The North Face of Bolshoy Igizak — Cat. 4A
Section R1
Movement along a snow-ice couloir (steepness up to 35° at the end) on the right side (in the direction of travel) straight up to the beginning of the sheer walls of Igizak. At this point, there is the last section where one can transition from snow to rocks, overcoming a 2-meter wall and a small bergschrund (in the spring, the wall may be covered with snow). We emerge onto a small platform at the base of a low (3 m) internal corner with an overhang. The length of the section from the foot is 100 m, movement is simultaneous.
Section R2
The corner is traversed using artificial support points (one ice screw and one rock piton) with an exit onto not very steep (45°) rocks. The rocks are weathered granite, smoothed, and are climbed on friction straight up with an exit onto a small platform and a ledge at the foot of sheer rocks. The route length is 60 m. Climbing is not difficult. 2-3 pitons (one ice screw).
Section R3
Along an inclined ledge 3-4 m long, we traverse to the right towards a wall (2 m) and, having passed it, emerge onto an inclined small platform. Descending from it 3-4 m, we come out onto a horizontal wide ledge. The route length is 20 m. The rocks are simple, one piton.
Section R4
Along the ledge, we traverse 20 m to the right simultaneously towards the beginning of a belt of steep (60-70°) highly smoothed rocks. Having climbed the rocks 5-6 m, we emerge onto a series of simple, grass-covered ledges, along which we reach the base of an internal corner clearly visible from below. The length of the section is 60 m, movement is to the right and up, one rock piton.
Section R5
The internal corner with a steepness of 80°, having smooth edges and a small gap, can only be climbed using artificial support points, as there are no holds or cracks. Therefore, the movement is not along the corner, but along the right counterfort of the corner, along the right chimney out of the two available. The route length is 6 m. The chimney is sheer, with highly smoothed edges and is not deep. It is climbed first on a teammate's shoulders, then on tension. Climbing is complex, there are no places for pitons. We emerge onto its right side, where there is a small outcrop of highly weathered granite, behind which belay is organized, and a pendulum. Straight up - smoothed steep rocks, we move to the left. With a pendulum to the left 2-3 m, we emerge onto a narrow 5-6 cm indistinctly expressed ledge. Having passed along it 3-4 m, we move to the right upwards. The rocks are steep (up to 70°), but have good holds. We emerge onto a small platform where participants are received. At the beginning and end of the route, there are control cairns. Climbing is complex, 2-3 pitons, steepness 70°. From here, a parallel route along the wall along the R3 route is visible.
Section R6
Along a wide ledge, 30 m traverse to the right. Movement is simultaneous, we approach an indistinctly expressed chimney with a large plug.
Section R7
The chimney with a plug (5 m) - is climbed head-on with an exit to the right onto the plug. Climbing is complex, 1 piton. On the plug, there is a large platform.
Section R8
The gully with a steepness of 60-70°. Climbing is simple - good holds. It is climbed without pitons with an exit onto a small platform of the counterfort. The length of the section is 30 m.
Section R9
Along easy rocks, we emerge one rope length up to the left onto the ridge of the summit. Along easy rocks to the summit.
Descent is along route 1B. The first ascent was made on "___" October 1964 by a group consisting of:
- Tkachyov V. K.
- Lavrushin V. I.
- Shramko A. I.
Necessary equipment: Ropes 60 m long, ladder with two steps, Rock pitons and one ice screw - 5-6 pcs. Boots - preferably "Vibram". Compiled by: (Tkachyov V.)
Bolshoy Igizak from the north
Bolshoy Igizak from the north
Bolshoy Igizak. Route through the crevice of the north wall
Bolshoy Igizak from the north