass). The exit to the pass is on snow. From the pass:
• to the right along the scree,
• then along easy rocks, ascend along the ridge. Then the ridge narrows, and small walls up to 2 m appear. Insurance is simultaneous. Before the summit, you should descend into a shallow depression to the right along a ledge, as the ridge has steep walls to the left. The ascent to the summit from the saddle is 5 m along moderately difficult rocks.

Route Description

First Ascent of Peak Yastreb (Takob district of the Gissar Ridge) Dushanbe. 1963

Description of the Peak and its Location

Peak Yastreb is located in one of the southern mountain spurs of the Gissar Ridge system, known as the Sanginavishta mountains. The most convenient approaches to the peak are from the tributaries of the Takob River — Taykutal and Drishint.

• Taykutal
• Drishint Peak Yastreb is the highest peak in the Takob district. Its height is approximately 4300 m. The peak rises sharply among the surrounding peaks and has a characteristic silhouette with very steep rocky slopes and a double summit, which is why the local population calls it "Dushokha," meaning "two-horned."

10. Znachokist from the White Pyramid circus, route 16 cat. diff., fig. 5.

From the bivouac on the left moraine of the White Pyramid's East Glacier, under the slopes of the Siama Crown peaks, approach the Nishon pass — between the peaks IV of the Siama Crown and Znachokist. The approach takes about an hour. When traversing all the peaks of the Siama Crown, be cautious as the couloirs descending from the peak are rockfall-prone. When ascending to the Nishon pass, exit to the left of the first sharp gendarme. Bypassing it on the left and not reaching the second gendarme on this ridge, traverse the slope to the left on the snow. Approach the couloir descending from the peak's ridge along the slope. Ascend the ridge on the left side of the couloir for 25–30 m and then along the inclined slab. Ascend to the peak along the simple rock on the ridge. The peak is not characteristically pronounced. The ascent from the pass to the peak takes about an hour. The descent from the peak is north along the ridge. After 8–10 minutes, turn sharply west and descend along the snow patch into the White Pyramid's East Glacier circus. Then turn south and exit to the moraine to the bivouac under the slopes of the Siama Crown peaks. The ascent takes 5 hours.